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Copyright,    1906,   by 
THE    NEW    YORK    CO-OPERATIVE    SOCIETY 

NEW    YORK 


OUR  JOURNEY    TO    JAPAN 


OUR  Start  is  made  on  February  22d  in  the  early 
forenoon.  The  grandchildren,  Carola,  Fred- 
erick, Gerald,  Baby  Paul,  Dorothy  (John 
having  been  left  at  home),  all  have  come  to  965  Fifth 
Avenue  to  bid  good-by  to  grandparents.  A  bright, 
sunny  morning,  and  we  start  from  home  in  the  finest 
of  spirits,  accompanied,  as  traveling  companion,  by 
our  nephew,  Ernst  H.  Schiflf.  At  the  Twenty-third 
Street  ferry  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  we  meet 
our  other  traveling  companions,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Alfred 
Heidelbach,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Henry  Budge,  and  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Siegmund  Neustadt.  Aside  from  our  chil- 
dren, and  the  family,  we  find  a  bevy  of  friends  assem- 
bled at  the  ferry,  who  have  come  to  wish  us  Godspeed, 
most  of  these  accompanying  us  to  Jersey  City,  where 
a  special  train  furnished  by  the  Union  Pacific  Rail- 
road, consisting  of  two  private  cars,  baggage  and 
officers'  car,  is  waiting  to  take  us  on  board  for  our 
journey  across  the  continent.     The  start  is   made   at 


eleven  o'clock,  and  with  the  speed  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Limited  trains  we  proceed  through  the  Eastern  States 
to  Pittsburg,  which  we  reach  in  the  evening,  proceed- 
ing thence  promptly  to  Chicago,  and  reaching  Chi- 
cago at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  February  23d. 
We  do  not  tarry,  but  proceed,  after  taking  on  a  dining 
car,  around  the  town  and  over  the  Chicago  &  North- 
western Railroad.  Our  journey  becomes  interrupted 
at  Sterling,  111.,  where  we  find  the  track  broken  in 
two  by  an  ice  gorge.  After  six  hours'  delay,  the 
prompt  repair  of  the  railroad  being  found  impractica- 
ble, our  train  is  switched  to  the  tracks  of  the  Illinois 
Railroad,  over  which  we  proceed  to  Omaha,  reaching 
there  in  the  early  morning  of  February  24th.  Here 
we  are  joined  by  Mr.  Mohler,  Vice-President  of  the 
Union  Pacific  Railroad,  who  takes  our  party  in  charge 
to  accompany  us  over  his  line.  In  rapid  flight  we 
hasten  westward.  The  country  at  this  time  of  the 
year  ofifers  little  of  interest — only  barren  fields  and 
snow-covered  mountains.  Without  any  incident  we 
reach  Salt  Lake  City  on  Sunday,  February  25th,  at 
noon,  where  we  are  received  by  Mr.  Bancroft,  Vice- 
President  of  the  Oregon  Short  Line  Railroad,  and 
taken  to  the  Knutsford  Hotel  for  a  day's  stay  in  the 


city  of  the  Mormons.  Salt  Lake  City  is  a  fine  inland 
town,  having  been  laid  out  with  considerable  foresight 
by  Brigham  Young,  head  of  the  Mormon  Church — 
its  founder.  The  city  has  little  of  particular  note  or 
attraction  except  the  Tabernacle  and  Temple,  the 
latter  not  accessible  to  those  not  belonging  to  the 
Mormon  Church.  We  visit,  however,  the  Tabernacle 
on  Sunday  afternoon  during  service,  which  a  vast 
mass  of  people  is  attending,  the  service  being  rather 
monotonous.  Next  morning,  Monday,  February  26th, 
a  private  recital  at  the  Tabernacle  is  arranged  for  our 
party  through  the  good  offices  of  Rabbi  Freund,  which 
we  enjoy  greatly  and  at  the  conclusion  of  which  we 
proceed  direct  to  the  station  and  leave  Salt  Lake  City 
at  noon  over  the  San  Pedro,  Los  Angeles  &  Salt  Lake 
Railroad,  the  new  short  line  to  southern  California, 
recently  completed.  Its  general  manager,  Mr.  Wells 
(with  his  wife),  joins  our  party  to  see  us  safely  over 
the  line.  We  proceed  along  the  Salt  Lake,  take  note 
of  a  number  of  new  large  smelters  in  course  of  con- 
struction, and  after  a  quiet  evening  we  retire  amid 
wintry  scenery,  to  rise  on  Tuesday,  February  27th, 
greeted  by  the  early  summer  beauty  of  southern 
California.     The  railroad  traverses  blooming  orange 


groves,  the  trees  heavily  laden  with  the  beautiful 
golden  fruit,  and  before  long  we  reach  Los  Angeles 
in  the  early  forenoon.  Here  we  do  not  stop  except 
to  change  engines  and  to  have  attached  to  our  train  the 
car  of  Mr.  Calvin,  Vice-President  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad,  who,  with  other  officials  of  his  com- 
pany, has  come  down  from  San  Francisco  to  bid  us 
welcome  into  his  territory  and  to  accompany  us  to 
Santa  Barbara,  where  we  arrive  during  the  afternoon 
of  the  same  day  and  where  we  purpose  to  rest  several 
days.  A  short  walk  brings  us  from  the  Southern 
Pacific  station  to  the  Potter  Hotel,  where  quarters 
have  been  reserved  for  us.  The  Potter  is  a  new  cara- 
vansary of  enormous  size,  accommodating  something 
like  1,500  people,  the  hotel  being  quite  full  at  this 
season;  it  is  kept  on  the  so-called  American  plan,  and 
we  are  fairly  well  provided  for  there.  The  rooms 
assigned  to  us  are  light  and  airy,  very  plain  in  their 
appointments.  The  fare  at  the  hotel,  while  plentiful, 
is  not  of  a  high  order,  but  we  have  been  so  greatly 
spoiled  by  the  splendid  dining  arrangements  which 
had  been  made  for  us  in  our  special  train  across  the 
continent,  that  perhaps  our  judgment  as  to  hotel  food 
has  become  somewhat  biased.     We  pass  the  evening 


quietly  at  the  hotel,  meeting  a  number  of  acquaint- 
ances, among  others  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gordon,  of  London, 
who  already  had  been  to  our  house  in  New  York  and 
who  inform  us  that  they  are  likewise  bound  for  Japan 
on  the  same  steamer  we  purpose  taking.  The  next 
morning,  Wednesday,  February  28th,  we  set  out  in 
carriages  to  explore  the  beauties  of  the  surroundings 
of  Santa  Barbara,  taking  a  drive  to  Monte  Cito  and 
Miramare — two  most  attractive  villa  settlements — and 
return  to  the  hotel  for  luncheon.  In  the  afternoon, 
accompanied  by  the  ladies,  we  take  a  walk  through 
the  town,  which  in  itself  offers  little  of  interest,  but 
we  are  all  pleased  to  get  some  exercise,  which,  after  the 
several  days  on  the  railroad  cars,  we  all  are  in  need 
of.  The  evening  is  passed  quietly  in  the  lobby  of  the 
hotel.  Next  day,  Thursday,  March  ist,  we  again  uti- 
lize the  forenoon  for  driving,  this  time  into  the  hills 
surrounding  Santa  Barbara,  which  for  beauty  of  views 
challenge  comparison.  Indeed,  some  of  our  party  are 
of  the  opinion  that  the  shores  of  Southern  Italy,  from 
Sorrento  to  Amalfi,  so  celebrated  for  their  great  scenic 
beauty,  do  not  excel  the  charming  vistas  of  this  moun- 
tain drive.  We  return  to  the  hotel  after  a  three  hours' 
outing,  enthused  by  the  impressions  we  received,  and 


unanimously  vote  Santa  Barbara  "  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  spots  on  earth."  In  the  afternoon  an  excur- 
sion to  Santa  Barbara  Mission,  about  two  miles  dis- 
tant, is  undertaken,  the  men  on  foot,  the  ladies  taking 
the  very  comfortable  trolley  car.  Santa  Barbara  Mis- 
sion, with  its  church  and  little  cemetery,  is  one  of  the 
many  similar  missions  which  were  planted  by  the 
Spaniards  along  the  southern  California  coast  at  the 
time  of  their  conquest  of  the  country,  and  like  most  of 
these  Missions  offers  little  else  than  historic  interest. 
The  evening  is  again  spent  quietly  at  the  hotel.  The 
following  morning,  Friday,  March  2d,  we  are  again 
ready  for  a  drive,  this  time  the  Cliff  drive  being  chosen. 
This  stretches  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  and  while 
very  charming,  does  not  offer  anything  of  special  in- 
terest to  dwell  upon.  We  are  gone  some  two  hours 
and  a  half  and  return  to  the  hotel  in  time  for  luncheon. 
In  the  afternoon  we  repair  to  the  Country  Club  for 
tea.  The  little  club,  about  two  miles  distant,  is  charm- 
ingly situated,  overlooking  the  sea.  The  ladies  re- 
turn to  the  hotel  by  carriage,  while  Budge,  Neu- 
stadt,  and  I  have  a  fine  walk  along  the  asphalted 
boulevard,  which  stretches  along  the  ocean  almost  the 
entire  distance  from  the  Country  Club  to  the  town. 


Once  more  the  evening  is  spent  at  the  hotel,  in  con- 
versation with  a  number  of  Eastern  friends,  who  have 
arrived  during  the  day.  Saturday,  March  3d,  be- 
comes a  more  or  less  enforced  day  of  rest.  The  weather 
threatening  rain,  we  take  a  short  walk  only  in  the 
morning,  and  we  have  scarcely  returned  to  the  hotel 
before  the  downpour  comes  on  in  considerable  vol- 
ume, so  that  we  are  compelled  to  stay  indoors  the 
balance  of  the  day.  Having  arranged  to  depart  the 
next  morning,  we  go  on  board  of  our  train  late  Sat- 
urday evening,  all  glad  to  be  back  again  in  our 
palatial  moving  quarters,  which  no  hotel  can  sur- 
pass. Early  the  following  morning  (Sunday,  March 
4th)  our  train  starts  northward  for  San  Francisco.  It 
is  a  most  beautiful  ride  along  the  Californian  coast 
between  Santa  Barbara  and  San  Francisco,  a  distance 
of  about  375  miles.  First  ascending  the  St.  Mar- 
guerita  Mountains,  a  fine  piece  of  engineering,  the 
railroad  keeps  continually  in  sight  of  the  ocean,  tra- 
versing a  number  of  the  most  lovely  valleys,  passing 
Mount  Hamilton,  topped  by  the  Lick  Observatory, 
and  entering  the  magnificent  Santa  Clara  Valley, 
which  it  follows  almost  its  entire  length  before  San 
Francisco  is  reached.     We  arrive  at  the  latter  place 


at  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  all  feel  rather 
sorry  to  abandon  the  comfortable  cars,  in  which  we 
have  traveled  almost  4,000  miles  between  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacific.  All  are  full  of  appreciation  of  the  manner 
in  which  Mr.  Hudson,  the  Assistant  Superintendent 
of  the  Dining-room  service  of  the  Union  Pacific  Rail- 
road, who  accompanied  us  from  New  York  to  look 
after  our  comfort,  has  discharged  every  detail  of  this 
duty  which  had  been  assigned  to  him.  Quarters  for 
our  party  at  San  Francisco  having  been  engaged  at  the 
St.  Francis  Hotel,  we  repair  there  and  find  most  com- 
fortable rooms  ready  for  our  reception.  The  evening 
is  well  advanced  before  the  very  considerable  load  of 
baggage  of  the  entire  party  arrives  from  the  station 
and  is  properly  distributed  in  the  divers  apartments, 
so  dinner  time  has  come  before  we  are  ready  for  the 
evening  meal.  We  dine  at  the  hotel,  and  as  the  restau- 
rant is  to  our  liking,  we  then  and  there  conclude  not 
to  accept  invitations  during  the  few  days  of  our  stay 
in  San  Francisco.  After  dinner  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Philip 
Lilienthal  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jesse  Lilienthal  come  to 
welcome  us,  and  the  evening  passes  rapidly  in  pleasant 
conversation.  Our  rooms  become  filled  with  beautiful 
flowers  sent  by  friends,  and  remain  so  during  our  entire 


stay,  enabling  us  to  enjoy  the  nice  bright  flowers  in 
which  San  Francisco  excels.  After  a  good  night's  rest 
we  plan  (Monday,  March  5th)  to  see  to  advantage  the 
sights  that  San  Francisco  ofifers;  but  in  this  we  are  un- 
fortunately interrupted  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Alfred  Hei- 
delbach,  who  inform  us  of  their  decision  to  return 
to  Paris.  It  appears  Mrs.  Heidelbach's  uncle,  Mr. 
Rubens,  of  Paris,  had  been  suddenly  taken  ill,  and 
fearing  his  end  to  be  near,  expressed  the  desire  that 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Heidelbach  do  not  proceed  further,  but 
rather  return,  to  meet  him  again  before  his  end.  Thus 
these  friends  have  no  choice  but  to  abandon  their  cher- 
ished wish  to  come  with  us  to  Japan  and  are  compelled 
to  arrange  to  return.  They  decide  to  leave  for  New 
York  on  March  7th,  with  the  intention  of  sailing  from 
there  on  March  15th.  All  of  this  is  much  of  a  dis- 
appointment to  every  one  of  our  party,  for  we  all  have 
become  much  attached  to  these  friends,  who  had 
proved  most  congenial  traveling  companions.  In  a 
desire  to  spend  the  two  days  which  remained  before 
the  Heidelbachs'  departure  to  best  advantage,  we  ar- 
range for  automobiles,  immediately  after  luncheon,  to 
visit  the  Presidio  (the  United  States  military  settle- 
ment), the  Golden  Gate   (San  Francisco's  renowned 


and  picturesque  harbor  entrance),  the  Golden  Gate 
Park,  and  the  Cliff  House,  all  of  which  Mother  and 
I  had  already  seen  on  two  previous  visits  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  which  prove  of  renewed  interest.  The 
weather  is  glorious,  and  Nature,  yet  so  retarded  at  this 
season  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  is  already  springlike,  the 
atmosphere  being  very  exhilarating.  We  enjoy  three 
hours  of  most  refreshing  outing  and  return  to  the  hotel 
in  high  spirits.  Dinner  is  again  taken  at  the  hotel  at 
a  late  hour,  and  after  a  short  stay  in  the  lobby  of  the 
hotel,  where  the  guests  lounge  in  the  evening,  we  re- 
tire to  our  rooms  and  are  soon  in  Morpheus's  arms. 
Tuesday  morning,  March  6th,  is  utilized  by  the  ladies 
for  some  shopping,  by  the  men  to  visit  friends,  my 
own  visits  being  to  the  officials  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Company,  to  Mr.  Lilienthal  at  the  Anglo-Californian 
Bank,  to  Mr.  Hellman  at  the  Wells-Fargo  Nevada 
National  Bank,  and  to  the  Yokohama  Specie  Bank. 
The  entire  party  then  takes  luncheon  under  the  guid- 
ance of  Major  Rathbone  at  Finkfan's  Restaurant, 
which  proves  very  enjoyable.  In  the  afternoon  all 
take  the  trolley  cars  for  the  Golden  Gate  Park — desir- 
ing to  enjoy  this  beautiful  bit  of  landscape  gardening 
by  exploring  it  on  foot — partake  of  tea  in  the  park  in 


Japanese  style  at  the  very  nice  Japanese  Garden,  and 
return  to  the  hotel  toward  evening.  Once  more  we 
take  dinner  among  ourselves  at  the  hotel  restaurant,  and 
after  dinner  receive  a  visit  from  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hell- 
man,  Sr.,  as  well  as  from  their  son  and  his  wife,  who 
remain  until  late.  Next  morning  (Wednesday,  March 
7th)  brings  us,  to  our  great  chagrin,  the  parting  from 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Heidelbach,  whom  we  take  to  the  ferry 
for  a  last  adieu  before  they  retrace  their  steps  east- 
ward. Thus  our  party  becomes  reduced  from  nine  to 
seven,  but  we  conclude  that  we  must  not  permit  this 
to  interfere  with  the  good  spirits  with  which  we  had 
set  out  and  which  so  far  have  been  so  well  maintained. 
The  party  separates  for  luncheon,  we  ourselves  taking 
our  midday  meal  at  Delmonico's,  rather  a  second-class 
restaurant.  In  the  afternoon  Mother  and  I  set  out  to 
make  a  few  purchases  and  then  visit  Keith's  Studio, 
where  we  look  at  a  number  of  the  fine  landscape  paint- 
ings which  have  made  this  artist  celebrated,  and  we 
decide  upon  the  purchase  of  an  attractive,  not  entirely 
completed  canvas,  which  we  order  to  be  shipped,  upon 
completion,  to  our  country  home  at  Seabright,  where 
we  hope  to  place  it  to  good  advantage.  Leaving 
Keith's  Studio  we  make  a  few  calls  and  then  go  for 


tea  to  Mrs.  Phil  Lilienthal's  residence,  where  we  meet 
quite  an  assemblage  of  ladies,  who  have  come  to  greet 
the  ladies  of  our  party.  For  the  evening  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Jesse  Lilienthal,  as  well  as  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Phil  Lilien- 
thal,  join  us  at  the  hotel  at  a  farewell  dinner.  This 
proves  quite  a  nice  little  afifair  and  we  remain  together 
until  a  late  hour.  The  next  day  (Thursday,  March 
8th)  is  sailing  day  for  Japan.  We  have  to  bestir  our- 
selves early,  so  that  the  considerable  baggage  can  be 
taken  in  good  time  to  the  steamer,  which  is  to  depart 
at  one  o'clock.  Just  as  we  are  about  to  leave  the  hotel, 
shortly  after  eleven  o'clock,  my  relative,  Robert  Nie- 
derhofheim,  comes  into  the  hotel  lobby,  having  just 
arrived  from  Japan.  As  we  have  no  time  to  spare,  we 
ask  him  to  accompany  us  to  the  steamer,  which  he  does. 
It  is  rather  a  novel  incident:  Niederhofheim  crossing 
our  path  coming  from  the  far  Orient,  whither  we  are 
bound,  to  return  to  the  East,  from  where  we  have  just 
come.  On  board  the  S.S.  "Manchuria  "  all  is  life  and 
bustle.  Our  staterooms  are  filled  with  flowers,  fruits, 
and  other  gifts,  not  only  from  San  Francisco  friends, 
but  also  from  friends  in  New  York,  some  twenty  of 
our  friends  having  thus  remembered  us,  which  much 
touches  us;  moreover,  any  number  of  telegrams  reach 


us,  bidding  us  adieu  and  Godspeed  upon  our  long 
journey.  The  "  Manchuria  "  leaves  punctually  at  one 
o'clock,  and  before  we  are  aware  of  it  we  pass  through 
the  Golden  Gate  on  our  way  to  the  Far  East.  Thus 
our  long-cherished  plan  to  visit  Japan,  which  at  times 
looked  something  like  a  chimera,  has  really  entered 
upon  its  realization.  Starting,  as  already  said,  at  one 
o'clock,  we  soon  sit  down  to  our  first  meal  on  board  of 
the  "  Manchuria."  We  have  a  table  to  ourselves  for 
the  party,  the  chief  steward  and  his  assistant  placing 
themselves  at  our  disposal  for  anything  we  desire. 
The  food  is  quite  palatable,  plenty  of  variety,  and  with 
the  delicacies  and  dainties  which  have  been  sent  to  us 
by  our  friends  we  feel  assured  we  shall  not  suffer  for 
want  of  food.  The  Chinese  attendants  look  very  pic- 
turesque, tall  men,  dressed  in  blue  kaftans  at  breakfast 
and  luncheon  and  entirely  in  white  at  dinner,  with 
their  pigtails  hanging  down  almost  to  the  floor.  Our 
own  suite  of  rooms — sitting  room,  bedroom,  and  bath 
— is  most  comfortable,  the  entire  ship  having  a  cheery 
look,  and  sailing  along  with  remarkable  steadiness; 
indeed,  hardly  anyone  on  board  appears  to  be  seasick. 
The  company  is  pleasant,  about  230  first-class  passen- 
gers, some  going  only  to  Honolulu,  but  the  large  ma- 


jority  bound  for  Japan  and  China;  a  number  of  mer- 
chants going  out  to  the  East  on  business,  but  a  more 
considerable  number  being  tourists,  going  to  Japan, 
most  of  them  on  their  maiden  voyage  to  the  Far 
East.  We  meet  a  number  of  acquaintances,  some  of 
whom  have  letters  of  introduction  to  me,  such  as  Dr. 
Biddle,  of  Philadelphia,  with  his  wife  and  three 
daughters,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Laughlin,  of  Pitts- 
burg, pleasant  people,  who,  however,  leave  the  ship 
at  Honolulu,  where  they  are  to  remain  for  two  weeks 
before  proceeding  further.  Of  the  Gordons  I  have 
already  spoken,  and  gradually  we  become  acquainted 
with  most  of  the  passengers,  some  of  whom  claim 
to  know  me  by  reputation,  and  introduce  themselves. 
Thus  a  pleasant  intercourse  springs  up;  there  are  no 
cliques,  such  as  are  frequently  found  on  the  Atlantic 
lines,  and  life  on  board  soon  settles  down  into  a  com- 
fortable routine.  I  generally  rise  with  the  first  gong 
at  7.30,  take  breakfast  at  half  past  eight,  and  then 
start  for  an  hour's  walk,  finishing  this  shortly  after 
ten  o'clock.  By  that  time  Mother,  who  takes  break- 
fast in  her  room,  is  ready  to  come  on  deck,  and  we 
take  another  short  walk  together,  have  short  chats 
with  friends,  and  about  11.30  o'clock  I  settle  down 


with  Ernst  Schiff  to  dictate  these  leaves.  This  takes 
up  the  time  until  the  luncheon  hour,  one  o'clock,  when 
we  meet  in  the  dining  room,  all  generally  in  fine  humor 
and  especially  friend  Budge,  whose  dry  humor  and 
good  appetite  often  force  a  smi.le  even  upon  the  other- 
wise placid  faces  of  the  Chinese  stewards.  It  is  much 
of  a  pleasure  and  satisfaction  to  see  friend  Budge  in 
his  sixty-sixth  year  so  youthful  in  his  activities  and 
so  ready  to  take  everything  from  the  most  pleasant 
side.  Friend  Neustadt,  too,  is  in  perfect  humor,  pays 
court  to  every  lady  on  shipboard,  irrespective  of  age, 
though  he  appears  to  have  a  preference  for  the  younger 
and  pretty  ones.  After  luncheon  we  disperse  and  a 
stillness  settles  over  the  ship;  apparently  the  require- 
ments of  the  digestion  and  the  strong  sea  air  produce 
heavy  eyelids  and  make  most  passengers  indulge  in  a 
soothing  afternoon  nap,  notwithstanding  the  denial 
which  the  accusation  that  such  is  the  case  brings  forth 
on  the  part  of  most.  Tea  hour  is  from  four  to  five 
o'clock;  we  take  our  tea  with  the  ladies,  upon  which 
occasion  some  pleasant  "  Klatsch "  is  generally  in- 
dulged in,  without  any  reputations  being,  however, 
sacrificed.  Promptly  after  tea  Budge,  Neustadt,  and 
Ernst  take  me  in  hand  for  the  completion  of  my  edu- 


cation,  it  having  been  decided  between  Mother  and 
these  friends  that  I  must  learn  the  game  of  bridge, 
and  learn  I  must,  whether  I  want  to  or  not.  They  say 
I  am  making  fair  progress,  though  I  know  I  have  no 
card  sense;  but  since  the  journey  to  Japan  and  the  re- 
turn home  will  consume  some  thirty  days  on  ship- 
board, that  time  ought  to  suffice  to  turn  me  at  least 
into  a  fair  dummy  player;  qui  vivra  verra!  Our  game 
of  bridge  generally  lasts  until  shortly  after  six  o'clock, 
when  another  constitutional  is  taken,  the  ordinary 
clothing  exchanged  for  the  dinner  jacket,  and  at  seven 
o'clock  punctually,  at  the  sound  of  the  gong,  we  are 
ready  for  our  evening  meal.  This  lasts  until  about 
eight  o'clock  and  then  the  gentlemen  repair  to  the 
smoking  room,  the  ladies  withdrawing  into  the  music 
room  and  lobbies  for  the  rest  of  the  evening.  Mother 
generally  occupies  herself  in  the  evening  hours  with 
embroidering  and  conversation,  while  I  use  the  hours 
after  dinner  for  correspondence,  ending  up  with  an- 
other short  walk  before  I  retire  at  about  eleven  o'clock. 
Six  days  after  our  departure  from  San  Francisco,  early 
on  Wednesday  morning,  March  14th,  we  sight  the 
Hawaiian  Islands  and  we  reach  Honolulu  at  eight 
o'clock  A.M..   when    the   steamer   makes    fast   at   her 


wharf.  When  leaving  San  Francisco,  Mr.  Phil  Lili- 
enthal  had  made  me  acquainted  with  Colonel  Macfar- 
lane,  a  co-passenger  on  the  "  Manchuria,"  chamberlain 
to  the  late  King  of  Hawaii,  a  personal  friend,  whom 
he  had  asked  to  arrange  that  our  party  could  see 
Honolulu  to  best  advantage  during  the  short  stop  the 
steamer  would  make.  Because  of  this  Colonel  Mac- 
farlane  fully  discussed  on  the  way  from  San  Fran- 
cisco to  Honolulu  plans  how  to  get  the  best  out  of 
our  short  stay  at  Honolulu.  Captain  Saunders,  of  the 
"  Manchuria,"  who  had  been  instructed  to  make  him- 
self agreeable  to  us  as  far  as  the  service  would  permit, 
informed  me  after  leaving  San  Francisco  that  discre- 
tion had  been  given  him  by  the  executive  officers  of 
the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company  to  defer  the 
usual  departure  of  the  steamer  from  Honolulu  for 
twelve  or  eighteen  hours,  should  I  so  desire,  and  as 
the  Captain  informed  me  we  should  likely  arrive  at 
Honolulu  in  the  early  morning,  I  arranged  with  him 
to  defer  the  departure  from  the  usual  hour  of  sailing 
at  the  usual  time  of  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of 
the  same  day  to  ten  o'clock  the  next  morning.  Upon 
our  arrival  at  Honolulu  we  are  met  by  Mr.  Kishi,  a 
Japanese  gentleman,   agent  of  the  Yokohama   Specie 


Bank,  who  had  been  advised  of  our  coming  by  Mr. 
Imanishi,  the  New  York  agent  of  the  same  bank,  and 
who  expresses  the  desire  to  show  us  some  attention; 
further  by  Mr.  Shingle,  of  the  Henry  Waterhouse 
Trust  Company,  likewise  a  friend  of  Mr.  Lilienthal. 
I  suggest  to  Colonel  Macfarlane  that  he  arrange  with 
these  gentlemen  for  a  division  of  the  time  at  our  dis- 
posal, and  that  whatever  programme  they  might  work 
out  would  be  agreeable  to  our  party.  Automobiles  are 
in  waiting  and  before  long  we  are  rapidly  taken  over  a 
fine  macadamized  road  a  distance  of  about  one  hour 
to  the  "  Pali,"  a  huge  projection  of  perhaps  a  thousand 
feet  elevation,  overlooking  a  splendid  countryside  and 
the  ocean.  After  having  enjoyed  this  fine  bit  of 
scenery,  we  retrace  our  steps  and  take  a  ride  through 
the  Chinese  and  Portuguese  settlement  to  the  so-called 
"  Punchbowl,"  a  hilly  volcanic  formation,  from  which 
likewise  a  fine  but  different  view  is  enjoyed.  We  then 
drive  through  other  suburbs  of  Honolulu,  with  many 
fine  residences,  and  we  greatly  enjoy  the  luxurious 
tropical  vegetation  of  the  island,  which  abounds  in 
royal  palms,  orange  trees,  pepper  trees,  rice  fields,  and 
rich,  beautiful  flora.  We  are  told  that  this  vegetation, 
while  not  quite  as  luxuriant  in  the  winter  as  in  summer, 


is  almost  the  same  in  all  seasons,  the  temperature  of 
the  island  being  almost  unvaried  all  the  year  around, 
an  average  of  between  seventy  and  seventy-five  degrees. 
Indeed,  one  can  hardly  imagine,  without  having  seen 
it  with  one's  own  eyes,  the  fascination  of  this  perfect 
paradise,  the  soothing  effect  of  its  climate,  and  the  joy 
called  forth  through  a  nature  so  abundant  in  its  richest 
gifts.  Our  forenoon  automobile  ride  ends  at  the 
Moana  Hotel,  a  modern  hostelry,  situated  near  the  sea, 
which  latter  throws  its  waves  upon  the  beach  in  the 
most  perfect  colors  of  blue,  white,  and  green.  At  the 
Moana  Hotel  Mr.  Kishi  has  provided  luncheon  for 
the  entire  party,  in  an  airy  dining  pavilion;  we  much 
enjoy  the  meal,  and  during  its  progress  we  have  an 
opportunity  to  see  something  of  the  winter  population 
of  Honolulu,  which  largely  consists  of  Americans  who 
have  come  to  the  island  to  escape  the  severe  American 
climate  and  to  enjoy  instead  the  island's  eternal  Spring 
weather.  Besides  our  own  party,  there  are  also  at  the 
luncheon  a  Mr. and  Mrs.Greenbaum,  friends  of  Budge 
and  Neustadt;  Mr.  Hackfeld,  one  of  the  large  mer- 
chants of  Honolulu,  representing  the  Pacific  Mail 
Steamship  Company;  Mr.  Shingle,  Colonel  Macfar- 
lane,  and  two  or  three  other  representative  Honolulu 


people.  After  luncheon  we  again  take  to  the  automo- 
biles to  ride  to  the  Aquarium,  which  "has  collected  in 
its  sea-water  tanks  some  exceedingly  beautiful  speci- 
mens of  fish  of  rare  colors,  odd-shaped  crabs,  and  other 
curious  ocean  specimens,  in  which  the  waters  surround- 
ing the  island  abound.  We  then  proceed  to  the  resi- 
dence of  Governor  Cleghorn,  an  elderly  Scotch  gentle- 
man, who  settled  on  the  island  over  fifty  years  ago  and 
married  one  of  the  King's  sisters,  and  whose  daughter, 
the  late  King  having  no  children,  would  have  succeeded 
to  the  Hawaiian  throne  had  the  monarchy  been  main- 
tained. We  are  told  by  Colonel  Macfarlane  that  the 
young  girl  was  sent  to  England  there  to  receive  an  edu- 
cation specially  to  fit  her  for  the  royal  duties  which 
it  was  expected  would  devolve  upon  her.  While  she 
was  in  England,  the  revolution  broke  out  at  Honolulu 
in  1891,  by  which  the  then  existing  Hawaiian  Govern- 
ment was  overthrown.  Queen  Liliuokalani,  who  had 
succeeded  her  brother,  the  King,  at  his  death  in  1887, 
became  dethroned.  It  all  ended  in  the  turning  over 
of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  to  the  United  States,  and  when 
the  young  Princess,  Governor  Cleghorn's  daughter, 
returned  from  England  in  1896  she  found  her  future 
kingdom  a  thing  of  the  past  and  the  throne  of  her  an- 


cestors  lost  forever.  She  soon  after  died,  it  is  said,  of 
a  broken  heart.  Governor  Cleghorn,  to  whom  we  are 
introduced  by  Colonel  Macfarlane,  welcomes  us  per- 
sonally to  his  place,  which  consists  of  a  large  and  beau- 
tiful park  full  of  cocoanut  groves  and  other  palm  trees 
and  has  fine  vistas  into  the  surrounding  country.  After 
having  escorted  us  through  the  park,  the  Governor 
asks  us  into  the  reception  hall,  a  large  lofty  structure, 
in  which  are  arranged  mementos  of  the  royal  Hawaiian 
family,  pictures  of  the  Kings  and  Queens,  and  among 
them  the  portrait  of  Governor  Cleghorn's  Hawaiian 
wife,  who — as  I  have  already  said — was  a  sister  of  the 
late  King  and  ex-Queen  Liliuokalani,  together  with 
portraits  of  his  deceased  young  daughter,  the  late 
Princess  and  heir  apparent.  Tea  is  served  by  at- 
tractive Japanese  maidens,  after  which  we  take  our 
leave,  some  of  the  party  to  go  surf  bathing,  Mother 
and  I  to  pay  a  visit  to  Mrs.  Bicherton,  an  early  resi- 
dent of  Honolulu,  who  had  expressed  the  desire  to 
show  us  some  hospitality,  at  the  instance  of  our  Japa- 
nese friend,  Mrs.  Imanishi,  of  New  York,  who  had 
been  brought  up  in  her  family.  Leaving  Mrs.  Bicher- 
ton, who  with  her  son  is  very  hearty  in  her  reception, 
we  drive  to  the  Royal  Hawaiian  Hotel,  where  we  have 


arranged  to  spend  the  night,  having  invited  our  own 
party  and  the  friends  we  had  made  at  Honolulu  to 
meet  us  at  dinner  at  the  hotel.  It  has  been  a  strenuous 
day  for  Mother,  and  while  she  retires  for  an  hour's 
rest,  I  attend  to  some  correspondence  and  arrange  for 
the  dinner,  a  table  for  fourteen  being  set  upon  the  open 
piazza  of  the  hotel.  Our  guests  soon  begin  to  arrive, 
including — aside  from  the  members  of  our  own  party — 
Colonel  Macfarlane,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Kishi  (the  latter 
a  neat  Japanese  who  hardly  speaks  English,  but  with 
whom  as  my  dinner  partner  I  get  along  very  well), 
Mr.  Atkinson,  the  acting  Governor  of  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  (the  Governor  himself  being  away  in  the 
United  States)  ;  Mr.  Hackfeld,  Mr.  Shingle,  Mr. 
Campbell,  and  Captain  Saunders,  of  the  "  Manchuria." 
The  dinner,  while  nothing  to  boast  of  from  a  Lucullian 
point  of  view,  passes  ofif  finely,  all  being  in  the  best 
of  humor.  Colonel  Macfarlane  in  a  neat  little  speech 
proposes  Mother's  and  my  own  health,  to  which  I 
respond  in  a  few  words,  and  then  almost  everyone  has 
somebody's  health  to  propose,  and  much  merriment 
prevails.  Dinner  being  over  shortly  after  nine  o'clock, 
we  repair  to  the  open  lobby  and  there  meet  a  number 
of  our  co-passengers,  some  of  whom,  like  the  Biddies 


and  Mr.  Laughlin,  have  concluded  to  remain  in  Hono- 
lulu until  the  sailing  of  the  succeeding  steamer  for 
Japan.  Meantime  we  have  been  informed  that  the 
managers  of  the  Japanese  Country  Club  have  arranged 
to  hold  a  reception  and  give  a  garden  party  in  our 
honor  later  in  the  evening.  We  therefore  soon  get  into 
the  automobiles  to  drive  to  the  Japanese  Club  grounds, 
some  three  miles  from  the  city,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Biddle 
and  Mr.  Laughlin  joining  us  upon  our  invitation. 
Reaching  the  club,  we  find  its  extensive  grounds  taste- 
fully decorated  with  Japanese  lanterns,  etc.,  and  enter- 
ing the  clubhouse,  we  are  received  by  the  music  of  the 
Hawaiian  Band,  an  orchestra  of  native  Hawaiians, 
under  the  leadership  of  a  German  conductor,  who  ap- 
pears to  be  quite  an  original.  The  band  plays  a  num- 
ber of  pieces,  part  of  them  in  accompaniment  to  a 
native  female  soloist  who  has  quite  a  charming  voice; 
the  plaintive  tunes  composing  these  peculiar  airs  make 
quite  a  pathetic  impression,  sounding  as  they  do  like 
the  swan  song  of  a  once  comparatively  mighty  race, 
now  rapidly  dwindling  and  passing  away  among  the 
civilization  of  the  white  race,  crowding  it  out  of  ex- 
istence. The  orchestra  having  finished,  we  again  enter 
the  club  rooms,  where  we  hold  a  reception,  the  Japa- 


nese  residents  of  Honolulu  having  expressed  the  desire 
to  be  presented  to  us.  This  over,  we  are  taken  to  the 
auditorium  of  the  Club,  where  first  a  number  of  Ha- 
waiian girls  perform  native  dances,  a  sensuous  show, 
which  is  rather  unsympathetic.  Following  this,  some 
young  Japanese  geisha  girls  appear  who,  it  is  ex- 
plained, are  to  perform  a  dance,  embodying  the  sub- 
jugation of  Russia  by  Japan  and  the  reestablishment 
of  peace  between  the  two  countries.  This  proves  to 
be  a  very  neat  and  attractive  performance,  especially 
on  the  part  of  the  youngest  dancer,  a  little  girl  only 
nine  years  old.  The  dancing  being  over,  we  are  in- 
vited into  the  dining  hall,  where  a  sumptuous  cham- 
pagne supper  is  served,  and  when  we  rise  at  midnight 
to  return  to  the  hotel,  we  feel  that  we  have  passed  a 
day  full  of  interest  and  of  novel  impressions.  Mother, 
Ernst,  and  I  remain  this  night  at  the  hotel,  the  other 
members  of  the  party  returning  to  the  steamer  for  the 
night's  rest.  We  rise,  splendidly  refreshed  by  a  cool 
night's  sleep,  bright  and  early  the  next  morning 
(Thursday,  March  15th)  and  are  met  by  the  indefat- 
igable Colonel  Macfarlane,  who  informs  us  that  ex- 
Queen  Liliuokalani  has  expressed  a  desire  to  meet 
us  before  we  leave  Honolulu  and  would  be  ready  to 


receive  us  at  half  past  nine  o'clock,  the  steamer's  de- 
parture having  been  set  for  ten  o'clock.  Finishing  our 
breakfast,  the  other  members  of  our  party  come  from 
the  steamer  to  join  us,  and  once  more  the  automobiles 
are  called  into  requisition  to  take  us  to  the  residence 
of  the  ex-Queen.  Here  we  find  the  stately  looking  old 
brown  lady,  surrounded  by  some  of  her  ladies-in-wait- 
ing, who,  we  understand,  are  relatives,  also  Prince 
David,  one  of  her  nephews  by  marriage,  and  we  are  told 
she  is  thus  maintaining  the  appearance  and  dignity  of 
sovereignty,  which  in  reality  has  passed  away  entirely; 
the  United  States  Government  is  allowing  her  a  small 
competence,  with  which  she  can  hardly  do  more  than 
keep  body  and  soul  together.  The  ex-Queen  continues, 
however,  to  be  much  beloved  by  the  natives  and  re- 
spected by  the  white  population  because  of  her  digni- 
fied life,  which  she  dedicates  to  good  work,  as  far  as 
in  her  power.  Queen  Liliuokalani  expresses  much 
satisfaction  in  meeting  us,  presenting  the  ladies  of  the 
party  with  enameled  coats  of  arms  of  the  royal  house 
in  the  form  of  breastpins,  honoring  Mother  by  a 
specially  nice  specimen,  and  as  we  have  only  very 
little  time  to  spare  we  depart,  after  the  exchange  of 
civilities,  rapidly  driving  to  the  steamer,  the  departure 


of  which  we  feel  we  must  not  delay;  it  could,  however, 
not  well  have  left  without  us,  as  we  had  taken  the 
captain  with  us  to  the  Queen's  reception,  and  held  him 
as  hostage  in  order  to  be  certain  not  to  be  left  behind. 
On  the  wharf  we  again  find  the  Hawaiian  orchestra, 
which  receives  us  this  time  with  cheerful  music,  such 
as  the  "  Star-Spangled  Banner,"  "  Die  Wacht  am 
Rhein,"  etc.,  and  with  these  strains,  with  endless  cheers 
on  the  part  of  our  Honolulu  friends,  who  have  come  to 
bid  us  adieu,  we  sail  away  in  high  spirits.  The  morn- 
ing is  beautiful,  the  sky  cloudless,  the  ocean  of  the  deep- 
est blue,  and  long  shall  we  remember  the  warmth  with 
which  we  were  received  and  the  impressions  which  we 
enjoyed  from  our  only  too  short  visit  to  this  perfect 
paradise  in  mid-Pacific.  The  steamer  passes,  just  after 
leaving  its  wharf,  through  waters  so  perfectly  clear 
that  one  can  see  almost  to  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  and 
it  is  quite  a  sight  to  observe  young  natives  swim  for 
a  considerable  distance  alongside  the  steamer,  beg- 
ging for  nickels  and  dimes,  after  which,  when  thrown 
to  them  into  the  water,  they  dive  and  bring  up  between 
their  teeth,  without  missing  in  a  single  instance.  A  hard 
way  to  make  a  living,  but,  it  must  be  supposed,  to  these 
natives  a  perfectly  natural  one.    We  are  now  once  more 


on  our  good  boat,  preparing  for  our  twelve  days'  sail 
and  settling  down  accordingly.  A  number  of  the  pas- 
sengers have  remained  at  Honolulu,  but  others  have 
taken  their  places  and  soon  are  absorbed  into  the  family 
of  the  cabin  passengers.  Plans  are  daily  made  and  car- 
ried out  for  amusement  and  entertainment.  Dancing 
on  deck  on  some  evenings  to  the  tune  of  a  phonograph, 
games  and  sports,  such  as  sack  races,  potato  races,  egg 
races,  boxing  bouts,  Japanese  and  Chinese  baby  shows, 
and  similar  fun  are  the  order  of  the  day,  while  a  very 
successfully  arranged  progressive  bridge  game,  par- 
ticipated in  by  the  majority  of  the  passengers,  creates 
much  interest  and  excitement  on  one  evening.  On 
Friday  evening,  March  23d,  a  ladies'  committee,  in- 
cluding Mother,  arrange  a  concert  for  the  benefit  of 
the  sufferers  from  the  famine  in  the  North  of  Japan. 
The  entertainment  comes  ofif  most  successfully  and 
nets,  together  with  the  balance  of  some  other  small 
funds  which  had  been  raised  for  various  purposes  dur- 
ing the  voyage,  a  total  of  about  $400,  which  amount 
Ernst  Schifif,  who  acted  as  treasurer,  is  going  to  turn 
over  to  the  Japanese  Famine  Committee  on  our  arrival 
at  Yokohama.  Ernst  has  made  himself  very  useful  in 
general  in  getting  up  the  various  entertainments,  and 


being  one  of  the  very  few  young  men  on  board,  he  has 
been  much  of  a  favorite  with  the  ladies.  In  making 
a  record  of  our  doings  on  board  1  should  not  omit  to 
mention  the  visit  made  with  Captain  Saunders  to  the 
different  parts  of  the  ship,  the  cleanly  kitchen  and 
pantry,  the  enormous  cold-storage  and  refrigerator 
rooms,  the  engine  room  being  first  inspected,  and  our 
round  then  leading  us  to  the  Asiatic  steerage,  where 
Chinese  and  Japanese,  young  and  old,  are  housed  in 
surprisingly  cleanly  and  well-ventilated  quarters.  An 
opium  den  is  part  of  the  outfit  of  this  section,  as  the 
Chinese  insist  that  this  provision  must  be  made  for 
them,  and  likewise  the  starboard  deck,  which  is  set 
apart  for  the  Asiatic  steerage  passengers,  is  covered 
with  gambling  tables,  mostly  roulette,  run  by  Chinese 
croupiers.  The  captain  tells  us  that  efforts  have  re- 
peatedly been  made  to  do  away  with  this,  but  that  it 
was  found  that  if  this  was  persisted  in,  it  would  be- 
come well-nigh  impossible  to  retain  the  ship's  crew 
or  to  get  steerage  passengers,  gambling  being  to  the 
Chinese  almost  as  necessary  as  food  or  air.  The  most 
unpleasant  part  of  this,  however,  is  that  quite  a  number 
of  the  cabin  passengers  participate  in  this  gambling  as 
a  pastime,  without  feeling  the  disgrace  they  thus  bring 


upon  themselves.  This  certainly  ought  to  be  strictly 
prohibited  by  the  management  of  the  company.  We 
have  made  excellent  runs,  which  this  day  (Sunday, 
March  25th)  have  brought  us  almost  a  day  ahead  of 
our  schedule,  so  that  we  may  expect  to  land  at  Yoko- 
hama this  afternoon. 

We  sight  land  at  about  eleven  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  in  another  five  hours  we  reach  the  harbor 
of  Yokohama,  where  the  steamer  casts  anchor  outside 
of  the  breakwater.  A  tedious  procedure  is  gone 
through  before  the  quarantine  authorities — all  pas- 
sengers, as  their  names  are  called  from  the  list,  hav- 
ing to  pass  the  physician,  a  stern-looking  young  official. 
This  done,  a  number  of  people  come  on  board  from 
shore,  among  whom  we  find  Mr.  Fukai,  the  private 
secretary  of  Mr.  Takahashi,  whom  I  had  already  met 
with  the  latter  in  New  York,  and  who  brings  a  Mr. 
Kitashima,  who,  as  he  explains,  has  been  delegated  by 
the  Bank  of  Japan  to  remain  with  us  during  our  entire 
stay  in  Japan,  to  look  after  our  comfort,  to  arrange 
our  plans,  and  to  make  himself  generally  useful  and 
agreeable,  two  guides  having  been  moreover  engaged 
for  us,  to  be  under  the  supervision  of  Mr.  Kitashima. 
The  latter,  a  man  of  about  thirty-five,  tells  us  that  he  is 


a  Harvard  graduate,  has  lived  a  number  of  years  in 
the  United  States,  and  has  married  an  American.  This 
all  puts  us  at  once  at  our  ease,  and  makes  us  feel  at 
home  from  the  outset.  Mr.  Howard,  the  general 
agent  and  manager  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Company,  also  presents  himself  and  tells  us  that  he 
has  been  specially  requested  by  his  company's  home 
officials  to  do  everything  he  can  for  us.  He  places  his 
steam  launch  at  our  disposal  to  take  us  to  the  shore, 
and  going  aboard  the  launch  we  soon  are  landed  at 
the  Yokohama  pier.  Here,  as  we  mount  the  carriage, 
Mr.  Mori,  private  secretary  of  the  Finance  Minister, 
appears  to  bid  us  welcome  on  the  latter's  behalf;  this 
over,  we  are  driven  to  the  Grand  Hotel,  a  short  dis- 
tance only,  where  we  find  comfortable  rooms  reserved 
for  us.  By  the  time  we  get  settled  dinner  time  has 
arrived,  and  we  greatly  enjoy  the  meal,  the  first  on 
Japanese  soil,  though  served  in  entirely  foreign  style. 
Dinner  over,  we  consult  Mr.  Kitashima  what  to  do 
with  our  evening,  and  he  suggests  a  jinrikisha  ride 
through  the  town,  specially  to  Theater  Street,  the  most 
lively  thoroughfare  during  evening  hours.  We  accept 
the  suggestion,  and  each  mounting  one  of  the  numer- 
ous jinrikishas  in  front  of  the  hotel,  we  get  our  first 


experience  of  this  vehicle.  The  ladies  are  at  first  a 
bit  nervous,  as  the  coolies  take  hold  and  in  rapid  pace 
draw  the  jinrikishas  over  the  smooth  pavement,  but 
soon  they  get  used  to  this  novel  mode  of  transportation, 
and  in  after  days  all  get  to  prefer  it  to  carriage  riding. 
After  a  short  drive  we  find  ourselves  on  Theater  Street, 
where  we  alight,  as  the  street  is  crowded  with  people, 
mostly  on  foot,  with  whom  we  mingle — our  first  expe- 
rience of  a  Japanese  town  and  natives.  The  shops  are 
still  open,  displaying  all  kinds  of  wares  in  entirely 
open  spaces,  the  shopkeeper  generally  sitting  among 
his  goods  on  his  haunches  in  a  complacent  attitude. 
After  our  curiosity  has  to  some  extent  become  satisfied, 
we  return  to  the  hotel  at  a  somewhat  late  hour,  and 
retire  for  our  first  night's  sleep  in  far-away  Japan. 

Monday,  March  26th. — The  ladies  have  a  desire 
to  see  something  of  the  more  important  shops  in  Yoko- 
hama, and  with  this  in  view  set  out  with  the  guides, 
while  I  go  with  Mr.  Kitashima  to  the  Yokohama  Spe- 
cie Bank  to  make  money  arrangements,  to  instruct  how 
my  mail  from  home,  which  is  to  come  to  the  bank,  is 
to  be  disposed  of,  and  to  await  Mr.  Takahashi's  arrival. 
He  had  telephoned  earlier  from  Tokio  that  he  was 
coming  to  Yokohama  to  meet  us,  after  having  first  at- 


tended  a  directors'  meeting  at  the  Specie  Bank,  of  which 
he  has  become  the  president  since  his  recent  return  from 
the  United  States  and  Europe,  where  as  vice-governor 
of  the  Bank  of  Japan  he  had  sojourned  almost  two 
years  in  order  to  negotiate  the  Japanese  Government's 
war  loans.  It  was  through  this  that  Mr.  Takahashi 
and  I  have  become  more  intimately  acquainted. 
Reaching  the  Specie  Bank,  I  find  Mr.  Takahashi  al- 
ready there,  and  he  is  as  glad  to  meet  me  again — and 
in  his  own  country — as  I  am  to  meet  him.  After  a 
long  talk,  I  leave  Mr.  Takahashi  and  the  bank,  as  1  had 
promised  to  join  Mother  and  the  other  ladies  in  the 
shopping  district.  I  find  them  at  Samurai  Shokai's, 
the  largest  curio  shop  in  Yokohama,  where  Mother  has 
already  selected  a  lot  of  things  for  my  approval,  which 
is  willingly  given.  We  visit  together  some  other  shops, 
without,  however,  making  any  further  acquisitions, 
and  then  return  to  the  hotel  for  luncheon.  In  the  after- 
noon Mr.  Takahashi  calls  and  discusses  plans  and  ar- 
rangements relative  to  our  stay  in  Tokio,  whither  we 
expect  to  move  in  a  day  or  two.  After  Mr.  Takahashi 
has  left  we  start  for  an  outing,  visit  an  interesting  Bud- 
dhist temple,  and  then  go  to  the  "  House  of  a  Hundred 
Steps,"  a  teahouse  located  upon  an  eminence  reached 


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by  a  long  flight  of  steps.  We  enjoy  a  fine  view  of 
the  city  and  the  bay,  have  tea  at  the  quaint  teahouse, 
kept  by  a  shrewd  elderly  Japanese  woman,  who  speaks 
English  and  some  German,  and  who  shows  us  a  visit- 
ors' register  containing  the  names  of  many  well-known 
foreigners,  and  in  which  we  likewise  inscribe  our 
own.  Getting  away,  the  jinrikishas,  to  which  we 
have  by  this  time  adapted  ourselves  quite  nicely,  take 
us  through  the  residential  quarter  on  the  blufif,  where 
the  foreign  residents  occupy  many  very  pretty  villas. 
We  visit  the  Yokohama  Nursery,  inspect  there  an 
interesting  exhibit  of  plants  and  trees,  and  Mother 
and  I  select  some  fine  specimens  of  dwarf  trees,  which 
we  order  to  be  sent  to  New  York.  Darkness  coming 
on,  we  return  to  the  hotel,  and  later,  upon  invitation 
of  the  Neustadts,  the  entire  party  joins  them  at  din- 
ner at  the  Oriental  Hotel,  where  we  remain  the  rest 
of  the  evening.  Returning  to  our  own  hotel,  I  find 
a  telegram  awaiting  me  from  Mr.  Fukai,  advising  me 
that  the  Emperor  is  going  to  receive  me  in  special 
audience  day  after  to-morrow,  and  will  give  me  a 
luncheon  after  the  audience.  This  necessitates  our 
departure  for  Tokio  to-morrow  morning  to  arrange 
the  preparations  for  this  high  honor. 


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Tuesday,  March  ZJth. — Mother,  Ernst,  and  I,  with 
Mr.  Kitashima,  start  early  for  Yokohama,  the  rest  of 
the  party  deciding  to  remain  another  day  to  visit  the 
nearby  Kamakura,  intending  to  join  us  to-morrow  in 
Tokio.  Reaching  the  railway  station,  we  find  a  special 
car  reserved  for  us  in  the  train,  and  are  joined  by  Mr. 
Skidmore,  counselor  of  the  American  Legation.  On 
arriving  at  Tokio  we  are  officially  received  by  the  sta- 
tion master,  who  accompanies  us  to  our  carriage,  a 
large  gathering  of  people  forming  queue  and  making 
respectful  expressions.  We  drive  rapidly  to  the  Impe- 
rial Hotel,  where  we  find  fairly  comfortable  apart-  i 
ments.  Mr.  Takahashi  comes  to  luncheon  and  posts 
us  as  to  Japanese  etiquette,  etc.  Shortly  after  lunch- 
eon, accompanied  by  Mr.  Fukai,  I  make  a  round  of 
official  visits,  leaving  cards  on  Mr.  Wilson,  American 
Charge  d'Afifaires;  Prime  Minister  Marquis  Saionji, 
Minister  of  the  Imperial  Household  Viscount  Tanaka, 
Minister  of  Finance  Sakatani,  ex-Prime  Minister 
Count  Katsura,  ex-Finance  Minister  Baron  Sone, 
and  also  calling  at  the  Bank  of  Japan,  where  I  am 
welcomed  by  Mr.  Matsuo,  the  governor  of  the  bank, 
Vice-Governor  Takahashi,  and  some  of  the  directors. 
From  there  we  proceed  to  the  House  of  Parliament, 


where  I  am  received  by  Mr.  Mori,  the  secretary  of 
the  Finance  Minister,  and  taken  to  the  special  gallery 
in  the  House  of  Peers,  where  voting  is  just  proceed- 
ing on  the  "  Nationalization  of  the  Railroads,"  etc. 
A  fine  body  of  men  these  peers,  consisting  one-fourth 
of  members  of  the  Imperial  family,  one-fourth  of  men 
appointed  by  the  Emperor  for  their  capacity,  one- 
fourth  hereditary  members,  and  one-fourth  elected 
members.  Impressions  of  old  Japan  passing  away  are 
crowding  upon  one,  for  some  of  the  men  are  still 
garbed  in  typical  Japanese  dress,  thoughtful  in  their 
demeanor,  but  the  majority  in  modern  foreign  attire 
and  movement.  We  leave  to  return  to  the  hotel, 
where  I  rejoin  Mother  and  Ernst,  who  have  mean- 
time done  some  sightseeing,  and  have  also  been  to 
Parliament.  The  evening  is  spent  at  the  American 
Legation,  where  Mr.  Wilson,  the  Charge  d'Aflfaires, 
with  Mrs.  Wilson  is  giving  a  dinner  in  our  honor, 
and  where  we  meet  a  number  of  prominent  Japa- 
nese and  also  some  of  the  American  residents,  among 
others  Baron  Komura,  ex-Minister  of  Foreign  Af- 
fairs, who  concluded  the  peace  at  Portsmouth;  Mr. 
Takahira,  late  Minister  to  the  United  States;  Baron 
Mitsui ;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sonoda,  President  of  the  Nobles' 


Bank;  Baron  and  Baroness  Kaneko,  the  latter  my  table 
companion,  who  does  not  speak  a  word  of  English; 
Mr.  Matsuo,  Mr.  Takahashi,  Mr.  Loughlin,  second 
secretary  of  the  Legation;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Howard, 
Bishop  Harris,  and  Finance  Minister  Sakatani.  Mr. 
Wilson  drinks  to  our  health,  welcoming  us  to  Japan, 
and  I  reply  in  a  few  words.  Much  good  will  is  ex- 
pressed by  the  Japanese  present,  most  of  whom  desire 
to  do  something  for  us  and  press  us  to  accept  invita- 
tions, some  of  which  we  promise  to  consider.  We  leave 
late,  much  pleased  with  the  evening. 

Wednesday,  March  28th,  is  the  great  gala  day  for 
me  personally,  the  private  audience  with  the  Mikado 
being  set  for  half  past  eleven  o'clock,  luncheon  to  be 
served  right  after  the  audience.  I  am  told  it  is  the 
first  time  that  the  Emperor  has  invited  a  foreign  pri- 
vate citizen  to  a  repast  at  the  palace,  heretofore  only 
foreign  Princes  having  been  thus  honored.  The 
Finance  Minister,  Mr.  Sakatani,  is  to  be  my  sponsor 
and  to  take  me  to  the  palace  for  the  audience.  He 
calls  at  the  hotel  at  eleven  o'clock,  and  we  drive  direct 
to  the  palace.    The  palace  of  the  Emperor  is  a  mod-  i 

em  structure,  the  old  palace  having  been  partly  burned 
about   thirty   years   ago.     This   new   palace   was    fin- 


ished  about  fifteen  years  ago.  It  is  in  its  interior 
arrangements  and  appointments  a  combination  of 
Japanese  and  Western  construction  and  decoration. 
Long,  wide  halls  lead  to  the  dififerent  state  rooms. 
We  are  first  shown  into  a  large  reception  room,  where 
we  are  received  by  Mr.  Nagazaki,  the  Master  of  Cere- 
monies, who  speaks  English  fluently,  and  who  informs 
the  Minister  of  Finance  that  the  Emperor  will  receive 
me  alone.  He  leaves  us  and  returns  shortly,  stating 
to  me  that  he  has  been  commanded  by  his  Majesty  to 
invest  me  with  the  insignias  of  the  Order  of  the  Rising 
Sun,  which  the  Emperor  has  graciously  condescended 
to  bestow  upon  me.  Accordingly  he  divests  me  of  the 
Star  of  the  Second  Order  of  the  Sacred  Treasure, 
which  I  had  received  the  previous  year,  and  replaces 
it  by  the  two  decorations,  composing  the  second  class 
of  the  Order  of  the  Rising  Sun.  Thereupon  I  am 
taken  through  long  halls  into  a  smaller  reception  room, 
where  the  Emperor  receives  me  standing.  He  is 
dressed  in  military  house  uniform  (short  jacket  and 
koppi),  also  wearing  the  order  of  the  Rising  Sun  and 
a  number  of  medals.  Mr.  Nagazaki  is  at  his  side  as 
interpreter.  The  Emperor  extends  his  hand  and  bids 
me  welcome  to  Japan,  saying  that  he  has  heard  of  the 


important  assistance  I  have  given  the  nation  at  a  criti- 
cal time,  and  that  he  is  pleased  to  have  an  opportunity 
to  thank  me  in  person  for  it.  I  reply  that  I  feel  my 
services  have  been  overestimated,  but  from  the  start 
my  associates  and  I,  believing  in  the  righteousness  of 
the  cause  of  Japan,  when  we  had  the  opportunity  prac- 
tically to  prove  our  sympathy,  gladly  embraced  it. 
Whatever  I  have  done,  I  continued,  has  been  amply 
rewarded  by  his  Majesty's  graciousness  in  first  bestow- 
ing upon  me  the  Second  Order  of  the  Sacred  Treasure, 
then  this  day  the  Order  of  the  Rising  Sun,  and  more 
than  anything  else  by  so  cordially  and  kindly  receiving 
me  in  private  audience.  The  Emperor  thanks  me  for 
these  expressions  and  says  he  will  meet  me  shortly  at 
his  luncheon  table.  I  leave  and  am  taken  to  the  pri- 
vate dining  room,  where  I  find  some  nine  gentlemen 
standing  behind  their  chairs  around  the  table,  among 
others  Baron  Kaneko,  Mr.  Sakatani,  Mr.  Takahashi, 
Mr.  Matsuo,  and  a  son-in-law  of  Marquis  Ito.  Shortly 
the  Emperor  appears  with  three  aides  -  de  -  camp  — 
Princes,  as  I  am  told — Mr.  Nagazaki,  and  the  Viscount 
Tanaka,  Minister  of  the  Imperial  Household.  The 
Emperor  sits  down  between  his  aides-de-camp,  Vis- 
count Tanaka  opposite  the  Emperor,  and  I  am  placed 


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to  the  right  of  the  minister,  Baron  Kaneko  sitting  to 
my  own  right.  A  splendid  luncheon  is  served,  entirely 
in  foreign  style,  the  table  being  likewise  decorated  in 
the  usual  foreign  manner.  The  Emperor  appears  in 
excellent  appetite  and  humor,  conversing  freely,  telling 
of  some  pleasant  occurrences  in  the  early  years  of  his 
reign.  The  luncheon  nearing  its  conclusion  (after  hav- 
ing lasted  over  an  hour),  I  ask  Baron  Kaneko  whether 
it  would  be  proper  for  me  to  propose  the  Emperor's 
health.  He  sends  word  to  Mr.  Nagazaki  to  inquire, 
who  in  turn  makes  inquiry  from  the  Viscount  Tanaka, 
and  the  latter  being  undecided  in  his  answer,  Mr. 
Nagazaki  approaches  the  Emperor,  who  replies  that 
he  would  be  glad  to  have  me  do  so.  I  thereupon  rise, 
and  applying  to  the  Emperor  the  judgment  of  posterity 
of  our  beloved  George  Washington,  "  first  in  war,  first 
in  peace,  first  in  the  hearts  of  his  countrymen,"  I  drink 
to  his  health,  wishing  him  a  long  life,  his  own  happi- 
ness, the  happiness  of  his  family,  of  a  people  who  love 
him,  and  of  a  world  which  respects  him.  The  toast  is 
drunk  and  the  Emperor  lifts  his  glass,  expressing  ac- 
knowledgment, and  proposes  my  own  health,  which 
is  likewise  drunk  by  all  rising.  The  Emperor  soon 
rises  from  the  table  and  commands  me  again  before 


him,  saying  that  he  hopes  we  will  have  pleasant  days 
during  our  stay  in  Japan,  and  that  his  people  will  be 
good  and  agreeable  hosts.  I  again  thank  him  for  the 
honor  he  has  shown  me,  and  he  thereupon  departs 
with  his  aides-de-camp.  The  other  gentlemen  gather 
around  me  and  heartily  congratulate  me  upon  my  de- 
meanor and  upon  what  I  had  said,  which  evidently  had 
much  impressed  the  Emperor,  whom  they  had  never 
before  known  to  be  so  gracious  to  one  a  stranger  to 
him.  I  am  then  shown  through  the  palace  and  depart 
at  about  two  o'clock,  having  been  in  the  palace  about 
two  and  a  half  hours.  Returning  to  the  hotel,  I  find 
the  entire  party,  the  Budges  and  Neustadts  having 
meantime  arrived  from  Yokohama,  eagerly  awaiting 
my  return  and  willing  to  learn  of  my  experience, 
which  I  have  to  tell  them  in  detail.  Having  had  to 
appear  at  the  audience  in  evening  dress,  I  change  and 
accompany  Mother  and  the  others  to  Asaka  Park,  an 
apparently  very  popular  pleasure  ground,  crowded 
with  people  of  the  lower  class,  who  evidently  find 
much  amusement  in  the  different  popular  shows  going 
on  within  the  park,  which  also  contains  some  popular 
temples,  which  we  visit.  We  return  to  the  hotel  after 
five  o'clock  and  soon  prepare  for  the  dinner  at  Minis- 


ter  of  Finance  Sakatani's  official  residence,  to  be  given 
in  our  honor,  at  half  past  seven  o'clock.  Reaching 
there  in  due  time,  we  find  a  company  of  about  thirty 
guests,  principally  high  dignitaries,  among  whom  we 
meet  the  Marquis  Saionji,  the  Prime  Minister,  and 
most  of  the  guests  who  were  at  Mr.  Wilson's  the  even- 
ing before.  I  am  asked  to  take  Mrs.  Chinda  (wife 
of  the  Vice-Minister  of  Foreign  Afifairs)  to  dinner 
and  find  myself  seated  between  her  and  Mrs.  Sakatani, 
a  sweet-looking  Japanese  lady,  the  wife  of  the  Finance 
Minister,  who  is  in  native  dress.  Both  my  lady 
neighbors  speak  some  English  and  I  get  along  very 
nicely.  Mother  is  seated  to  the  right  of  the  host,  with 
Mr.  Wilson  on  her  other  side.  The  dinner  is  entirely 
in  foreign  style,  and  at  its  close  the  Finance  Minister 
rises  and  in  a  Japanese  address,  which  is  afterwards 
repeated  in  English  by  his  secretary,  welcomes  us  as 
follows : 
Your  Excellencies,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen: 

It  is  a  source  of  great  pleasure  to  me  that  you  have 
favored  me  with  your  company  at  the  dinner  given  in 
honor  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Schiff  and  their  party,  the  most 
distinguished  guests  we  have  ever  had  from  the  United 
States  of  America. 


Our  friendship  with  Mr.  Schiff  began  with  the 
opening  of  the  war  which  has  just  been  closed,  though 
it  is  only  last  evening  that  we  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing 
him  face  to  face. 

In  the  spring  of  IQ04  our  Government,  feeling  the 
need  of  foreign  capital  in  financing  the  war,  sent  Mr. 
Takahashi,  ince-president  of  the  Nippon  Ginko,  to 
London  to  negotiate  a  loan  with  foreign  capitalists,  who 
received  the  scheme  with  full  sympathy  and  favor. 

The  future  aspect  of  the  war,  however,  was  vague 
and  dark  in  the  eyes  of  everybody,  and  it  was  a  matter 
of  great  difficulty  to  float  a  loan  of  such  a  big  amount  at 
a  time  as  we  expected.  It  was  just  then  that  our  finan- 
cial agent  found  a  great  friend  in  need  in  the  person 
of  one  of  the  ablest  American  bankers  of  world-wide 
connections,  who  came  forward  to  lend  a  hand  to  the 
English  group  to  carry  out  the  programme  to  a  suc- 
cessful issue.  Of  course  I  refer  to  the  principal  guest 
of  this  evening. 

Mr.  Schiff  in  a  single  conversation  with  Mr.  Taka- 
hashi offered  to  underwrite  single-handed  a  half  of 
what  we  wanted,  and  our  first  foreign  loan  of  ten 
million  pounds  was  floated  in  the  market  in  England 
and  America  with  brilliant  success.     This  favor  was 


constantly  shown  in  the  second  and  third  issues  and 
especially  in  the  fourth  issue  when  the  political  situa- 
tion of  the  belligerent  powers  was  such  as  no  one  could 
tell  whether  they  would  go  on  fighting  or  come  to 
peace  and  when  the  condition  of  the  money  market  was 
anything  but  favorable  to  our  floating  a  loan. 

Lastly,  he  made  a  great  effort  and  spared  no  cost  or 
pain  in  carrying  out  the  fifth  issue  of  the  loan  last 
winter  and  subscribed  a  large  part  of  it.  The  amount 
of  our  loan  subscribed  by  Mr.  Schiff  from  the  first  to 
the  fifth  issue  arrives  at  a  grand  total  of  £jg, 2^0,000. 

Thus  I  have  described,  though  in  a  rough  and  short 
way,  the  merit  of  the  services  he  has  rendered  to  this 
country  during  the  war.  Now  I  have  to  thank  him  for 
these  invaluable  services.  But  here  my  words  fail  to 
express  our  heartfelt  gratitude  toward  him,  for  this 
gratitude  is  not  only  mine,  nor  only  of  the  Govern- 
ment, but  that  of  the  nation  at  large,  and  I  have  not 
language  suitable  enough  to  give  utterance  to  the 
national  feeling  of  thankfulness  to  a  full  extent. 

The  lords  and  gentlemen  here  present  form  a  group 
of  personages  who,  during  the  war,  served  the  country 
in  working  the  machine  of  war  finance,  some  as  the 
prominent  members  of  the  cabinet,  some  as  the  leaders 


of  the  great  party,  some  as  representatives  of  the  Em- 
pire, and  others  as  leading  members  of  the  financial 
circle.  So  it  is  quite  natural  that  they  have  all  longed 
and  longed  for  an  opportunity  to  see  and  thank  in 
person  our  friend  who  has  been  so  serviceable  to  the 
country  during  the  war.  Now  that  opportunity  has 
arrived  and  our  friend  is  among  us  to  talk  and  dine 
together  at  the  same  table  to  our  full  satisfaction.  That 
satisfaction  I  can  read  in  the  face  of  every  person  at 
the  table,  and  let  me  say ,  to  do  justice  to  the  host  it  will 
amply  make  up  the  imperfect  accommodation  of  this 
evening  for  which  I  should  have  to  apologize. 

It  is  my  earnest  wish  that  Mr.  Schiff  and  his  party 
will  stay  in  this  country  as  long  as  they  can.  But  being 
the  youngest  country  in  the  new  civilization  they  will 
feel  the  lack  of  accommodation  and  comfort  in  making 
a  trip  all  around  this  country,  making  observations  and 
seeing  the  sights.  Yet  we  will  do  our  best  to  afford 
them  any  convenience  in  our  power  to  make  them  as 
comfortable  as  we  can  so  as  to  induce  them  to  prolong 
their  stay  here  as  long  as  possible  and  give  them  ample 
time  for  their  observations  in  every  nook  and  corner 
and  give  us  many  opportunities  to  show  our  gratitude 
toward  him. 


Mr.  Sc/iiff,  I  hope  you  will  carry  back  with  you  the 
impression  of  our  heartfelt  reception  and  sincere  feel- 
ing toward  you,  and  will  leave  behind  you  frank  ad- 
vices and  suggestions  of  improvements  of  which  we 
may  avail  ourselves  to  increase  the  national  efficiency 
leading  to  the  further  cooperation  and  closer  intimacy 
between  the  two  friendly  powers  and  also  resulting  in 
a  speedy  development  in  industrial  and  commercial 
relations  in  China  and  Corea. 

Your  Excellencies,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen,  before 
I  sit  down  allow  me  to  propose  the  toast  for  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Schiff  and  their  excellent  party  and  ask  you  to 
join  me  by  raising  your  glass  and  drinking  their  health. 

To  this  I  reply  in  appropriate  words  and  we  soon 
thereafter  find  ourselves  in  the  social  rooms  in  pleasant 
conversation  with  the  other  guests,  most  of  whom  speak 
English  or  French.  The  hours  pass  quickly,  and  we 
return  to  the  hotel  all  greatly  impressed  and  pleased 
with  the  hospitality  we  have  received. 

Thursday,  March  2gth. — The  day  is  gray,  but  our 
spirits  are  rosy,  and  at  about  eleven  o'clock  all  except 
myself  start  for  Ugeno  Park.  I  with  Mr.  Kitashima 
have  first  to  make  some  calls,  especially  to  inscribe  my 


name  at  the  palace  of  the  Prince  Imperial,  of  Prince 
Fushimi,  and  of  Prince  Ishamina,  the  latter  the  two 
aides-de-camp  of  the  Emperor,  whom  I  met  at  the 
Imperial  luncheon  the  previous  day.  Having  done 
this,  I  pay  a  visit  to  Baron  Kaneko  at  his  residence, 
have  a  short  chat  with  him,  and  then  drive  to  Ugeno 
Park  to  join  the  rest  of  the  party  at  a  restaurant  there, 
where  we  take  a  good  luncheon  in  occidental  style. 
After  luncheon  we  visit  an  interesting  exhibition  of 
paintings  and  the  museum,  both  located  in  the  park, 
and  with  Ernst  I  return  to  the  hotel  on  foot,  the  rest 
of  the  party  driving  home.  In  the  evening  the  Di- 
rectors of  the  Bank  of  Japan  entertain  us  at  dinner  at 
the  Nobles'  Club,  about  fifty  guests,  including  possi- 
bly fifteen  ladies,  being  present,  some  of  whom,  includ- 
ing the  Prime  Minister,  Marquis  Saionji,  as  well  as 
most  all  the  other  ministers,  the  leading  bankers  and 
merchants,  we  had  already  met  the  previous  evening 
at  the  dinner  of  the  Minister  of  Finance.  I  am  seated 
between  Mrs.  Wilson  and  Mrs.  Chinda,  Mother  be- 
tween the  Prime  Minister,  the  Marquis  Saionji,  and 
the  Viscount  Tanaka,  the  Minister  of  the  Imperial 
Household.  Mr.  Takahashi  acts  as  host — Mr.  Matsuo, 
the   president   of    the    Bank   of   Japan,    having   been 


taken  ill — and  toward  the  close  of  the  dinner  makes 

the  following  address: 

Your  Excellencies,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen: 

I  thank  you  on  behalf  of  Governor  Matsuo  and 
myself  for  favoring  us  with  your  esteemed  presence 
this  evening.  It  is,  indeed,  a  great  pleasure  to  us  to 
have  the  opportunity  of  welcoming  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Schiff  and  their  party  in  our  own  country  and  espe- 
cially in  this  gathering  of  distinguished  guests.  Very 
unfortunately,  and  to  my  great  regret  no  less  than  his, 
Mr.  Matsuo  is  prevented  from  being  present  here  on 
account  of  the  bad  cold  from  which  he  is  suffering 
since  last  night,  and  he  desires  me  to  ask  your  pardon 
for  not  being  able  to  receive  you  personally  this 
evening. 

Although  some  of  you  may  have  met  Mr.  Schiff  for 
the  first  time  this  evening,  his  firm  has  been  well  known 
to  you  as  the  principal  issuers  of  the  Japanese  loans  in 
America.  The  war  of  IQO4-5  """^-^  one  of  the  most 
critical  events  in  the  annals  of  our  country,  and  it 
scarcely  needs  recalling  that  the  supply  of  funds  was 
of  extreme  importance  in  carrying  on  the  now  happily 
ended  conflict.  The  fact  that  no  want  was  felt  in 
respect   of  the  sinews   of  this  great  war,  and  that   it 


was  brought  to  a  successful  conclusion  without  causing 
much  disturbance  in  the  economic  and  financial  condi- 
tions of  the  country,  was  owing  to  the  favorable  re- 
sponse given  to  the  successive  issues  abroad  more  than 
to  any  other  single  cause.  This  was  especially  the  case 
in  regard  to  the  maintenance  of  specie  payments,  for 
which  the  Bank  of  Japan  is  most  directly  responsible. 
In  fact,  the  gold  reserve  of  the  bank  remained  on  a 
firm  basis  throughout  the  war,  mainly  because  it  was 
constantly  replenished  by  the  proceeds  of  external 
loans.  Now,  it  was  an  exceedingly  fortunate  circum- 
stance that  these  loans  were  issued  from  the  outset  in 
the  United  States  as  well  as  in  England.  The  financial 
support  given  by  the  American  people  was  a  material 
expression  of  their  warm  sympathy  toward  our  nation. 
We  are  happy,  therefore,  to  express  our  gratitude  to 
the  American  people  upon  the  present  occasion  of 
Mr.  Schiff's  visit.  But  considering  the  fact  that  no 
Japanese  loan  had  previously  been  issued  in  America, 
the  remarkable  success  that  attended  each  issue  there 
during  the  past  two  years  must  be  attributed,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  sympathy  of  the  American  people,  to  the 
efforts  of  the  influential  firm  of  Messrs.  Kuhn,  Loeb 
&  Co.  and  their  associates  who  have  such  a  large  fol- 


lowing  among  the  American  public.  Our  gratitude 
is,  therefore,  due  to  the  firm  of  which  Mr.  Schiff  is 
the  senior  partner.  But  in  speaking  of  the  factors  con- 
ducing to  the  success  of  the  loans,  there  is  one  more 
aspect  which  must  be  specially  emphasized.  I  mean 
the  prompt  decision  of  Mr.  Schiff,  who  happened  to 
be  in  London  when  the  negotiations  for  the  first  six  per 
cent  loan  were  going  on,  not  only  opened  the  way  for 
having  the  loan  issued  in  America,  but  the  American 
participation  at  the  very  opportune  moment  enhanced 
the  general  popularity  of  Japanese  securities  and  had 
beneficial  effects  upon  all  the  successive  issues.  More- 
over, Mr.  Schiff  rendered  me  valuable  assistance  in 
opening  the  German  negotiations  for  Japanese  loans. 
It  was  my  good  fortune  to  become  thus  acquainted  with 
Mr.  Schiff,  and  having  always  felt  it  a  pleasant  duty 
to  deal  with  him,  I  warmly  appreciate  his  personality 
as  an  important  factor  in  bringing  about  the  success 
of  the  loans. 

Such  being  Mr.  Schiff's  relation  with  the  finance 
of  our  country  during  the  war,  we  are  heartily  glad 
now  to  welcome  him  together  with  Mrs.  Schiff  and 
their  party.  Now,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Schiff,  and  ladies 
and  gentlemen  of  the  party,  I  wish  to  say  to  you  par- 


ticularly  that  we  shall  always  be  ready  to  do  whatever 
we  can  to  make  your  stay  both  interesting  and  com- 
fortable. As  the  intercourse  between  you  and  the  im- 
portant people  of  this  country  becomes  more  intimate, 
so,  we  hope,  the  economic  relation  between  the  United 
States  and  Japan  will  become  closer  in  the  future. 

Your  Excellencies,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  before  sit- 
ting down,  I  ask  you  to  join  me  in  drinking  the  health 
of  Air.  and  Mrs.  Schiff  and  their  party. 

March  2gth.     The  Nobles'  Club. 

In  responding,  I  tell  some  appropriate  anecdote, 
and  then  becoming  serious  I  sound  a  note  of  advice 
against  the  danger  of  overburdening  the  country  with 
new  commitments,  dwelling  particularly  upon  the 
fact  that  Japan  has  no  more  valuable  asset  than  the 
high  credit  it  has  again  attained  in  the  markets  of  the 
world  and  which  should  be  scrupulously  guarded. 
Again  the  evening  passes  most  pleasantly,  and  we  find 
ourselves  at  our  hotel  discussing  the  nice  impressions 
we  have  received. 

Friday,  March  JOth,  is  a  rainy  day  and  we  have  to 
give  up  a  water  and  fishing  party  which  we  expected 
to  undertake  for  the  day.     Instead  the  ladies  go  shop- 


ping,  Mother  buying  some  fine  Japanese  lacquer  work 
and  curios.  We  take  luncheon  at  the  hotel;  I  attend 
to  some  correspondence,  while  Mother  and  the  party 
go  to  a  Japanese  theater,  and  afterwards  I  go  to  a  con- 
ference with  the  Finance  Minister,  who  wishes  to  dis- 
cuss the  general  financial  situation.  In  the  evening 
Carl  Scheuer,  of  New  York,  and  his  son  quietly  dine 
with  us  and  our  party  at  the  hotel,  and,  as  it  is  still 
raining,  we  remain  indoors  for  the  balance  of  the 
evening. 

Saturday, March  3 1st. — We  leave  the  hotel  at  about 
ten  o'clock  to  visit  the  agency  of  the  Japanese  Culture 
Pearls  establishment,  where  "  man  helps  nature  "  to 
produce  the  real  deep-sea  pearl.  The  establishment 
itself  is  somewhere  on  the  inland  sea,  where,  by  a  proc- 
ess of  inserting  the  small  seed  pearl  into  the  breeding 
shell  and  replanting  the  latter  upon  the  sea  banks  for 
a  period  of  about  four  years,  pearls  of  various,  but  not 
very  large,  sizes  are  grown,  which,  except  upon  the 
side,  where  the  pearl  has  been  attached  to  the  shell,  are 
apparently  equal  in  luster  and  other  qualities  to  the 
finest  India  pearls.  We  buy  several  specimens  at  a 
moderate  price.  We  then  proceed  to  the  Commercial 
Museum — something    like    the    well-known    German 


"  Gewerbe-Ausstellung " — where  the  production  of 
almost  every  Japanese  industry  can  be  found,  with 
name  of  maker,  description,  and  price,  a  very  interest- 
ing and  useful  institution.  Leaving  there,  we  drive  to 
Shiba  Park,  with  its  beautiful  temple  about  three 
hundred  years  old,  where  a  number  of  Shoguns  are 
buried,  one  of  the  most  decorative  temples  in  Tokio, 
rich  in  lacquer  and  other  decorative  woodwork.  The 
temple  courts  and  the  whole  surroundings  are  like- 
wise most  attractive  and  interesting,  and  we  depart 
much  gratified;  I,  with  Neustadt  and  Budge,  return- 
ing to  the  hotel  on  foot,  the  weather  being  beautiful. 
In  the  afternoon  we  take  a  fine  drive  along  the  moat 
surrounding  the  Imperial  palace  and  then  to  the  Sho- 
kousha,  the  Shinto  temple,  to  which  the  Emperor 
comes  annually  to  pray  for  the  fallen  soldiers;  a  simple 
but  impressive  interior — no  decorative  art  being  em- 
ployed or  images  being  seen  in  Shinto  temples.  Near 
by  'S  the  Ai'my  and  Navy  Museum,  containing  inter- 
esting trophies  of  the  Japanese-Chinese  war  and  also 
of  the  Japanese-Russian  War,  as  well  as  many  im- 
pressive pictures  of  the  war.  We  find  the  museum 
crowded,  especially  with  young  people.  We  return 
through  a  fine  residential  quarter,  containing  a  number 


of  palaces  surrounded  by  fine  private  parks  of  various 
royal  Princes,  and  reach  the  hotel  in  the  late  afternoon. 
The  evening  is  spent  at  the  Maple  Club,  a  Japanese 
club  to  which  is  attached  the  best  Japanese  teahouse 
restaurant  in  Tokio.  We  dine  there  in  pure  Japanese 
style,  and  while  neat,  giggling  dancing  girls  wait  upon 
us,  very  attentive  to  our  wants,  other  girls,  to  the  ac- 
companiment of  native  music,  present  a  number  of 
pantomime  native  dances  in  a  most  skillful  and  in- 
teresting manner.  The  dinner,  consisting  of  any  num- 
ber of  small  dishes,  mostly  raw  and  cooked  fish,  stewed 
bamboo,  and  other  national  dishes,  is  washed  down 
with  saki,  the  native  beverage.  All  are  much  pleased 
with  the  enjoyable  but  entirely  decent  actions  of  the 
waiting  and  dancing  girls,  and  it  is  late  when  we  re- 
turn to  the  hotel  in  high  spirits. 

Sunday,  April  1st. — We  leave  the  hotel  at  nine  in 
the  morning  to  drive  to  the  academy  of  Professor 
Kano,  the  most  celebrated  teacher  of  inado,  which  is 
similar  to,  but  has  greatly  succeeded,  the  well-known 
game  of  jiu  jitsu.  Here  we  stay  almost  one  hour  and 
a  half,  the  professor  explaining  all  the  details  and 
theories  of  the  game  by  practical  demonstration  with 
some  of  his  masters  and  pupils.     Much  interested,  we 


have  to  depart  to  reach  Mr.  Takahashi's  residence  in 
time  for  luncheon.  Mr.  Takahashi  lives  in  pure  Japa- 
nese style  in  a  typical  Japanese  house,  neither  his  wife 
nor  his  children  speaking  anything  but  their  own  lan- 
guage. He  has  invited  some  English-speaking  friends, 
and  we  get  on  very  nicely.  He  shows  us  all  over  his 
house,  his  fine  art  treasures,  etc.,  and  we  sit  down 
Japanese-wise  on  low  cushions  to  partake  of  a  Japanese 
meal,  consisting  entirely  of  strange  little  dishes — now 
already  known  to  us — served  by  a  little  maid  in  front 
of  each  person,  and  we  rise  after  about  an  hour,  all 
rather  stiff,  but  pleasantly  entertained.  Young  Miss 
Takahashi,  a  really  sweet  maiden  of  fifteen,  and  her 
teacher  give  us  some  music  on  an  instrument  looking 
something  like  a  large  harp,  and  then  the  young  lady 
plays  the  piano — all  without  notes,  Japanese  music 
being  taught  by  the  ear  only.  We  depart  at  about 
three  o'clock,  Mother,  Ernst,  and  I  to  pay  two  visits 
(one  to  the  Marchioness  Oyama,  who  had  called  on 
Mother),  and  return  to  the  hotel  toward  six  o'clock. 
Distances  are  enormous,  and  to  make  calls  is  a  time- 
consuming  undertaking.  By  appointment  Mr.  Taka- 
hashi comes  to  the  hotel  at  six  o'clock,  and  I  have  a 
longer  conference  with  him  on  financial  matters,  while 


/>^-<^4i7 


Mother  examines  some  old  prints  which  a  dealer  has 
brought  her.  We  stay  home  for  the  evening  meal  and 
retire  after  dinner  to  our  rooms  to  attend  to  some  cor- 
respondence, etc.,  and  to  get  things  in  order  for  our 
departure  for  Miyanoshita,  planned  for 

Monday,  April  2d. — We  attend  Monday  morning 
to  some  shopping  and  other  matters,  take  an  early 
luncheon,  and  leave  in  the  early  afternoon  for  Miyano- 
shita upon  the  special  train  placed  at  our  disposal  by 
the  Government.  It  is  composed  of  a  comfortable  first- 
class  car,  in  which  the  seats  are  arranged  lengthwise 
(like  in  our  elevated  roads),  a  second-class  car  for  the 
servants  and  guides,  and  a  baggage  car,  and  travels 
through  without  stopping.  I  leave  the  train  on  a  sta- 
tion near  Yokohama,  to  which  latter  city  I  proceed  by 
jinrikisha  (half  an  hour)  to  attend  in  the  evening  a 
banquet  given  by  the  American-Asiatic  Society  to  the 
Viscount  Aoki,  the  new  Ambassador  to  the  United 
States,  who  is  about  to  leave  for  his  post,  and  to  which 
banquet  I  have  been  invited  as  a  guest  of  honor. 
Reaching  Yokohama  at  about  four  o'clock,  I  repair 
to  the  Grand  Hotel,  call  upon  Mrs.  Howard  (the  wife 
of  the  agent  of  the  Pacific  Mail)  and  later  upon  Mr. 
Howard  at  his  office,  and  still  later  find  myself  at  the 


Oriental  Hotel,  where  the  banquet  is  being  given. 
About  forty  members  of  the  American-Asiatic  Society 
are  present,  mostly  American  merchants  of  a  fine  type. 
Mr.  Howard  presides,  the  guests  of  honor  being  the 
Viscount  Aoki,  Mr.  Wilson,  our  Charge  d'Affaires; 
Secretary  of  the  Legation  Laughlin,  the  Mayor  of 
Yokohama,  a  fine  Japanese  gentleman — a  Yale  gradu- 
ate; Consul-General  Miller,  Baron  Kaneko,  Mr.  Den- 
nison,  and  myself.  Again  I  am  called  upon  to  say 
a  few  words  in  response  to  the  drinking  to  my  health. 
I  emphasize  that  I  am  particularly  happy  to  be  pres- 
ent upon  this  occasion,  for,  being  a  German  by  birth, 
I  have  the  same  blood  in  my  veins,  as  the  Viscount- 
ess Aoki  and  her  children  —  a  proud  American  by 
choice  and  adoption,  I  feel  gratified  at  having  the 
opportunity  to  wish  the  new  Ambassador  Godspeed, 
and  a  Japanese  "  by  investment,"  I  cannot  but  feel  glad 
to  be  honored  by  the  American-Asiatic  Association 
upon  my  first  visit  to  this  land  of  a  great  past  and  a 
great  future.  I  also  speak  of  the  many  things  we  have 
in  common  with  this  old  young  nation,  which,  like  the 
United  States,  preaches  the  "  open  door  "  abroad  and 
practices  protection  at  home — which,  like  ourselves, 
though  under  the  sway  of  an  enlightened,  beloved  chief. 


enjoys  a  government  by  the  people,  of  the  people,  for 
the  people,  and  like  ourselves  is  an  advocate  of  the 
"  square  deal."  My  remarks  are  much  applauded  and 
after  the  banquet  all  present  ask  to  be  introduced  to 
me.  I  return  to  the  hotel  late  and  ask  to  be  called 
early,  for  I  intend  to  leave  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing to  join  Mother  and  the  party  at  Miyanoshita, 
from  where  I  have  meantime  received  a  telegram  from 
dear  Mother  advising  me  of  her  safe  arrival  and  tell- 
ing me  how  pleasant  a  mountain  resort  it  appears  to  be. 
Tuesday,  April  jd. — I  rise  early  to  take  the  eight 
o'clock  train  from  Yokohama,  to  which  I  find  a  private 
car  attached  for -my  personal  use.  This  attention  on 
the  part  of  the  railway  is  the  more  appreciated  as  in 
Japan  everybody  appears  to  be  on  the  move,  the  rail- 
way trains  being  always  overcrowded.  After  two 
hours'  ride  (accompanied  by  one  of  our  guides)  we 
reach  Kozu,  where  an  electric  car  is  taken,  which  runs 
into  the  mountain  region.  It  being  a  national  holiday 
— the  anniversary  of  the  birth  of  the  first  Emperor 
some  thousands  of  years  ago — the  villages  along  the 
trolley  line  (and  these  almost  adjoin  one  another)  are 
decorated  in  gay  bunting,  and  are  full  of  processions, 
mostly  formed  by  the  young  men  of  the  village  who. 


dressed  in  white  attire,  carry  holy  shrines  upon  their 
shoulders,  and  half  intoxicated  by  possibly  religious 
enthusiasm,  but  more  probably  by  saki,  swing  to  and 
fro  in  the  narrow  streets  and  make  it  impossible  for  the 
car  to  pass  until  they  are  pushed  aside  forcibly  and 
with  much  difficulty  by  the  elder  populace,  the  latter 
being  evidently  fearful  of  a  collision.  This  repeats  it- 
self in  several  villages,  until  we  reach  another  larger 
village,  where  the  young  fellows  in  great  number,  car- 
rying the  shrine,  absolutely  refuse  to  move  from  the 
tracks.  Three  policemen  appear,  but  can  do  nothing 
against  the  mob.  The  police  captain  draws  his  sword, 
but  is  promptly  set  upon  by  the  crowd,  terribly  beaten, 
and  taken  away  (bleeding  all  over)  in  a  jinrikisha. 
The  other  two  men  are  likewise  badly  handled,  but  in 
the  excitement  the  car  is  enabled  to  move  on.  I  stop 
on  the  way  at  police  headquarters  and  leave  thirty  yen 
for  the  man  who  had  so  courageously  tried  to  assist 
the  movement  of  our  car,  but  am  later  informed  that 
the  men,  having  only  performed  their  duty,  cannot 
accept  any  special  compensation.  This  is  character- 
istic of  everything  governmental  in  Japan;  loyalty  in 
the  strict  performance  of  each  and  every  duty  appears 
self-understood  and  no  one  expects  even  commenda- 


tion  for  duty  ever  so  well  performed.  After  this  inci- 
dent, we  soon  reach  the  end  of  the  electric  line  at 
Umoto,  where  jinrikishas  await  us  to  take  us  farther 
to  Miyanoshita,  a  distance  of  about  four  miles,  and  at 
a  height  of  1,300  feet.  I  prefer,  however,  to  go  on 
foot,  the  mountain  scenery  being  beautiful,  and  am  met 
halfway  up  by  Ernst  Schifif,  who  has  come  to  meet  me 
on  the  road.  We  walk  up  briskly  and  reach  the  Hotel 
Fujiya  after  about  one  and  a  half  hours'  ascent,  in  time 
for  luncheon,  rejoiced  to  be  again  united  with  Mother 
and  the  others  of  our  party.  In  the  afternoon  we 
begin  exploring  the  beautiful  mountain  region,  which 
equals  the  Tyrol  in  grandeur  and  perfect  climate,  the 
atmosphere  being  particularly  dry  and  bracing.  Mrs. 
Budge  in  a  kind  of  Sedan  chair,  carried  by  four 
coolies,  the  others  on  foot — except  Mother,  who  has 
preferred  to  remain  home — we  start  out  briskly  up  a 
mountain,  then  alongside  it,  on  a  bridle  path,  until  we 
reach  a  neat  teahouse  about  500  feet  farther  up.  Here 
we  rest  and  take  tea,  and  then  a  short  cut  home  is 
found,  rather  steep,  on  which  friend  Budge  changes 
with  his  wife  and  takes  to  the  chair,  rather  nervous 
because  of  the  somewhat  wild  descent.  We  reach  the 
hotel  again  shortly  after  five  o'clock,  having  marched 


for  two  hours.  Having  thus  had  three  and  a  half 
hours'  good  walking,  I  reward  myself  with  a  bath  in 
the  natural  hot  water  for  which  this  region  is  famous 
- — the  water  coming  from  the  spring  at  i8o°  is  cooled 
for  bathing  purposes  according  to  requirement.  A 
short  rest  after  the  delicious  bath  brings  the  dinner 
hour  near  and  we  unite  in  a  most  cozy  dining  room 
and  get  a  splendid  dinner  in  occidental  style,  but 
waited  upon  by  a  bevy  of  dainty  English-speaking 
Japanese  girls,  the  proprietor  himself  being  a  Japanese. 
The  hotel  is  kept  in  fine  style,  simple  and  clean,  and 
makes  the  impression  of  a  Swiss  chalet,  the  guests  all 
being  Europeans  and  Americans.  After  dinner  bridge 
is  indulged  in,  in  which  I  join,  and  we  retire  much 
pleased  to  have  come  to  so  beautiful  a  spot  for  a  few 
days'  recreation. 

Wednesday,  April  4th. — A  glorious,  bright,  and 
bracing  morning,  a  blue  sky,  and  everybody  in  buoyant 
spirits.  Big  things  are  planned:  a  tour  to  the  cele- 
brated Lake  Hakone,  where  we  are  promised  a  first 
view  of  Fujiyama,  the  clouded  sky  and  misty  atmos- 
phere having  thus  far  obscured  its  appearance.  Our 
ladies,  however,  strike  against  the  two  and  a  half  hours' 
distance,  nor  do  Sedan  chairs  tempt  them;  even  friend 


Budge  thinks  yesterday's  experience  sufficient.  So 
Neustadt,  Ernst,  and  I,  accompanied  by  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Gordon,  start  out  briskly  at  9.30  o'clock.  Mr.  Gordon 
and  Ernst  before  long  take  to  horses,  which  they  have 
brought  along,  Mrs.  Gordon  to  a  Sedan  chair.  Neu- 
stadt and  I  save  the  honor  of  the  party  and  continue 
the  ascent  on  foot.  The  road  is  good  and  we  get  on 
swimmingly.  The  mountain  scenery  is  again  gran- 
diose, high  rocky  peaks  looking  down  on  narrow  val- 
leys. We  get  a  first  view  of  the  lake,  after  a  two  hours' 
march,  and  another  half  an  hour  brings  us  to  its  shores. 
As  we  suddenly  turn  a  corner  on  the  shore,  Fujiyama 
presents  itself  in  all  its  grandeur,  about  twenty-five 
miles  distant.  The  mountain  is  entirely  covered  with 
snow,  and  with  the  clear  blue  sky  above.  Lake  Hakone 
at  its  feet,  and  surrounded  by  rocky  peaks,  the  impres- 
sion is  imposing.  We  enter  a  pleasant  Japanese  inn, 
situated  in  front  of  the  lake,  and  from  its  glass-inclosed 
piazza  we  get  a  fine  view  of  the  entire  scenery.  The 
guides  have  brought  a  tasty  luncheon  from  our  hotel, 
to  which,  with  an  appetite  stimulated  by  the  rare  air 
and  the  good  march,  we  do  entire  justice.  The  lake 
being  somewhat  rough,  we  do  not  take  to  boats,  as  we 
had  contemplated,  but  rather  walk  a  bit  farther  to  the 


Imperial  Villa,  a  nice  structure,  which  is,  however, 
closed,  and  we  continue  to  the  old  village  of  Hakone, 
a  picturesque-looking  group  of  old  Japanese  houses. 
From  here  we  turn  back  and  return  by  the  road  we 
have  come,  taking  in  on  the  way  an  old  Buddha  carved 
into  the  rock,  situated  in  a  grove  upon  one  of  the 
mountainsides,  and  said  to  be  over  one  thousand  years 
old.  Numerous  small  stone  Buddhas  surround  the 
larger  one,  the  road  being  the  old  highway  between 
Tokio  and  the  south,  and  these  images  having  been 
placed  there  to  be  worshiped  by  the  Daimios  upon 
their  travels.  We  reach  the  hotel  at  four  o'clock,  hav- 
ing been  away  six  and  a  half  hours,  of  which  friend 
Neustadt  and  I  were  fully  five  hours  on  our  feet. 
Neither  of  us  feels  the  worse  for  this;  indeed,  I  am  as 
fresh  as  when  we  started.  Before  dinner  I  take  an- 
other of  the  delicious  hot  baths,  and  as  I  write  this, 
near  midnight,  I  feel  in  fine  form,  not  in  the  least 
fatigued  by  the  day's  exertion. 

Thursday,  April  ^th. — To  our  deep  regret,  this  is 
our  day  of  parting  from  this  enchanting  spot,  our  en- 
gagements at  Tokio  compelling  us  to  return  thither. 
Immediately  after  breakfast  Mother  and  I  mount  a 
hill  behind  the  hotel  from  where  we  get  a  good  view 


of  the  upper  part  of  Fujiyama,  Mother  being  much 
enchanted  with  the  first  impression  of  the  renowned 
mountain.  Coming  back  to  the  hotel,  some  purchases 
Mother  made,  while  I  was  away  yesterday  to  Lake 
Hakone,  subject  to  my  final  approval,  are  gone  over 
and  I  make  a  bargain  with  the  dealer.  The  unpleas- 
ant part  in  buying  is  that  one  is  always  taken  in  as  far 
as  price  is  concerned,  for  whatever  ofifer  one  makes 
is  accepted  and  is,  therefore,  probably  too  high.  A 
deputy  from  the  Governor  of  the  province  is  an- 
nounced, who  has  been  sent  personally  to  hand  me  a 
letter  from  the  Governor  expressing  his  deep  regret  at 
the  occurrence  on  Tuesday,  when  my  car  was  blocked 
by  the  young  roughs  and  the  police  assaulted,  the  Gov- 
ernor assuring  me  that  the  demonstration  was  against 
the  tramway  company  alone  and  in  no  way  anti- 
foreign — which  I  already  was  aware  of.  Luncheon — 
or  rather  Tiffin,  as  they  say  here — having  been  taken, 
we  leave  charming  Miyanoshita  and  its  pleasant  hotel 
with  much  regret,  Mrs.  Neustadt,  Budge,  and  I  on 
foot,  the  others  by  jinrikisha.  After  a  good  hour's 
walk  we  reach  Umoto,  where  the  special  tramcar 
awaits  us.  This  time  we  are  placed  under  "  Polizei- 
aufsicht,"  a  high  police  official  accompanying  us  to 


Kozu,  the  railroad  station,  about  an  hour's  distance, 
which  we  reach  without  any  incident.  The  weather 
is  beautiful,  and  as  the  atmosphere  is  very  clear,  we 
get  repeatedly  on  the  way  fine  views  of  Fujiyama.  In 
Kozu  our  special  train  is  ready  for  us  and  starts 
promptly  for  Tokio,  where  we  arrive  at  about  4.30 
o'clock,  making  the  entire  journey  in  three  and  three- 
quarters  hours,  instead  of  the  five  and  a  half  hours  it 
ordinarily  takes.  We  have  tea  and  a  short  rest  at  the 
hotel  before  we  prepare  to  go  to  Baron  Kaneko's 
house,  where  we  are  invited  to  dinner.  The  Baron 
lives  in  a  neat  but  not  large  Japanese  house,  which 
he  has  arranged  partly  in  occidental  style,  in  some 
rooms  chairs  and  carpets  taking  the  place  of  cushions 
and  matting.  Baroness  Kaneko,  her  two  daughters 
— girls  of  probably  seventeen  and  eighteen  years — and 
her  little  boy  of  ten  years,  do  not  speak  English,  and  it 
makes  a  somewhat  odd  impression  to  converse  with  the 
Baron  in  fluent  English  and  to  be  unable  to  say  a  word 
to  the  members  of  his  family.  But  somehow  we  get  on 
very  well,  Mr.  Sakai,  Baron  Kaneko's  secretary,  whom 
we  had  already  met  in  New  York,  being  present  at 
the  dinner  and  acting  as  interpreter.  The  dinner  is  in 
foreign  style  and  very  good.    After  dinner  we  join  the 


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INVITATION   TO    BALL    GIVEN    BY 
MARQUIS   AND    MARCHIONESS   NABESHIMA 


Baron  for  a  short  while  in  his  cozy  study,  and  soon 
depart  to  go  to  the  ball  given  by  the  Marquis  and 
Marchioness  Nibashima  in  honor  of  Prince  Fernando 
of  Udine,  who  has  recently  arrived  in  charge  of  an 
Italian  man-of-war.  The  Nibashimas  belong  to  the 
high  nobility;  their  palace  is  entirely  occidental  and 
might  be  situated  in  any  European  capital.  We  arrive 
somewhat  late,  dancing  having  already  begun,  but  we 
are  soon  in  the  crowd  and  are  taken  charge  of  by  a 
number  of  our  Japanese  friends,  principally  by  the 
Sonodas,  the  Sagadas,  and  others,  whom  we  have  met 
before.  Mr.  Nagazaki,  the  Imperial  Master  of  Cere- 
monies, recognizes  me  and  asks  to  be  presented  to 
Mother,  and  thereupon  presents  us  to  the  lady  of  the 
house,  a  fat,  middle-aged  Japanese,  who,  with  Mr. 
Nagazaki,  takes  us  to  Prince  Fernando,  a  fine-looking 
young  man,  who  sits  between  two  Imperial  Princesses, 
to  whom  we  are  likewise  presented,  but  who  are  rather 
condescending.  The  whole  diplomatic  corps  being 
there,  we  soon  discover  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wilson,  with 
whom  we  have  a  pleasant  chat,  and  are  presented  to 
a  lot  of  people,  many  of  the  Japanese  nobility  coming 
to  ask  to  be  presented  to  us;  almost  all  of  these  speak 
good  English.    We  also  meet  the  Mayor  of  Tokio  and 


his  wife,  who  is  half  English.  Both  seem  to  wish  to 
be  very  amiable.  Having  had  somewhat  of  a  full  day 
and  the  ladies  being  fatigued,  we  soon  leave  the  inter- 
esting scene  and  return  to  the  hotel. 

Friday,  April  6th,  we  decide  upon  for  a  rest.  The 
ladies  go  on  a  shopping  tour  and  take  a  drive  into 
one  of  the  parks,  which  are  just  beginning  to  put  on 
their  most  beautiful  cherry-blossom  dress,  the  trees 
having  sprung  into  bloom  almost  overnight.  It  is 
an  incomparable  impression  to  see  the  entire  town 
covered  with  cherry  blossoms,  a  delicate  pink  every- 
where you  look,  a  deep  blue  sky  above,  and  all  nature 
rejoicing  in  her  enchanting  spring  dress.  While  the 
ladies  have  gone  on  their  errands,  I  make  a  number 
of  calls  in  the  suburbs,  and  thus  get  likewise  a  fine 
drive  under  rows  and  rows  of  cherry  trees  covered 
with  the  beautiful  blossom.  We  all  take  luncheon 
together  at  the  hotel,  and  afterwards,  following  an 
invitation  of  the  Red  Cross  officers,  Mother,  Budge, 
and  I  pay  a  visit  to  the  Red  Cross  Hospital,  the  larg- 
est hospital  in  Japan.  During  the  war  it  took  charge 
of  all  the  wounded  that  were  brought  to  Tokio,  send- 
ing, moreover,  a  staff  of  3,500  nurses  to  the  front.  We 
are  received  at  the  portal  of  the  hospital  by  Baron 


Osawa,  the  Vice-President,  his  secretary,  who  is  a 
Columbia  graduate,  and  a  number  of  officers  and 
physicians;  are  first  shown  through  the  Administra- 
tion Building  and  then  through  the  rooms  and  wards, 
which  latter  are  only  one  story  high  and  most  prac- 
tically arranged.  Then  we  are  taken,  accompanied 
by  several  military  surgeons,  to  the  adjoining  hospital 
barracks,  in  which  one  thousand  soldiers  are  still  under 
treatment.  Everything  is  admirably  clean  and  the  pa- 
tients are  evidently  entirely  contented.  We  return  to 
the  Administration  Building  and  have  tea  with  the 
officers,  returning  to  the  hotel  in  the  late  afternoon, 
to  enjoy  a  quiet  dinner  and  some  reading  before  we 
retire. 

Saturday,  April  yth. — We  receive  an  early  call 
from  Mr.  Matsuo,  the  Governor  of  the  Bank  of  Japan, 
who  expresses  his  delight  at  the  fine  weather,  which 
favors  the  garden  party  he  and  Mr.  Takahashi  have 
arranged  for  the  afternoon.  On  my  expressing  my 
surprise  and  our  gratification  at  the  manifold  cour- 
tesies offered  us  by  the  Bank  of  Japan  in  particular, 
he  tells  me  we  probably  are  hardly  aware  of  the  im- 
portance of  the  service  my  associates  and  I  have  ren- 
dered the  bank  and   the  country  in   having  had   the 


courage,  at  so  critical  a  period,  to  finance  the  first 
Japanese  war  loan.  He  explains  that  the  gold  re- 
serve of  the  bank  had  at  the  time  of  the  first  loan  been 
rapidly  dwindling  away,  and  that  he  and  his  directors 
saw  before  them  the  abyss  of  a  forced  paper  currency. 
It  was  from  this  danger,  which  threatened  the  bank 
and  the  country  in  May,  1904,  we  had  saved  them, 
and  hence  their  deep  gratitude.  Mr.  Matsuo  depart- 
ing, I  go  to  pay  a  visit  to  Count  Matsukada,  one  of 
the  Elder  Statesmen,  who  has  expressed  a  desire  to 
meet  me  and  with  whom  I  spend  an  interesting  half 
hour;  he  was  Finance  Minister  a  number  of  years  ago 
and  is  the  father  of  the  Japanese  gold  standard;  he 
is  considered  one  of  the  most  able  and  conserva- 
tive financiers  of  the  Empire.  I  had  promised  Mr. 
Wilson,  our  Charge  d'Afifaires,  to  have  a  quiet  talk 
with  him,  on  general  conditions,  at  the  legation.  1, 
go  there  from  Count  Matsukada's.  Mr.  Wilson  gives 
me  some  interesting  inside  history  concerning  Japa- 
nese politics,  and,  upon  his  invitation,  I  remain  for 
luncheon  en  famille  with  himself  and  Mrs.  Wilson, 
a  genial  young  woman,  married  only  two  years.  Re- 
turning to  the  hotel  shortly  after  two  o'clock,  I  find 
the  entire  party  waiting  for  me  to  go  to  the  garden 


/r-^^^'O 


party,  which  the  Bank  of  Japan  has  arranged  in  our 
honor,  at  the  Arsenal  Gardens.  These  gardens  are 
most  unique,  such  as  you  see  sometimes  in  Japanese 
illustrations.  It  is  an  old  park,  formerly  belonging 
to  one  of  the  Daimios  and  now  the  property  of  the 
Government.  Received  there  by  Mr.  Matsuo,  Mr. 
Takahashi,  and  the  directors  of  the  bank,  we  find  a 
large  company,  probably  from  300  to  400  persons, 
assembled,  consisting  mostly  of  the  leading  bankers 
and  some  of  the  dignitaries  of  the  capital  with  their 
wives  and  daughters,  among  others  Marshal  Oyama, 
with  his  daughter,  a  sweet  young  lady,  who  speaks 
English  fluently,  though  she  has  never  been  abroad. 
It  is  a  wonderful  and  bewitching  picture,  this  splendid 
park,  with  its  old  trees,  lakes  spanned  by  little  bridges, 
with  pagodas  and  shrines,  and  between  it  all  this 
mass  of  people,  the  young  girls  in  their  bright  colors, 
tripping  about,  giggling  and  smiling,  the  entire  com- 
pany moving  from  one  amusement  tent  to  the  other, 
here  fencers,  there  acrobats,  magicians,  and  other 
forms  of  popular  entertainment,  leading  up  to  a  gayly 
decorated  tent,  profuse  with  bunting,  American  and 
Japanese  flags,  where  high  tea  is  served  to  the  whole 
company.    The  hours  pass  quickly,  and  as  we  get  ready 


to  leave,  we  are  asked  first  to  sit  for  a  large  photo- 
graphic group,  Marshal  Oyama  being  placed  be- 
tween Mother  and  Mrs.  Budge,  and  evidently  en- 
joying the  whole  thing  immensely.  As  we  slowly 
wander  toward  the  gate,  accompanied  by  many  of  the 
guests,  the  military  band  starts  "  The  Star-Spangled 
Banner"  and  "Columbia,  the  Gem  of  the  Ocean," 
etc.,  everybody  stands  still,  the  men  all  uncover  their 
heads,  and  we  pass  out,  having  had  the  most  enjoyable 
day  in  Japan  since  we  have  come  here.  Mr.  Wilson 
tells  us  in  leaving  that  he  has  been  present  for  the  past 
nine  years  at  almost  every  function,  but  that  he  has 
never  had  the  like  experience.  We  drive  to  the  hotel 
feeling  deeply  touched  at  such  hospitality,  and  after  all 
we  have  enjoyed  during  the  afternoon,  we  are  pleased 
to  pass  the  evening  quietly  among  ourselves. 

Sunday,  April  8th. — A  somewhat  gray  day,  suit- 
able for  spending  the  morning  hours  at  home  to  attend 
to  some  correspondence.  An  hour's  walk  at  eleven 
o'clock  with  Ernst  and  Mr.  Kitashima  to  the  important 
Buddhist  shrine  "  Honganji,"  which  we  had  not  yet 
seen,  and  then  through  what  was  formerly  the  Euro- 
pean settlement  back  to  luncheon  at  the  hotel.  At 
two  o'clock  we  are  expected  at  Mr.  Okura's  residence 


^^^«^SS^I^^^H^li^B^^ 

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— the  merchant  prince  of  Japan — who  has  invited  us 
to  see  his  museum  and  then  to  dine  with  him  at  his 
villa,  on  the  river,  about  five  miles  from  town.  At 
Mr.  Okura's  residence  we  are  received  by  himself,  his 
married  daughter,  and  his  son-in-law,  the  latter  two 
speaking  English,  Mrs.  Okura  not  being  present  on 
account  of  indisposition.  The  Okura  residence  is  the 
finest  purely  Japanese  house  we  have  seen  yet.  It  is 
very  large  and  elegant,  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  gar- 
den, and,  being  built  on  a  hill,  it  commands  a  splendid 
view  of  the  town.  Adjoining  his  residence  Mr.  Okura, 
who  is  said  to  be  very  public-spirited,  has  erected  a 
commercial  high  school,  a  large  building  surrounded 
by  cottages  for  teachers  and  students.  Having  been 
served  with  tea  and  sweets,  as  is  the  custom,  Mr.  Okura 
takes  us  into  his  wonderful  museum,  housed  in  a  sepa- 
rate building  connected  with  the  residence,  where  we 
are  shown  a  unique  collection  of  Japanese  and  Chinese 
curios,  possibly  the  largest  and  most  varied  collection 
of  the  kind  in  existence.  Mr.  Okura  tells  us  he  has 
been  at  it  for  thirty  years  and  has  secured  his  best 
things  after  the  two  or  three  revolutions,  which  have 
taken  place  within  this  period,  when  many  rare  things 
could  be  had,  now  no  longer  obtainable.     We  under- 


stand  that  at  the  beginning  of  the  late  war  Mr.  Okura 
was  willing  to  sell  his  collection  for  two  million  yen 
and  to  contribute  the  entire  sum  toward  the  expenses 
of  the  war,  but  could  find  no  purchaser;  it  is  no  doubt 
worth  more  than  two  millions  now.  While  we  were  in 
the  Okura  museum  the  house  trembled  with  an  earth- 
quake of  several  seconds'  duration;  the  ladies  got  some- 
what nervous,  but  it  passed  without  doing  damage. 
Having  been  with  Mr.  Okura  for  two  hours,  we  leave 
to  meet  him  later  at  his  villa.  We  drive  to  a  landing 
stage  on  the  river  where,  by  appointment,  we  meet 
Mr.  Matsuo  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Takahashi,  with  their 
daughter,  in  a  barge  (with  a  tugboat),  waiting  for  us; 
we  get  into  it  and  have  an  interesting  sail  down  the 
river,  which  is  full  of  pleasure  boats  just  returning 
from  a  regatta.  We  pass  the  celebrated  cherry-blos- 
som banks,  and  meeting  the  boats  in  which  the  Bank 
of  Japan  employees  have  just  rowed  their  regatta,  the 
men,  discovering  us,  begin  a  new  short  return  race  for 
our  benefit.  We  are  cheered  to  the  echo  by  the  people, 
who  line  the  shore  and  who  bring  an  American  flag, 
which  they  frantically  wave,  to  greet  us.  After  a 
while  our  boat  is  moored  alongside  Mr.  Okura's  villa, 
where  we  disembark  and  are  received  by  the  host  and 


a  number  of  his  friends,  with  some  of  whom  we  are 
already  acquainted.  After  a  short  chat,  we  are  asked 
to  the  dining  room,  but  have  first  to  remove  our  shoes, 
as  this  is  a  purely  Japanese  establishment;  we  are  used 
to  this  already.  About  twenty  are  present  and  we 
seat  ourselves  on  low  cushions  alongside  the  walls,  one 
side  of  the  room  being  partitioned  off  by  a  curtain. 
The  first  course  is  served,  low  red  ceremonial  lacquer 
stands  in  beautiful  workmanship  being  placed  before 
each  guest;  then  the  curtain  is  drawn  aside,  and  to  the 
accompaniment  of  somewhat  weird  music  a  short  one- 
act  play  is  performed.  So  it  goes  on,  all  during  the 
dinner,  which  lasts  about  three  and  a  half  hours, 
music,  dancing  by  neat  girls,  and  performances  of 
small  pieces,  all  in  most  serious  style.  After  a  while 
the  dancing  girls  join  the  guests,  placing  themselves 
in  front  of  their  seats,  chatting  gayly,  and  once  in  a 
while  getting  a  nip  at  the  saki  and  dishes.  As  the 
dinner  nears  its  end,  champagne  is  brought  in,  Mr. 
Okura  rises  to  propose  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Schifif's  health 
(in  Japanese,  which  is  translated  by  his  son-in-law), 
and  this  gives  me  a  welcome  opportunity  to  rise  like- 
wise, ostensibly  to  reply,  but  in  reality  to  stretch  a  bit, 
and   the  others,   evidently  profiting  by  my  example. 


^^^H^^               ''i^^S^^^^I 

E'  d^'^    ■ 

P^'''fe>^ 

w^\^M^ 

nMHK 

l^r'      =y/.u,  \     ^^yij^j 

vil 

v^^H^^^^H 

immediately  do  the  same.  Mother  has  stood  the 
ordeal  of  three  and  a  half  hours  on  a  low  cushion 
splendidly.  With  thanks  to  our  kind  host,  and  leave- 
taking  from  the  guests,  we  depart  after  ten  o'clock,  to 
drive  to  town,  which  we  reach  near  midnight,  having 
had  the  pleasant  experience  of  another  phase  of  Japa- 
nese society  life. 

Monday,  April  Qth. — After  a  run  of  fine  weather 
it  rains  to-day  and  we  stay  indoors  during  the  morn- 
ing until  11.30  o'clock,  when  we  have  to  leave  for 
Count  Okuma's  residence  at  Waseda,  a  suburb  of 
Tokio,  an  hour's  drive,  where  we  are  invited  to  lunch- 
eon. Count  Okuma  is  the  leader  of  the  Liberal  party, 
one  of  the  Elder  Statesmen,  and,  with  the  Marquis  Ito 
and  a  few  others,  the  arbiter  of  the  destinies  of  his 
country.  We  are  received  by  the  Count  and  Countess 
in  the  European  annex  of  their  palais,  which  consists 
of  a  Japanese  and  an  occidental  structure,  one  adjoin- 
ing the  other.  The  latter  is  a  palatial  mansion,  richly 
furnished.  In  the  reception  room  into  which  we  are 
ushered  we  find  a  choice  company  assembled,  among 
others  the  Marchioness  Nabishima,  at  whose  ball  we 
met  Prince  Fernando  of  Italy  the  other  evening;  Baron 
and  Baroness  Iwasaki,  Baron  and  Baroness  Shibusawa, 


Mr.  Matsuo,  Mr.  Takahashi,  Mr.  Soyeda,  and  a  num- 
ber of  other  acquaintances,  as  well  as  several  professors 
of  Waseda  University,  which  is  under  Count  Okuma's 
patronage,  and  has  with  its  preparatory  school  an  at- 
tendance of  seven  thousand.  The  luncheon  itself  is  a 
refined  and  magnificent  affair.  The  table  is  decorated 
with  orchids  and  rich  flowers  from  the  Count's  con- 
servatories, the  menus  are  little  works  of  art,  and  the 
whole  has  the  most  aristocratic  impress  that  we  have 
yet  experienced  in  Japan.  The  Count  rises  and  in  (as 
we  are  told  afterwards)  choicest  language  addresses 
his  guests,  explaining  that  Mr.  Schiff's  assistance  in 
saving  the  life  of  the  nation  deserves  his  being  hon- 
ored by  the  entire  nation,  and  proposes  my  own  and 
Mother's  health.  Thereupon  I  rise  to  respond  in  a 
few  appropriate  words,  which  are  translated  by  Mr. 
Fukai,  the  Count's  toast  having  been  interpreted  by 
one  of  the  professors.  I  am  seated  between  the  Count- 
ess Okuma  and  Baroness  Iwasaki,  the  latter  a  sweet, 
English-speaking  young  matron.  Mother  is  placed 
between  the  Count  and  Baron  Iwasaki,  a  polished  man 
of  the  world,  who  is  a  graduate  of  Pennsylvania  Uni- 
versity. After  luncheon  we  repair  to  the  Japanese  part 
of  the  house,  where  the  Count  shows  us  some  of  his  art 


treasures,  but  especially  his  exquisite  and  poetical  floral 
arrangements,  the  meaning  of  which  he  explains  to  us. 
As  it  is  raining  we  cannot  go  into  the  gardens,  but  we 
get  a  good  view  from  the  terrace  and  find  them  to  be 
the  Japanese  gardens  of  our  dreams,  full  of  dwarf  and 
other  native  trees,  waterfalls,  and  many  fine  scenic 
efifects.  We  enter  the  large  conservatories,  which  con- 
tain most  exquisite  flowers  and  plants,  especially  or- 
chids, of  which  the  Count  presents  some  to  Mother. 
We  chat  pleasantly  for  a  while,  and  then  leave,  further 
impressed  by  Japanese  hospitality,  of  which  we  have 
just  enjoyed  the  most  refined  kind.  We  return  to  the 
hotel  and  because  of  the  weather  stay  indoors,  pre- 
paring for  the  holiday  which  begins  this  evening. 
Thoughtful  friend  Neustadt  has  brought  "  Matzoth  " 
from  San  Francisco — we  should  hardly  have  been  able 
to  procure  any  in  Tokio,  as  there  appear  to  be  no 
co-religionists  here — and  as  the  evening  arrives  we  give 
the  "Seder"  in  our  apartments,  probably  the  first 
time  this  has  been  done  in  the  capital  of  the  Mikado. 
Mother  has  prepared  the  festive  table  just  like  at 
home — nothing  is  missing  for  the  ceremonies — and 
with  the  entire  party  around  the  table,  we  read  the 
"  Hagada."    Mrs.  Budge  and  Mrs.  Neustadt,  to  whom 


this   is  something  new,   are   attentive   listeners,    Ernst 

reading  the  youngest  child  part   ("Ma  Nishtano"). 

Thus  in  a  homelike  way  we  celebrate  the  old  festival  i 

in  distant  lands. 

Tuesday,  April  1 0th. — It  still  rains  and  we  remain  , 

indoors   during  the   forenoon,   especially  as  we   have  ' 

to  leave  early  for  Baron  Shibusawa's  country  house, 

an  hour's  drive,  having  an  invitation  there  for  lunch-  , 

eon  at  half  past  eleven  o'clock,  an  afternoon  entertain- 
ment to  follow.  We  reach  Baron  Shibusawa's  house 
toward  noon  and  find  a  company  of  forty  guests,  mostly 
people  we  have  met  before  at  one  or  the  other  func- 
tions given  in  our  honor.  Though  it  is  raining,  we  are  i 
shown  by  the  Baron  and  Baroness  over  the  extensive 

gardens,  and  the  entire  company  then  assembles  in  a  I 

pavilion,  erected  specially  for  the  purpose  of  this  func- 
tion, most  tastefully  decorated,  and  heated  and  lighted  ^ 
by  electricity.    We  sit  down  to  a  fine  luncheon  in  for-  i 
eign  style,  I  being  placed  between  the  hostess   (who 
speaks  only  Japanese)  and  Mrs.  Neustadt,  and  Mother 
between  the  host  and  Mr.  Neustadt.     At  the  close  of 

the  luncheon  the  Baron   rises  and  says,  among  other  ' 

things  (he  is  a  man  of  about  seventy-five  years),  that  it 
is  now  fifty-three  years  since  Japan's  gates  were  opened  j 


to  foreign  nations,  and  that  at  that  time  he  was  fore- 
most among  those  who  were  opposed  to  opening  the 
gates.  But  he  had  long  ago  found  out  that  it  was 
well  that  his  counsel  did  not  prevail,  and  that  instead 
Japan  had  acquired  the  friendship  and  good  will  of 
foreign  nations,  especially  of  America  and  her  people. 
He  pays  a  tribute  to  me  for  what  I  have  done  for 
Japan  and  drinks  to  our  health.  I  reply  appropriately, 
saying  how  good  a  thing  it  is  for  my  friends  and  me 
that  we  only  meet  the  Baron  now,  instead  of  fifty-three 
years  ago,  when  he  would  hardly  have  shown  us  such 
splendid  hospitality  as  he  does  to-day.  Luncheon 
coming  to  an  end,  we  are  taken  to  the  Japanese  part 
of  the  house,  where  we  squat  on  the  floor  and  become 
spectators  of  a  very  amusing  variety  show,  geisha  girls 
dancing  and  acting,  musicians  and  some  very  clever 
jugglers  performing.  Finance  Minister  Sakatani  sits 
by  me  on  the  floor  and  explains  some  of  the  perform- 
ances, and  at  the  same  time  we  discuss  serious  finan- 
cial affairs — a  somewhat  ludicrous  situation.  Time 
passes  rapidly,  and  we  take  our  leave  at  five  o'clock, 
the  entire  company,  as  is  the  custom,  accompanying 
us  to  the  door.  On  our  way  to  the  hotel  we  pay  a 
visit  to  Mrs.  Wilson  at  the  American  Legation,  and 


we  reach  home  at  half  past  six  o'clock,  just  in  time  to 
prepare  for  dinner,  which  we  take  quietly  at  the  hotel. 
After  dinner  Mr.  Takahashi  makes  his  appearance  to 
discuss  some  business  matters,  and  remains  until  late, 
explaining  to  Mother  a  number  of  Japanese  social  and 
family  customs,  about  which  she  seeks  information 
from  him. 

Wednesday,  April  I Ith. — This  is  the  day  we  have 
set  for  our  departure  for  Nikko,  arrangements  having 
been  made  for  our  special  train  to  leave  in  the  after- 
noon. Mother  uses  the  morning  hours  to  visit  a 
curio  dealer,  who  has  been  specially  recommended  by 
Baron  Kaneko,  while  I  go  to  inspect  the  Imperial 
University,  where  I  am  received  and  shown  about  by 
Professor  Nurzuri,  a  graduate  of  Yale  and  Johns 
Hopkins.  The  university  is  an  enormous  complex  of 
buildings  in  the  style  of  our  American  university 
buildings  and  in  extent  probably  larger  than  Harvard 
or  Columbia.  I  am  informed  that  the  attendance  em- 
braces 3,500  undergraduates  and  500  postgraduates. 
The  apparatus  of  the  university  seems  to  be  very  com- 
plete and  up  to  date,  and  I  am  shown  a  number  of 
most  interesting  departments.  A  large  medical  school 
and  hospital  forms  an  annex  to  the  university,  which 


is  not  endowed,  but  supported  exclusively  by  the  Gov- 
ernment. Its  budget  amounts  to  about  1,200,000  yen 
a  year,  the  average  salaries  of  the  professors  being 
about  3,000  yen.  I  cannot  see  all  there  is,  as  it  gets 
to  be  time  to  return  to  the  hotel  and  prepare  for  our 
departure.  After  luncheon  at  the  hotel  we  repair  to 
the  station,  where  we  find  our  special  train  in  readi- 
ness. This  is  a  private  railway,  but  it  has  readily 
acted  upon  the  suggestion  of  the  Government  to  sup- 
ply a  special  train,  which  latter  is  exceptionally  com- 
fortable, and  we  reach  Nikko  toward  seven  o'clock  in 
the  evening.  Here  we  find  it  rather  cold,  it  being 
north  and  in  the  mountains,  but  the  hotel  appears  to 
be  cheery  and  well  kept,  and  we  look  forward  to  the 
morrow  with  pleasant  expectations.  This  is  said  to  be 
a  good  place  for  curios,  and  we  understand  the  makers 
have  been  busy  night  and  day  turning  out  a  good  sup- 
ply— especially  of  rare  old  curios — in  anticipation  of 
our  coming  here. 

Thursday,  April  I2th. — A  bright  day  and  bracing 
atmosphere,  so  right  after  breakfast  the  entire  party 
start  for  the  temples,  Nikko  being  renowned  for  the 
finest  Buddha  shrines,  erected  by  the  famous  Tokugawa 
family  some  260  years  ago;  the  well-known  crest  of 


this  family  (three  leaves)  is  found  on  the  best  old 
lacquer  work  of  Japan.  A  beautiful  avenue  of  cryp- 
tomeria  trees  leads  to  the  temple  court.  The  main 
temple  is  splendidly  decorated,  somewhat  too  much 
perhaps,  but  the  carved  woodwork  and  the  collections 
of  personal  belongings  of  the  first  Shogun  of  the  Toku- 
gawa  family  are  all  very  fine.  The  most  impressive 
part,  however,  is  the  mausoleum,  to  which  leads  a 
flight  of  some  200  stone  steps  between  a  grove  of  im- 
mense cedars.  The  mausoleum  is  of  bronze,  of  com- 
parative simplicity.  It  took  us  almost  two  and  a  half 
hours  to  view  the  temple,  its  annexes,  and  the  mauso- 
leum, so  we  had  just  time  to  return  to  the  hotel  for 
luncheon.  The  ladies  preferring  to  take  it  easy  in 
the  afternoon,  Budge,  Neustadt,  and  I  conclude  to 
walk  to  Kirifuri  Cascade,  about  one  and  a  half  hours 
distant.  The  way  leads  through  some  fine  mountain 
scenery,  ending  at  the  cascade,  which  in  itself  is  not 
a  great  affair,  but  the  view,  overlooking  several  fine 
valleys,  with  a  circle  of  high  rough  peaks  surround- 
ing them,  is  superb.  Taking  tea  at  a  little  teahouse 
situated  there,  we  return  on  the  same  road  we  have 
come  and  reach  the  hotel  after  a  full  two  and  a  half 
hours'  walk  in  the  late  afternoon,  none  the  worse  for 


our  day's  work,  although  we  have  been  for  five  hours 
on  our  feet.  Entering  the  dining  room  for  the  even- 
ing meal,  we  find  Prince  Fernando  of  Italy,  who 
had  arrived  during  the  afternoon  with  his  suite,  but 
though  we  were  presented  to  him  last  week  at  the 
ball  of  the  Marchioness  Nabishima,  he  does  not  ap- 
pear to  recognize  us  and  we  make  no  advances.  After 
dinner  I  join  the  other  gentlemen  in  a  game  of  bridge, 
and  though  I  am  still  an  inexperienced  player,  I  gen- 
erally manage  to  help  out  to  entire  satisfaction. 

Friday,  April  IJth. — A  clear  but  somewhat  windy 
day,  suitable  for  a  short  excursion.  Accordingly,  after 
breakfast  our  entire  party  starts  out  for  Noami  Water- 
falls. The  road  is  easy,  ascending  steadily  through 
a  picturesque  valley  encircled  by  mountains.  After 
an  hour's  march  the  ladies,  getting  somewhat  fatigued 
in  consequence  of  the  wind,  decide  to  return  with  one 
of  the  guides,  the  men  continuing  to  the  foot  of  the 
falls,  which  are  reached  about  a  mile  farther  on,  a  walk 
of  one  and  a  quarter  hours  from  Nikko.  Budge  and 
Neustadt  rest  at  the  teahouse  (Ernst  has  taken  another 
road  to  some  copper-refining  works),  while  I  continue 
through  a  picturesque  gorge  to  the  main  falls  about 
ten  minutes  farther  upon  a  somewhat  steep  bridle  path. 


After  rejoining  my  comrades  at  the  teahouse,  we  start 
upon  the  return,  reaching  the  hotel  toward  one  o'clock, 
where  we  find  the  ladies  somewhat  tired,  but  none  the 
worse  for  the  fine  forenoon  outing.  After  such  "  tre- 
mendous "  exercise,  it  is  decided  that  all  deserve  a 
restful  afternoon.  In  consequence,  we  stay  indoors  and 
later  take  a  stroll  through  the  village  to  the  Industrial 
Exhibition  Building,  which  is  unimportant,  and  we 
visit  some  of  the  many  curio  shops,  returning  to  the 
hotel  for  tea,  and  remain  home  to  chat  and  read  after 
dinner. 

Saturday,  April  14th. — Another  fine  day,  which 
it  is  decided  shall  be  devoted  to  the  remaining  temples. 
The  entire  party  starts  out  toward  ten  o'clock  and  we 
soon  find  ourselves  upon  the  picturesque  hill,  where 
the  temples  are  built  adjacent  to  each  other.  This  time 
we  visit  the  temple  of  the  third  Shogun,  with  the  mau- 
soleum, which  resembles  that  of  the  first  Shogun,  his 
grandfather,  except  that  it  is  still  simpler.  Nor  is  the 
temple  quite  as  richly  decorated,  it  being  said  that  the 
grandson  did  not  wish  to  overshadow  his  grandfather. 
We  return  through  charming  Nikko  Park — a  unique 
piece  of  landscape  in  pure  Japanese  style,  with  a  most 
attractive  view  upon   the   mountains — and    reach   the 


hotel  in  time  for  luncheon,  having  been  absent  for  al- 
most three  hours.  In  the  afternoon  the  ladies  again 
go  into  the  village  and  the  shops,  while  Budge,  Neu- 
stadt,  Ernst,  and  I  take  a  walk  to  the  Vermilli  Cascade, 
near  which  is  located  the  old  Takinoo  temple,  a  Shinto 
shrine.  The  road  constantly  rising  forms  an  avenue 
between  tall  cryptomeria  trees  until  the  cascade  is 
reached,  a  most  romantic  spot,  where  the  simple  temple 
is  guarded  by  an  old  priest  and  his  young  grand- 
daughter, the  guardian  receiving,  as  he  tells  us,  the 
magnificent  pay  of  3.70  yen  a  month.  It  is  hard  to 
understand  how  people,  all  over  Japan,  can  subsist 
upon  the  insignificant  pay  they  receive.  We  return 
by  a  different  road,  and  arriving  at  the  hotel  after  an 
absence  of  about  one  and  a  half  hours,  we  find  the 
ladies  upon  the  terrace  taking  tea  and  enjoying  the 
magnificent  sunset,  which  produces  a  unique  picture. 
The  narrow  valley  below,  with  the  rapids  formed  by 
the  river,  which  forces  its  way  through  the  valley;  the 
little  town  somewhat  in  the  distance  with  the  snow- 
covered  mountains  overshadowing  it;  the  huge  crypto- 
merias  with  their  dark  green  foliage,  all  these  present 
a  picture  most  beautiful,  impressive,  and  not  soon  to  be 
forgotten.     But  the  sun  has  disappeared,  and  it  is  well 


to  go  indoors.  We  again  pass  the  evening  in  conversa- 
tion with  some  of  the  guests  whom  we  have  met  before, 
a  game  of  bridge,  and  the  hour  for  retiring  has  arrived. 
Sunday,  April  I^th. — Again  the  weather  is  glori- 
ous, and  we  decide  to  undertake  the  somewhat  arduous 
but  famed  tour  to  Lake  Chuzenji,  situated  about  eight 
miles  from  Nikko  at  an  altitude  of  4,300  feet  (2,300 
feet  higher  than  Nikko).  We  start  shortly  after  nine 
o'clock,  Mr.  Gordon,  Ernst,  and  I  on  foot  (Mr.  Neu- 
stadt  also  starts  with  us,  but  he  gives  out  after  about 
four  miles  and  returns).  Mother,  Mrs.  Budge,  and 
Mrs.  Gordon  in  jinrikishas  to  Umagaeshi,  where  a 
short  halt  is  made,  the  ladies  changing  here  to  sedan 
chairs,  carried  by  four  coolies  each,  as  the  ascent 
from  here  is  somewhat  steep.  The  gentlemen  con- 
tinue on  foot,  and  we  all  reach  the  lake  toward  one 
o'clock  in  fine  condition,  ready  for  luncheon,  which 
we  find  at  a  nice  inn,  very  fairly  kept,  in  foreign  style, 
for  such  an  out-of-the-way  place.  The  views  from  the 
road  up  the  mountain  are  most  picturesque.  The  lake 
itself  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  about  eight  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, surrounded  by  dense  woods,  forming  very 
romantic  scenery.  Having  rested  for  one  and  a  half 
hours,  we  start  upon  the  return  at  half  past  two  o'clock. 


Mrs.  Budge  joining  the  pedestrians.  We  view  the 
cascade  of  Kegon-no-Taki  near  the  summit,  which 
empties  into  a  dark  rocky  pool  250  feet  below.  Keep- 
ing steadily  upon  our  way,  and  taking  advantage  of  a 
number  of  cut-ofYs,  we  reach  the  hotel  at  6.30  o'clock, 
having  covered  a  total  of  fifteen  miles  and  been  six 
and  a  half  hours  on  our  feet.  The  ladies  are  likewise 
none  the  worse  for  their  long  jinrikisha  and  chair  ride, 
and  we  all  feel  in  fine  spirits  because  of  the  beautiful 
outing  we  have  enjoyed.  This  being  the  eve  of  the 
last  day  of  "  Pesach,"  prayers  are  said  in  our  rooms 
and  the  evening  spent  in  pleasant  conversation  and 
reading. 

Monday,  April  i6th. — It  rains  hard  and  we  are 
compelled  to  remain  indoors,  except  that  some  little 
time  is  spent  in  the  shops,  some  of  which  display  the 
finest  things  we  have  yet  seen  in  Japan.  Aside  from 
reading,  bridge  playing,  and  planning,  nothing  can  be 
done,  as  the  rain  continues  throughout  the  day. 

Tuesday,  April  ijth. — This  must  be  our  last  day 
in  these  beautiful  and  impressive  surroundings,  which 
have  given  us  so  exceptional  an  impression  of  Japanese 
scenery,  of  Buddha  temples,  and  of  the  customs  and 
costumes  of  the  people.    To-day  is  a  special  festival; 


the  populace  of  the  village  and  the  surrounding  coun- 
try appear  in  their  gala  dress,  the  children,  partic- 
ularly the  girls,  in  bright  colors,  the  roads  and  streets 
being  filled  with  people.  At  ten  o'clock  a  procession, 
carrying  a  shrine,  appears,  and  we  follow  it  to  the 
temple  hill.  The  music  accompanying  the  procession 
resembles  somewhat  the  Scotch  drum  and  fife,  and 
upon  its  appearance  before  the  main  temple,  a  number 
of  Buddhist  priests  come  out  of  it,  the  high  priest  in 
scarlet,  his  assistants  in  white,  and  march  around  the 
open  space,  shortly  entering  an  enclosure,  where  we 
are  told  the  priests  will  remain  until  all  the  shrines, 
twelve  in  number,  will  have  appeared  and  then  the 
festivities  will  take  place.  Unfortunately  we  cannot 
await  this,  and  must  return  to  the  hotel  to  prepare  for 
our  departure  soon  after  midday.  We  all  agree  that 
we  have  never  seen  a  more  orderly  crowd.  Drunkards 
and  beggars  appear  to  be  unknown  in  Japan;  the  re- 
spect for  the  aged  is  most  touching;  the  children  of 
the  street,  who  appear  to  be  without  number,  are  al- 
ways modest,  always  shy,  and  it  is  a  pleasing  spectacle 
to  see  the  elder  children  carefully  guarding  and  lead- 
ing the  younger  ones.  We  leave  pleasant  Nikko  after 
luncheon,  the  entire  party  —  except  myself  —  taking 


jinrikishas  for  a  distance  of  five  miles,  while  I  go  on 
foot,  to  enjoy  the  beautiful  avenue  of  cryptomerias, 
said  to  extend  in  all  for  fifteen  miles.  Then  we  enter 
the  train  which  awaits  us,  and  soon  we  are  en  route 
to  Tokio,  being  met  about  halfway  by  the  superin- 
tendent of  the  railroad,  who  accompanies  us  to  Tokio, 
where  we  arrive  at  half  past  seven  o'clock  just  in  time 
for  dinner.  Later  in  the  evening  Mr.  Takahashi  pays 
us  a  visit,  and  remains  till  late  discussing  various  sub- 
jects, principally  the  plan  to  send  his  young  daughter 
with  us  to  America,  so  that  she  may  obtain  a  foreign 
education. 

Wednesday,  April  l8th. — Tokio  hails  our  return 
with  bright  sunshine,  most  welcome  after  two  days  of 
rain.  Little  can  be  done  in  the  forenoon,  and  as 
Mother  wants  to  attend  to  some  correspondence,  I 
look  at  some  shops  with  Mrs.  Budge  and  take  a  short 
walk  before  I  call  for  Mother  and  the  rest  of  the 
party  to  drive  to  Baron  Iwasaki's  villa,  where  we  have 
been  invited  to  luncheon.  The  Iwasakis  are  at  the 
head  of  the  shipping  industry  of  Japan,  of  which  they 
have  been  the  founders,  and  with  the  Mitsuis  and 
Shibusawas  form  the  money  aristocracy  of  Japan,  and 
they  are  said  to  be  socially  the  most  exclusive.     The 


(_^^V^^c■'1^7^ 


villa,  where  the  luncheon  is  given,  is  one  of  a  num- 
ber owned  and  occupied  at  divers  seasons  by  Baron 
Iwasaki,  who  is  a  comparatively  young  man,  a  gradu- 
ate of  Pennsylvania  University,  and  a  perfect  man  of 
the  world.  The  Baroness  is  an  attractive  Japanese 
lady,  who  speaks  some  English  and  makes  a  charming 
hostess.  We  meet  there  Mr.  Kato  and  his  wife — the 
latter  being  a  sister  of  Baron  Iwasaki.  Mr.  Kato  was 
formerly  Ambassador  to  England,  and  lately  Minister 
of  Foreign  AfTairs,  having  resigned  about  a  month 
ago  because  of  his  strong  opposition  to  the  Railway 
Nationalization  Bill,  a  Government  measure.  I  am 
seated  between  the  hostess  and  Mrs.  Kato,  Mother 
between  the  host  and  Mr.  Kato,  and  we  much  enjoy 
conversation  with  these  well-informed  people.  After 
luncheon  we  are  shown  through  the  conservatory  and 
its  annex,  the  latter  containing  a  choice  collection  of 
rare  Chinese  porcelain.  A  promenade  is  then  made 
through  the  extensive  park,  which  is  laid  out  most 
tastefully  and  attractively,  and  includes  a  large  lake, 
spanned  by  artistically  built  bridges,  and  we  finally 
find  ourselves  in  the  Japanese  annex,  where  tea  and 
refreshments  are  served,  and  a  short  rest  is  enjoyed, 
after  which  we  take  leave,  as  we  must  return  to  the 


hotel  to  prepare  for  the  banquet  which  the  Mayor 
and  aldermen  of  the  city  have  tendered  us.  Mother 
takes  a  short  rest,  and  shortly  after  six  o'clock  we 
proceed  to  the  Maple  Club  and  are  received  by  the 
Mayor  and  the  aldermen,  as  well  as  the  Governor 
of  the  province,  a  number  of  ladies — none  of  whom, 
however,  speak  English — being  also  present.  A  Japa- 
nese dinner  in  best  style  is  then  served,  with  the 
requisite  geisha  girls  in  attendance,  and  during  the 
dinner  an  interesting  performance  by  a  mimic  and 
dancing  take  place;  but  we  have  seen  by  this  time 
rather  too  much  entertaining  in  purely  Japanese  style, 
and  we  are  therefore  somewhat  pleased  with  the  pros- 
pect that  this  will  likely  be  the  last  dinner  "  on  the 
floor,"  with  food  not  entirely  adapted  to  our  stomach 
and  taste.    We  return  home  at  ten  o'clock. 

Thursday,  April  IQth. — Again  the  day  is  bright. 
Mother  wishes  to  visit  Mrs.  Katseda's  (a  friend  of 
Mrs.  Imanishi)  girl  school,  some  distance  from  the 
city,  Ernst  accompanying  her,  and  as  I  have  some 
shopping  and  visiting  to  do,  we  arrange  to  meet  at 
12.30  o'clock  at  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sonoda's  house,  where 
we  are  invited  to  luncheon.  Mr.  Sonoda,  formerly 
President  of  the  Specie  Bank,  now  the  President  of 


the  Nobles'  Bank,  is  one  of  the  best-known  financiers 
in  Japan  and  apparently  very  popular.  He  has  lived 
for  a  number  of  years  with  his  family  in  London, 
where  he  was  consul-general.  During  the  late  war 
he  set  an  example,  taking  his  gold  and  silverware  to 
be  melted  down  for  the  purpose  of  the  war  fund, 
which  example  others  to  a  considerable  extent  fol- 
lowed. Mrs.  Sonoda,  who  like  her  husband  speaks 
English  fluently,  is  a  very  charming  woman.  She  fre- 
quently has  helped  us  out  as  interpreter  with  the  other 
ladies  when  we  met  her  at  social  gatherings.  It  is  a 
family  luncheon  we  have  with  them  to-day,  only  one 
other  couple  and  Mr.  Fukai  being  present  besides  our 
party.  The  afifair  is  very  sociable,  and  after  luncheon 
we  repair  to  the  garden,  where  we  are  photographed 
(by  a  professional)  as  a  group.  Then  we  are  shown 
over  the  grounds,  and  finally  young  Sonoda  and  some 
friends  have  a  game  of  jitsuyu  for  our  entertainment. 
It  is  the  football  game  of  young  Japan,  but  much 
gentler  and  apparently  more  athletic  than  ours.  We 
return  to  the  hotel  toward  five  o'clock,  where,  to 
our  great  gratification,  we  find  a  large  American 
mail  awaiting  us,  which  we  can  hardly  finish  read- 
ing  before   we   have   to   dress   for   dinner,    to   which 


we  are  invited  by  the  Mitsui  family  at  their  club, 
which  the  twelve  branches  of  this  powerful  family 
have  founded  for  their  own  exclusive  use  and  where 
they  give  their  entertainments.  To-night  the  invi- 
tation is  from  Baron  and  Baroness  H.  Mitsui,  the 
head  of  the  house,  which  had  its  origin  some  three 
hundred  years  ago.  At  the  dinner  about  thirty  are 
present.  Mother  being  placed  between  Baron  Mit- 
sui and  Baron  Kaneko,  I  between  the  Baroness  and 
Mrs.  Sonoda.  The  former  does  not  speak  English, 
and  again  Mrs.  Sonoda  acts  as  interpreter  for  me 
in  the  conversation.  The  dinner  is  in  e.xquisite  for- 
eign style,  and  at  its  conclusion  Baron  Mitsui  says  a 
few  words,  drinking  Mother's  and  my  health,  as  well 
as  that  of  our  friends,  to  which  I  reply  appropriately. 
After  dinner  we  are  ushered  into  the  entertainment 
hall,  where  two  artists — one  being  Kiokuko  Kawabata, 
said  to  be  one  of  the  most  renowned  artists  in  Japan 
— are  at  work  painting  panels  to  demonstrate  this 
kind  of  art  for  our  entertainment.  The  guests  sug- 
gest the  subjects — Mother  asking  for  a  cherry-blossom 
branch,  which  is  rapidly  and  exquisitely  produced  by 
Mr.  Kiokusku,  who  also  paints  at  my  suggestion  some 
birds — a  hen  helping  a  little  chick  to  break  through  its 


eggshell  under  a  rising  sun.  We  are  promised  that  the 
two  panels  will  be  sent  us  when  mounted.  It  is  really 
wonderful  what  these  Japanese  do  to  entertain  their 
guests.  We  have  now  again  received  a  new  demon- 
stration of  this.  However,  Mr.  Wilson,  the  American 
Charge  d'Aflfaires,  said  to  me  at  the  Mitsui  dinner 
to-night  that  many  people  might  be  for  years  in  Japan 
without  getting  such  opportunities  as  we  had  enjoyed 
in  less  than  the  month  of  our  presence  in  the  country. 
Friday,  April  20th. — This  is  the  day  of  the  Im- 
perial cherry-blossom  party,  and  it  is  therefore  doubly 
gratifying  that  sunshine  again  greets  us.  The  fore- 
noon hours  are  occupied  by  various  minor  matters. 
We  leave  the  hotel  shortly  before  noon  to  take  lunch- 
eon with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wilson  at  the  American  Lega- 
tion, where  we  find  a  number  of  American  naval  and 
military  officers.  Admiral  Train  and  General  Brooke, 
with  their  ladies,  among  the  number.  A  pleasant  hour 
and  a  half  is  spent  at  the  luncheon  table,  and  all  leave 
toward  two  o'clock  for  the  detached  Palace  Park, 
where  the  Imperial  cherry-blossom  party  is  to  be 
held.  The  streets  are  lined  by  a  considerable  multi- 
tude, who  watch  the  passing  carriages  and  jinrikishas, 
and  before  long  we  reach  the  Palace  Park  gate,  where 


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we  alight.  A  considerable  number  of  people  are  al- 
ready in  the  park,  mostly  foreigners,  the  Japanese 
ladies  being  conspicuously  absent.  We  are  told  the 
reason  for  this  is  the  fact  that  ladies  have  either  to 
wear  the  old-fashioned  court  dress  and  coiffure,  which 
are  unbecoming,  or  European  toilettes,  which  only  few 
possess.  However,  there  are  a  good  number  of  Japa- 
nese gentlemen  and  some  Japanese  ladies  in  European 
toilettes,  which  to  many  are  unbecoming.  We  meet 
many  acquaintances,  both  foreign  and  Japanese.  The 
park  looks  perfect,  the  cherry  blossoms  are  beautiful, 
and  everybody  is  in  good  spirits.  Before  long  the  pro- 
cession appears,  headed  by  some  courtiers,  then  the 
Emperor  in  uniform,  followed  by  the  Empress  (a 
very  small  lady,  rather  old  in  appearance),  the  Crown 
Prince,  Crown  Princess,  Princes,  and  Princesses  of  the 
suite,  the  diplomatic  corps,  with  their  ladies,  closing 
the  procession.  Mr.  Nagasaki,  the  Imperial  Master 
of  Ceremonies,  discovering  Mother,  offers  her  his 
arm,  and  with  him  she  follows  the  procession,  which 
terminates  at  an  open  space  in  the  park,  where  tables 
are  arranged  for  the  entertainment  of  the  guests,  who 
number  probably  over  five  thousand  and  who  quickly 
occupy  the  tables.     Meantime  the  Empress  and  her 


suite  have  entered  an  open  pavilion,  the  Emperor  re- 
maining at  its  entrance,  and  the  presentation  of  the 
diplomatic  corps,  with  their  ladies  and  a  few  distin- 
guished guests,  to  the  Empress  proceeds.  Some  Amer- 
ican ladies  being  presented  by  the  Charge  d'Afifaires 
and  his  wife.  Mother  expresses  her  surprise  that  she  is 
not  among  the  number.  I  then  learn  from  the  Charge 
d'Afifaires,  Mr.  Wilson,  that  he  had  been  under  the 
impression  our  Japanese  friends  had  arranged  for 
Mother's  presentation  and  had  therefore  not  applied 
for  her,  it  being  now  too  late  to  do  this.  Mother  had 
meanwhile  taken  a  seat  at  one  of  the  tables  with  the  rest 
of  our  party,  Mr.  Takahashi  and  other  Japanese  friends 
joining  the  party.  To  the  latter  I  mention  what  has 
happened,  whereupon  Mr.  Takahashi  disappears  and 
soon  returns  with  Mr.  Nagasaki,  with  the  Viscount 
Inaba  and  the  latter's  daughter,  who  is  one  of  the 
ladies  of  honor  of  the  Empress,  her  father  being  the 
special  master  of  ceremony  of  the  occasion.  They 
all  express  their  regret  at  the  misunderstanding,  of 
which,  they  said,  they  had  just  informed  the  Empress, 
who  had  asked  particularly  that  Mother  be  presented 
to  her  upon  her  return  from  the  tea  tent,  to  which  the 
Empress  had  gone  upon  the  conclusion  of  the  regular 


reception.  Meantime  refreshments  are  being  served, 
and  Mother  and  I  are  presented  by  Vice-Minister  of 
Foreign  Affairs  Chinda  to  Admiral  Togo,  a  small, 
rather  shy  man.  I  am  also  introduced  to  many  leading 
men,  to  Marshal  Yamagata,  General  Count  Katsura, 
and  others,  some  of  whom  speak  German  fluently. 
After  a  little  while  the  guests  all  rise  and  form  queue, 
the  Imperial  party  again  appearing  in  procession. 
Mr.  Nagasaki  comes  and  asks  that  Mother  and  I  stand 
in  the  front;  the  Empress  appears  and  advances  toward 
Mother,  who  is  then  presented  to  her  by  Mrs.  Wilson, 
Mr.  Nagasaki  presenting  me;  and  after  a  short  con- 
versation the  procession  moves  on.  Mother  blushes 
as  everybody  comes  to  congratulate  her — such  a  thing 
being  unprecedented — that  the  Empress  has  stopped 
the  procession  to  have  a  lady  specially  presented  to  her, 
and  we  learn  afterwards  it  has  been  the  talk  for  a  day 
in  diplomatic  circles.  We  soon  are  on  our  way  home, 
as  we  have  to  attend  a  dinner  at  Mr.  Soyeda's,  presi- 
dent of  the  Industrial  Bank.  We  reach  there  shortly 
after  seven  o'clock,  and  find  a  most  cozy  Japanese 
house,  the  guests  being  few,  Mr.  Soyeda  having  in- 
formed us  in  advance  that  he  wanted  us  all  to  himself 
and   his   family.     There   are   present,    however,    two 


ladies,  graduates  of  Bryn  Mawr,  both  most  intelligent 
and  sympathetic.  The  younger,  a  Miss  Kawai,  gradu- 
ated only  two  years  ago,  and  we  learn  that  she  has 
been  a  classmate  of  our  friends,  the  Goldman  girls. 
The  elder  is  the  principal  of  a  young  ladies'  school,  and 
the  younger  has  become  one  of  her  teachers.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Soyeda,  with  a  young  daughter,  are  most  pleas- 
ant, and  they  have  converted  their  Japanese  dining 
room  into  European  style  for  our  reception.  We  are 
served  with  an  excellent  dinner,  after  which  we  go  into 
the  upper  rooms,  where,  however,  we  have  to  sit  Japa- 
nese fashion.  As  no  Japanese  luncheon  or  dinner 
party  appears  to  be  complete  without  an  entertain- 
ment, we  soon  listen  to  some  Japanese  music,  after 
which  we  are  treated  to  the  tea  ceremonial,  which  is 
a  special  honor  in  a  Japanese  home.  The  evening  ends 
with  some  free-hand  painting  of  panels  by  a  young 
lady  artist.  As  we  enter  our  carriages,  a  little  package 
is  handed  to  each  guest,  and  upon  opening  these  pack- 
ages upon  our  return  home,  we  find  each  to  contain 
an  exquisite  silk  embroidery.  Moreover,  the  following 
morning  the  panels  which  have  been  painted  for  our 
entertainment,  and  which  are  quite  dainty,  are  sent  to 
us  by  Mr.  Soyeda,  a  most  genial  host  indeed.    Unfor- 


tunately  this  pleasant  day  ends  with  news  from  San 
Francisco  that  the  city  has  become  destroyed  by  an 
earthquake,  rumors  of  which  sad  tidings  had  already 
been  current  for  twenty-four  hours,  without  it  being 
possible  to  get  anything  definite.  What  is  man,  with 
all  his  ambitions  and  aspirations!  One  single  minute 
upsets  all! 

Saturday,  April  2ist. — The  sun  shines  bright,  and 
nature  smiles,  as  if  in  far-away  San  Francisco  hundreds 
of  thousands  had  not  been  made  homeless  and  probably 
lost  their  all! 

Shortly  after  breakfast  Mr.  Takahashi  makes  his 
appearance  to  say  good-by,  as  we  leave  Tokio  in  the 
evening  for  Kyoto  and  other  places,  to  be  away  three 
weeks.  Later  Mother,  by  prearrangement,  calls  upon 
Mrs.  Takahashi,  to  discuss  with  her  and  an  English- 
speaking  lady  friend  some  details  about  young  Miss 
Takahashi,  whom  we  are  to  take  with  us  to  our  own 
American  home,  to  give  her  an  American  education. 
Wakiko  Takahashi  is  just  fifteen  years  old,  a  pretty 
little  girl,  who  knows  no  English,  but  is  anxious  to 
have  a  foreign  education,  and  upon  her  urgent  desire 
her  parents  have,  somewhat  reluctantly,  consented  to 
let  us  take  her  to  New  York  for  two  years.     I  call 


for  Mother  at  Takahashi's  to  take  her  to  Count 
Matsukada's  villa  for  luncheon,  the  rest  of  the  party 
having  gone  there  direct  from  the  hotel.  We  reach 
the  Matsukada  villa  at  12.30  o'clock,  are  received 
by  the  Count  and  Countess,  patriarchal-looking  peo- 
ple, and  find  a  company  consisting  of  Admiral  and 
Mrs.  Togo,  ex-Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  and  Mrs. 
Kato,  Baron  and  Baroness  Iwasaki,  and  two  sons 
of  Count  Matsukada,  with  their  wives,  one  of  whom 
speaks  German  fluently,  having  been  in  Germany 
ten  years  for  his  education.  We  learn  the  Countess 
has  ten  sons  and  four  daughters,  the  former  all  hav- 
ing enjoyed  a  foreign  education,  and  most  of  them 
being  now  either  in  industrial  pursuits  or  in  the 
service  of  the  state.  Mother  is  placed  between  the 
Count  and  Mr.  Kato,  I  between  the  Countess  and 
Mrs.  Kato,  and  we  enjoy  a  splendid  luncheon  in  occi- 
dental style  amidst  genial  surroundings.  After  lunch- 
eon I  have  a  lengthy  conversation  with  Count  Mat- 
sukada upon  the  financial  and  economic  conditions 
prevailing  in  Japan,  the  Count  being  considered  the 
leading  economist  of  the  country,  and  I  learn  much 
from  him  that  is  instructive  and  interesting.  Admiral 
Togo  at  first  joins  our  group  and  listens,  but  apparently 


the  subject  is  too  dry  for  him,  and  soon  he  leaves  us 
to  ourselves.  When  later  we  rejoin  him  and  the  others, 
I  remark  to  the  Admiral  that  I  have  apparently  suc- 
ceeded in  doing  what  the  Russians  had  never  been 
able  to  do — to  drive  him  away.  He  is  much  amused 
and  laughs  heartily.  The  afternoon  hours  pass  quick- 
ly, and  we  reluctantly  part  from  our  hospitable  host 
and  hostess  and  their  guests.  We  drive  to  the  Im- 
perial Palace  to  inscribe  our  names,  as  is  customary 
after  the  cherry-blossom  party,  and  then  return  to 
the  hotel  to  prepare  for  our  departure  for  Kyoto  after 
dinner.  Leaving  for  the  station  after  ten  o'clock,  we 
find  our  special  train  awaiting  us,  consisting  of  two 
comfortable  sleeping  cars  and  a  baggage  car.  Soon 
we  are  en  route  and  all  enjoy  a  good  night's  rest  on 
the  cars. 

Sunday,  April  2 2d. — The  day  is  somewhat  gray 
and  it  is  raining  slightly.  A  dining  car  has  been  at- 
tached to  the  train  in  the  early  morning,  and  gradually 
the  party  assembles  in  it  to  get  breakfast.  The  country 
we  are  traversing  is  picturesque,  the  green  wheat  fields 
and  the  many  dark-green  tea  bushes  being  set  oflf  by 
many  linseed  fields  in  bright  yellow.  The  mountains 
in  the  background,  here  and  there  a  river,  a  glimpse 


at  Lake  Biwa,  and  soon  we  reach  Kyoto,  the  old  city 
of  the  Mikados.  We  are  driven  to  the  Myako  Hotel, 
beautifully  situated  upon  an  eminence,  commanding  a 
picturesque  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  We  get 
comfortable  rooms  in  a  new  annex  of  the  hotel,  built 
in  imitation  of  the  Japanese  style  of  houses,  but  with 
occidental  comfort.  Soon  we  are  settled,  and  the  pros- 
pect that  we  are  to  have  several  weeks  of  old  Japan 
undisturbed  by  social  engagements — of  which  we  had 
so  many  during  the  past  weeks — gladdens  us  all. 
However,  it  soons  begins  to  rain,  which  prevents  us 
from  doing  anything  during  the  afternoon  except 
shopping,  to  which  the  ladies  resolutely  set  themselves, 
the  men  accompanying  them.  We  visit  the  Nishimura 
silk  establishment,  the  most  important  in  Japan,  and 
Mother  makes  some  selections.  Meantime  I  go  to 
the  Yamanaka  salesrooms — these  are  the  people  who 
have  a  branch  in  New  York — which  are  well  worth  a 
visit,  being  with  their  contents  a  museum  of  Japanese 
art  of  every  kind.  Shortly  we  all  meet  again  at  the 
hotel,  which  is  overcrowded  with  American,  English, 
and  German  travelers.  Nothing  can  be  done  in  the 
evening,  and  it  is  passed  in  conversation,  reading,  and 
letter  writing. 


Monday,  April  2jd. — Kyoto  does  not  treat  us  well; 
another  wet  day  and  consequent  indoor  life.  Mother 
wishes  to  remain  home  in  the  forenoon,  but  I  go  to 
look  at  some  of  the  silk  purchases  she  made  yesterday, 
to  bargain  for  them,  which  always  falls  to  my  lot,  as 
Mother  is  wanting  in  courage  to  secure  the  discount, 
from  twenty  to  fifty  per  cent,  which  one  can  gener- 
ally get.  I  also  go  again  to  Yamanaka's,  and  am 
tempted  to  make  some  investments.  After  luncheon 
the  entire  party,  except  myself,  as  I  need  to  do  some 
letter  writing,  go  to  visit  the  castle.  Mother,  return- 
ing after  two  hours,  explains  that  the  castle  is  a  vast 
wooden  structure,  built  some  300  years  ago  for  the 
use  of  the  Shoguns,  who  did  homage  in  this  old  capital 
to  the  Emperor.  The  decorations,  especially  the  ceil- 
ings, are  very  fine,  but  one  misses  the  furniture,  of 
which  all  Japanese  dwellings  are  bare.  In  the  late 
afternoon  we  all  go  to  the  cherry-blossom  dance,  a 
kind  of  ballet  given  in  one  of  the  theaters  during  the 
month  of  April,  the  cherry-blossom  season.  We  enter 
and  are  first  shown  into  an  anteroom,  where  ceremonial 
tea  is  prepared  and  served.  This  tea  ceremony  is  quite 
odd,  as  I  have  already  noted.  The  female  specialist 
who  makes  the  tea,  each  cup  being  separately  pre- 


pared,  handles  the  whole  affair  with  tremendous  seri- 
ousness and  ceremony,  but  the  brew  is  so  strong  and 
bitter  that  to  the  foreign  taste  it  is  rather  unpalatable. 
This  over,  we  enter  the  theater  proper,  where  a  con- 
siderable multitude  is  already  assembled.  Instead  of 
benches,  the  auditorium  is  partitioned  off  lengthwise 
by  boards,  along  which  the  people  sit  on  their  haunches 
in  the  usual  Japanese  manner;  there  are,  however,  a 
few  benches  placed  upon  a  balcony  for  foreign  visitors, 
and  here  we  take  our  seats.  The  dance  soon  begins, 
or  rather  a  pantomime,  for  actual  dancing  appears  to 
be  unknown  in  Japan;  it  is  rather  a  slow,  graceful 
movement,  to  the  accompaniment  of  somewhat  weird 
music.  However,  this  so-called  cherry-blossom  dance 
is  one  of,  if  not  the  best  thing  in  the  dancing  line  we 
have  yet  seen;  it  is  very  tastefully  staged,  and  about 
fifty  girls,  who  dance,  make  an  attractive  appearance. 
The  performance  lasts  about  an  hour,  and  this  over  we 
return  to  the  hotel,  somewhat  late  for  dinner.  I  might 
here  add  that  both  men  and  women  of  this  section  are 
finer  in  appearance  than  their  compatriots  of  Tokio 
and  Yokohama  or  farther  north.  The  men  here  are 
bigger;  the  women  have  fine,  regular  features  and 
are  generally  pretty,  which  is  rather  the  exception  in 


the  northern  section.  Dinner  over,  Budge,  Neustadt, 
Ernst,  and  I  indulge  in  a  game  of  bridge,  the  ladies 
conversing  until  bedtime. 

Tuesday,  April  24th. — The  sun  has  reappeared, 
which  pleases  us  the  more  as  we  have  to  go  to  Osaka 
to-day — one  and  a  half  hours'  distance  by  rail — to 
attend  a  luncheon  to  be  given  in  our  honor  by  the 
manager  of  the  branch  of  the  Bank  of  Japan,  at  which 
we  are  to  meet  the  business  men  of  Osaka  and  Kobe. 
Osaka  is  the  most  important  manufacturing  center  in 
Japan;  it  has  1,500,000  inhabitants,  and  is  called 
the  Manchester  of  the  East.  Kobe,  about  forty-five 
minutes  distant  by  rail  from  Osaka,  is  the  second  larg- 
est port  of  the  country.  The  ladies  have  decided  not 
to  accompany  us,  but  rather  to  stay  in  Kyoto,  see  more 
sights,  and  do  some  more  shopping.  Consequently,  we 
men  are  ofT  shortly  after  ten  o'clock,  and  reach  Osaka 
at  noon,  where  we  are  taken  to  the  Osaka  Hotel,  a  fine 
structure,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  river.  The 
town  makes  a  very  solid  impression;  it  has  many  fine 
public  buildings  and  looks  very  prosperous.  A  recep- 
tion is  given  us  at  the  hotel,  and  we  are  introduced  to 
some  forty  men,  the  Mayor,  the  principal  bankers  and 
business  men,  most  of  whom  speak  English  and  make 


an  intelligent  and  favorable  impression.  Luncheon  is 
soon  served  in  a  large  hall,  but  it  is  more  of  a  banquet 
than  a  luncheon.  Mr.  Inouye,  manager  of  the  Bank  of 
Japan,  proposes  our  health,  to  which  I  reply,  and  Mr. 
Oaki,  manager  of  the  Specie  Bank,  drinks  to  the  ab- 
sent ladies,  friend  Budge  responding  on  their  behalf. 
We  get  away  again  at  about  3.30  o'clock,  and  are  back 
in  Kyoto  soon  after  five  o'clock.  The  ladies  tell  us  they 
have  been  to  some  very  unique  temples,  and  have  in- 
spected some  of  the  large  silk  and  porcelain  factories 
during  our  absence.  The  evening  again  passes  in  the 
usual  quiet  manner. 

Wednesday,  April  2^tli. — What  a  glorious  blue 
sky;  it  would  indeed  be  a  pity  not  to  spend  the  day 
outside  of  the  city  gates.  We  decide  upon  an  excur- 
sion to  the  rapids  of  the  Hozugawa,  start  at  ten  o'clock 
by  rail  for  Kameoka,  an  hour's  distance.  The  rail- 
road is  literally  hewn  into  the  rock,  the  valley  being 
exceedingly  narrow,  with  the  river  below.  Eight  tun- 
nels have  to  be  passed  upon  this  short  distance  of  thir- 
teen miles,  and  emerging  from  tunnel  after  tunnel,  new 
picturesque  views  present  themselves.  At  Kameoka 
station  jinrikishas  take  us  to  the  river,  a  short  distance, 
and  here  we  get  into  two  comfortable  flatboats  for  the 


descent  of  the  river,  through  the  many  rapids.  This 
is  by  no  means  a  very  exciting  afifair,  but  the  hour-and- 
a-half  boat  ride,  between  and  over  the  rocks  in  the  river, 
the  mountains  on  both  sides  coming  almost  straight 
down  to  the  river's  edge,  is  a  most  interesting  and  some- 
what romantic  experience.  Upon  finishing  the  boat 
ride,  we  land  at  a  teahouse,  where  a  tasty  luncheon, 
brought  by  the  guides  from  the  hotel,  is  taken,  the 
entire  party  being  in  fine  spirits.  After  luncheon 
Mother,  Mr.  Budge,  and  I  set  out  for  a  walk,  and 
finding  ourselves  upon  the  sunny  side  of  the  river,  we 
seek  a  means  to  get  transferred  to  the  other  bank,  which 
we  can,  however,  not  find  available.  The  guide  dis- 
covering a  private  pleasure  boat  occupied  by  a  Japa- 
nese gentleman  with  his  wife  and  daughter,  mentions 
to  them  our  desire,  whereupon  the  man,  upon  learning 
from  the  guide  who  we  are,  immediately  offers  to 
place  himself  at  our  disposal,  and  inviting  us  to  his 
boat,  takes  us  a  little  distance  up  the  river  and  lands 
us  upon  the  shady  side,  from  where  we  enjoy  a  fine 
walk  back  to  the  village,  crossing  a  bridge  located  at 
that  point  to  rejoin  our  party.  We  repair  to  the  rail- 
way station,  for  a  ten  minutes'  ride  to  a  point  to  which 
we  had  ordered  our  jinrikishas,  in  which  we  return 


through  a  beautiful  country  in  radiant  spring  dress,  to 
Kyoto,  about  one  and  one  half  hours'  distance.  On 
the  way  we  pass  through  an  old,  very  interesting-look- 
ing Buddhist  monastery  and  then  stop  at  the  pavilion 
built  by  one  of  the  Shoguns,  who  was  the  originator 
of  the  tea  ceremony,  several  hundred  years  ago.  The 
pavilion  is  in  reality  a  complex  of  buildings  contain- 
ing some  interesting  objects  and  is  situated  in  a  fine 
park,  with  some  charming  landscape  gardening.  After 
continuing  our  ride,  we  find  ourselves  before  long  at 
the  hotel  again,  in  good  time  for  dinner,  after  which 
the  evening  hours  are  passed  in  the  usual  way. 

Thursday,  April  26th. — It  seems  that  in  Japan  a 
rainy  day  invariably  follows  two  or  three  fine  days. 
The  morning  is  gray  with  a  sprinkling  of  rain  and 
we  have  nothing  particular  to  plan.  Mother  and  I 
visit  some  shops  and  later  the  Art  Museum,  not  a  very 
great  affair,  but  we  pass  through  some  charming  nooks 
of  old  Kyoto  and  return  to  the  hotel  for  luncheon.  In 
the  afternoon,  as  the  others  of  the  party  prefer  to  re- 
main at  home.  Mother,  Ernst,  and  I  decide  to  visit 
the  palace,  for  which  we  have  brought  permits  from 
Tokio,  the  Japanese  taking  these  things  very  seriously, 
and  it  takes  a  lot  of  red  tape  before  one  can  get  into 


any  governmental  building.  The  palace  is  situated 
within  a  fine  park,  but  the  buildings  themselves  are 
only  partly  interesting.  The  old  palace,  which  was 
the  residence  of  the  Mikados  for  several  hundred 
years  (until  in  1868  the  capital  was  transferred  to 
Tokio),  burned  down  some  twenty  years  ago;  the  pres- 
ent palace  is  said  to  be  a  reproduction  of  the  old  one. 
It  is  in  pure  Japanese  style  and  compares  in  no  way 
with  the  beautiful  palace  in  Tokio,  the  more  modern 
residence  of  the  Emperor.  The  rain  now  coming 
down  heavily,  we  are  compelled  to  return  home  and  to 
remain  indoors  the  rest  of  the  afternoon  and  evening. 
Friday,  April  ZJth. — Kyoto  is  not  treating  us  en- 
tirely right,  for  it  is  raining  again  and  we  must  once 
more  remain  at  the  hotel.  After  luncheon,  however, 
Mother  and  I  conclude  to  venture  out,  and  the  others, 
taking  courage  from  us,  follow  suit.  We  take  jin- 
rikishas  to  the  Imperial  Museum,  and  are  there  met 
by  the  director  and  his  assistant,  who,  having  learned 
of  our  coming,  offer  to  accompany  us  through  the 
museum  and  to  explain  its  contents.  It  is  really  touch- 
ing how  attentive  everybody  is,  wherever  we  go.  The 
Museum  is  quite  a  creditable  institution,  being  well 
filled  with  old  Japanese  paintings,  prints,  curios,  and 


many  articles  showing  the  ancient  art  and  develop- 
ment of  the  civilization  of  the  Japanese  people.  We 
spend  about  an  hour  and  a  half  at  the  Museum,  and 
before  we  return  to  the  hotel  we  disperse  to  do  vari- 
ous kinds  of  shopping,  the  curio  dealers  being  always 
the  great  attraction.  What  a  lot  of  truck  we  are  all 
accumulating!  The  evening  hours  are  approaching 
before  long,  and  dinner  again  unites  us  at  the  hotel, 
with  the  usual  pastime  until  bed  hour. 

Saturday,  April  28th. — The  sun  is  trying  hard  to 
get  through,  and  this  last  day  of  our  stay  at  Kyoto 
promises  to  be  at  least  not  too  unfavorable.  Mother 
and  I  go  off  about  ten  o'clock  by  ourselves  to  see  some 
of  the  public  schools,  of  which  we  have  heard  much, 
education  being  compulsory  in  Japan,  and,  as  in  the 
United  States,  entirely  free;  the  truant  system  is  said 
to  be  quite  rigid.  We  visit  first  a  primary  school, 
where  we  are  shown  around  by  one  of  the  head  masters. 
The  children  range  in  age  from  five  to  about  twelve 
years,  and  the  system  does  not  appear  to  be  very  dif- 
ferent from  that  in  our  own  schools,  boys  and  girls 
being  separated.  In  the  lowest  grade  there  is  just  a 
recess,  the  children  playing  around.  They  are  rather 
shy  upon  our  approach,  but  after  I   have  succeeded 


in  making  friends  with  one  little  boy  they  all  come 
around  and  pat  my  hand  and  try  to  make  friends  in 
the  most  comical  manner.  Leaving  the  primary  school 
we  repair  to  a  girls'  high  school  not  far  distant,  where 
the  president  receives  us  and  takes  us  around.  The 
school  is  a  large  one,  having  some  thirty-five  class- 
rooms, the  girls  ranging  in  age  from  about  fourteen 
to  eighteen  years,  a  most  intelligent-looking  class  of 
young  women.  We  are  especially  interested  in  the 
cooking  department,  where  both  Japanese  and  foreign 
styles  of  cooking  are  taught;  in  the  music  class,  where 
singing  is  taught  to  the  accompaniment  of  the  piano 
and  where  the  girls  sing  the  national  anthem  for  us; 
in  the  gymnastics  department,  where  calisthenics  are 
going  on  in  a  most  approved  manner.  We  also  visit 
the  sewing  class  and  many  other  of  the  various  de- 
partments and  are  struck  by  the  earnest  and  thorough 
manner  in  which  everything  is  being  conducted.  The 
modesty,  tact,  and  politeness  of  the  girls  are  remark- 
able, but  only  bear  out  the  impressions  we  have  already 
received  everywhere  of  a  genial,  modest,  and  well- 
mannered  people;  this  is  true  of  even  the  common 
folk.  Leaving  the  school  we  visit  the  largest  Buddha 
temple  in    Kyoto,  where  we   have   an  opportunity  to 


be  present  at  service,  and  then  we  return  to  the 
hotel  for  luncheon.  In  the  afternoon  I  go  to  take 
a  walk  in  the  park,  where  another  gorgeous  temple 
invites  inspection,  while  Mother  and  Ernst  go  to  a 
fencing  school,  which  they  report  to  have  found  most 
interesting.  The  time  having  arrived  for  our  de- 
parture for  Kobe,  where  we  are  to  take  the  steamer 
for  the  Inland  Sea,  we  repair  to  the  railway  sta- 
tion, where  again  we  find  a  special  train  awaiting  us, 
which  takes  us  promptly  to  our  destination,  a  ride 
of  some  two  hours.  At  the  Kobe  station  we  are  re- 
ceived by  the  Vice-Governor  and  the  chief  of  police, 
who  accompany  us  to  the  landing  stage,  and  soon  we 
are  on  board  of  the  good  boat  Ohio  III,  a  steamer 
of  about  one  thousand  tons  capacity,  sailing  under  the 
American  flag,  and  which  has  been  chartered  by  the 
Bank  of  Japan  for  our  use  in  the  Inland  Sea  and  our 
journey  to  Korea.  Captain  Jones,  the  commander,  an 
Englishman,  endeavors  to  make  us  comfortable,  which 
is  not  difficult,  as  the  boat,  with  its  cabins,  offers 
good  accommodation  for  the  entire  party,  including 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gordon,  whom  we  have  invited  to  be 
our  guests  for  the  trip  to  Korea.  Dinner  is  served 
soon  after,  which  tastes  very  good,  the  whole  arrange- 


ment  being  just  like  that  on  a  private  yacht,  Mother 
and  I  being  the  hosts.  The  steamer  starts  on  its  voyage 
about  1 1  P.M.,  and  we  soon  retire  to  our  cabins  for 
the  night. 

Sunday,  April  2Qth. — The  weather  has  only  waited 
to  get  nice  until  we  could  fully  appreciate  it  here  on 
these  glorious  waters  of  the  famous  Inland  Sea.  As  we 
come  on  deck  in  the  morning,  the  steamer  is  just  en- 
tering the  so-called  northern  passage,  which  is  too  nar- 
row and  too  full  of  islands  for  the  larger  ocean  boats, 
which  have  to  seek  the  wider  southern  passage  on  their 
way  to  China.  The  picturesqueness  of  this  passage  can 
hardly  be  described.  The  main  coast  is  mountainous 
throughout,  almost  every  mountain  being  covered  with 
green  fields,  with  towns  and  villages  nestling  in  every 
nook  and  corner.  Almost  every  island  we  pass,  and 
these  are  without  number,  has  an  elevation,  the  effect 
being  heightened  by  the  pure  blue  sky  and  the  glori- 
ous sunshine.  Perhaps  Norway  furnishes  a  somewhat 
similar  picture  on  some  parts  of  its  coast,  but  hardly 
as  gladdening  as  this  at  once  grand  and  peaceful 
panorama.  After  feasting  upon  this  wonderful  scenery 
for  some  eight  hours,  we  cast  anchor  at  four  o'clock 
in   the   afternoon   in   the  bay  of   Miyajima,   and   are 


promptly  taken  ashore  upon  Japanese  junks.  Miyajima 
is  a  sacred  island,  it  being  dedicated  to  the  Shinto 
temple,  which  latter  is  built  on  piles  right  over  the 
ocean  front,  so  that  at  high  tide  the  temple  appears 
from  afar  as  if  swimming  upon  the  waters.  As  we 
approach  the  temple  gate,  we  are  received  there  by 
Baron  Asano,  chief  keeper  of  the  temple,  whose  family 
has  for  seven  hundred  years  been  the  main  support  of 
this  temple.  With  his  assistant  he  takes  charge  of  our 
party,  and  after  having  first  explained  to  us  the  temple 
and  its  annexes,  the  two  fine-looking  men  take  us 
around  the  shores  of  the  island  into  a  most  wonderful 
grove,  which  forms  a  natural  terrace,  where  we  are 
served  with  coffee.  Then  Mother  is  asked  to  plant 
a  young  tree,  which  has  been  brought  by  order  of 
Baron  Asano,  and  after  she  has  done  this  most  grace- 
fully, a  tablet  is  promptly  erected  near  it,  inscribed 
"  Planted  by  Mrs.  SchifT,"  and  a  bamboo  inclosure  is 
to  be  built  around  it.  Should  our  children  or  grand- 
children happen  to  come  to  this  distant  and  secluded 
corner  of  the  world,  perhaps  they  may  still  find  here 
this  memento  of  Mother's  visit.  We  all  agree  that  we 
have  never  seen  a  more  charming  spot.  The  whole 
gives  the  impression  of  an  enchanted  island.    The  little 


village,  with  the  vista  of  a  bit  of  Japanese  landscape 
gardening  in  the  rear  of  every  little  house,  the  huge 
bright  red  temple,  the  high  green  mountains  as  a  re- 
lief to  the  whole,  furnish  a  picture  hardly  to  be  for- 
gotten.    The  regular  steamers  do  not  touch  here,  and 
the  only  boat  in  the  harbor  is  the  Italian  man-of-war, 
on  board  of  which  Prince  Ferdinand  of  Udine  is  visit- 
ing this  coast;  he  had  been  at  the  temple  just  before  us, 
and  his  ship  is  about  preparing  to  leave.    The  evening 
darkness  coming  on,  we  reluctantly  have  to  say  good-by 
to  our  amiable  priestly  hosts  and  their  beautiful  sacred 
island,  on  which  no  human  being  is  permitted  to  be 
born  or  to  die,   nor  is  any  farming  allowed  on  the 
island.    As  we  leave,  we  are  informed  that  the  stone 
lanterns,   309   in   number,   which   line   the  shore   and 
which  are  only  lit  on  festivals  and  exceptional  occa- 
sions, will  be  lighted  in  our  honor  at  dark,  our  steamer 
expecting  to  remain  in  the  bay  until  the  morning.    We 
return   aboard   in   the   steam   launch  of   the   chief   of 
police,  who  places  his  boat  at  our  disposal.     Dinner 
awaits  us  on  the  steamer,  and  as  we  come  upon  deck 
after  dinner,   the  shore   is   aglow  with   the  lights  of 
many  lanterns.    Thus  the  day  ends  amid  most  enchant- 
ing impressions. 


Monday,  April  JOth. — We  begin  the  day  by  send- 
ing Joseph  ashore  with  cablegrams,  with  which  we 
and  Neustadt  transmit  out  congratulations  to  Adele 
and  Morti,  who  to-day  celebrate  their  wooden  wedding 
anniversary,  and  our  thoughts  wander  home  to  chil- 
dren and  grandchildren.  At  an  early  hour  the  Mayor 
of  Miyajima,  the  Chief  of  Police,  Baron  Asano,  the 
guardian  of  the  temple,  and  his  assistant  Shinto  priest 
come  aboard  to  pay  a  return  visit  before  we  sail  and 
present  us  with  photographs  and  illuminated  postal 
cards  of  their  little  town,  the  temple,  and  its  surround- 
ings. The  usual  mutual  compliments  are  paid,  neither 
of  us  understanding  the  other's  language,  until  Mr. 
Kitashima  comes  to  our  aid  and  acts  as  interpreter. 
Then  these  men  depart  and  I  can  get  to  my  delayed 
breakfast.  The  morning  is  somewhat  hazy,  but  soon 
the  sun  breaks  through,  and  getting  a  last  view  of  en- 
chanting Miyajima,  we  sail  away  for  Kure,  where  we 
arrive  and  anchor  about  midday.  Here  is  located 
the  most  important  navy  yard  and  arsenal  of  Japan, 
which  played  a  most  important  part  in  the  recent  war. 
Besides  a  number  of  torpedo  destroyers  and  torpedo 
boats,  which  cover  the  waters,  a  number  of  captured 
Russian  transports,  among  these  the  battle  ship  Oriel, 


so  often  mentioned  in  naval  engagements  in  the  Sea 
of  Japan  and  captured  there,  have  been  brought  here 
for  repairs,  and  make  quite  an  interesting  sight.  Be- 
fore long  a  steam  launch  brings  an  officer  from  the 
shore,  who  is  introduced  as  the  second  commander  of 
the  naval  station.  He  informs  us  that  Prince  Ferdi- 
nand of  Udine  is  expected  toward  two  o'clock,  and 
suggests  that  we  wait  until  after  luncheon  before  com- 
ing ashore  and  then  join  the  Prince's  party  for  an  in- 
spection of  the  navy  yard  and  arsenal.  This  being 
satisfactory  to  us,  we  take  luncheon,  and  at  the  ap- 
pointed time  the  Vice-Commander  appears  again  and 
takes  us  ashore  in  his  launch.  Prince  Ferdinand  and 
his  suite,  having  landed  ahead  of  us,  have  started  for 
the  inspection  of  the  navy  yard,  and  we  follow,  but  leave 
the  ladies  waiting  for  us  in  the  garden  of  the  Adminis- 
tration Building  so  that  they  may  not  tire  themselves, 
the  entire  inspection  being  expected  to  take  several 
hours.  The  Prince's  party  having  hurried  on,  we 
follow  leisurely  with  the  Vice-Commander  and  another 
officer,  who  show  and  explain  the  different  features  of 
this  very  large  establishment.  Among  the  many  other 
reminiscences  of  the  war,  consisting  of  captured  guns, 
fragments  of  the  Russian  ships,  badly  damaged  and 


removed  in  the  course  of  the  repairs  to  the  ships,  we 
are  shown  a  large  Russian  hospital  ship,  captured  for 
violating  the  Red  Cross  flag.  The  ship  is  in  the  im- 
mense dry  dock,  and  it  is  explained  to  us  that  she  was 
placed  there  last  week  to  be  put  into  shape  for  being 
sent  to  San  Francisco;  meantime  President  Roosevelt's 
declination  of  foreign  assistance  has  made  further 
preparations  unnecessary.  We  also  learn  in  the  course 
of  our  talk  with  the  Vice-Commander  who  shows  us 
around  that  he  was  in  command  of  the  torpedo  boat 
which  made  the  first  attack  upon  the  Russian  fleet  at 
Port  Arthur  at  the  outbreak  of  the  war.  After  about 
an  hour  and  a  half's  interesting  inspection  of  the  navy 
yard,  we  return  to  the  ladies,  who  have  meantime  been 
entertained  by  Mr.  Arishima,  chief  instructor  in  me- 
chanical arts  at  the  naval  academy,  a  most  accom- 
plished man,  who,  we  are  told,  has  made  some  very 
important  inventions  in  gun  construction.  Just  then 
Prince  Ferdinand  and  his  suite  also  make  their  appear- 
ance, and  following  them,  we  all  repair  to  the  arsenal 
and  are  shown  the  different  shops,  all  of  enormous 
size,  where  the  forging  of  large  guns  and  ammuni- 
tion, as  well  as  the  making  of  armor  plates  and  other 
parts  for  two  large-sized  battle  ships,  which  have  just 


been  launched  and  which  we  see  floating  in  the  bay, 
is  actively  being  carried  on.  The  work  proves  most 
interesting,  especially  to  the  ladies,  who  have  never 
seen  anything  of  this  kind,  and  the  afternoon  hour  has 
well  advanced  before  we  are  aware  of  it.  At  the  out- 
set of  our  inspection  of  the  arsenal,  we  are  joined  by 
Chief  Director  Katakoga  of  the  station  and  a  number 
of  the  high  officers,  who  desert  the  Prince's  party  to 
accompany  us,  evidently  more  interest  being  shown  in 
us  than  in  the  Prince.  Nearly  all  of  these  officers 
speak  some  English,  most  of  them  having  been  at  the 
Armstrong  and  other  works  in  England.  We  learn 
among  other  interesting  facts  that  the  navy  yard  and 
arsenal  employ  27,000  workmen,  year  in,  year  out,  that 
it  was  started  some  eighteen  years  ago,  and  that  its 
great  growth  dates  from  the  Japanese-Chinese  war, 
after  which  Japan  evidently  immediately  began  to 
prepare  for  a  conflict  with  Russia.  Returning  to  the 
Administration  Building,  Prince  Ferdinand  and  suite 
are  just  emerging  from  it,  and  Admiral  Yoshimat,  who 
accompanies  the  Prince,  asks  him  whether  he  wishes 
to  be  introduced  to  our  party,  which  he  answers  in  the 
affirmative,  whereupon  I  am  first  presented,  and  tell- 
ing the  Prince  that  we  have  already  made  his  acquaint- 


ance  at  the  Marchioness  Nabishima's  ball  at  Tokio,  he 
expresses  gratification  at  meeting  us  again.  I  then 
introduce  Mother  and  the  other  ladies,  and  after  the 
exchange  of  civilities,  the  Prince  and  his  suite  pass 
on,  whereupon  we  are  taken  to  the  spacious  reception 
rooms,  where  we  find  high  tea  prepared  for  us.  The 
entire  party  has  become  rather  hungry  and  does  full 
justice  to  the  tea,  and  especially  to  the  excellent  cakes, 
which  have  been  provided  in  great  abundance.  Rear 
Admiral  Yoshimat,  having  meantime  become  free  by 
the  departure  of  the  Prince,  comes  in  to  chat  with  our 
party,  expressing  his  gratification  at  meeting  me,  of 
whose  services  to  his  country  he  had  already  heard. 
Mother  is  then  presented  with  a  small  shell  from  a 
man-of-war  captured  in  the  naval  battle  in  the  Sea 
of  Japan,  and  which  had  been  nickel-plated  as  a 
memento.  We  are  then  asked  to  inscribe  our  names 
in  the  distinguished  visitors'  book,  a  tasteful  emblem 
of  the  crossed  American  and  Japanese  flags  having 
thoughtfully  been  placed  over  the  page  upon  which 
we  inscribe  our  names.  Soon  after  we  have  to  leave 
to  return  to  our  ship;  the  officers  accompany  us  to  the 
landing  stage,  we  get  into  the  launch,  into  which  are 
first  placed  the  flowers  which  had  adorned  the  recep- 


tion  room,  and  before  long  we  again  find  ourselves  on 
board  of  our  good  boat,  which  then  promptly  sails 
away,  as  we  shall  want  to  reach  Moji  in  good  time  in 
the  morning.  At  dinner,  all  being  in  fine  spirits  be- 
cause of  the  interesting  experiences  we  have  had,  we 
have  some  champagne  opened,  and  drink,  to  the  health 
of  Morti  and  Adele,  the  wooden-wedding  celebrants. 
The  evening  then  passes  quickly  with  bridge,  reading, 
and  writing. 

Tuesday,  May  1st. — After  two  days  of  fine  weather, 
it  has  been  our  experience  in  Japan,  one  can  almost 
always  be  certain  that  a  rainy  day  will  follow.  After 
sailing  all  night,  we  find  ourselves  in  the  harbor  of 
Moji  this  morning,  the  rain  coming  down  in  tor- 
rents. I  have  hardly  come  on  deck,  when  the  man- 
ager and  submanager  of  the  branch  of  the  Bank  of 
Japan  appear  to  pay  their  respects  and  to  tell  us  that 
they  have  made  arrangements  to  take  us  by  boat  to 
the  large  governmental  ironworks,  an  hour  and  a  half 
distant.  The  weather  being,  however,  so  unfavorable, 
we  ask  to  be  excused  from  going,  at  which  these  good 
men  seem  to  feel  relieved  and  bid  us  good-by.  Shortly 
thereafter  the  Mayor  of  the  town,  with  the  Chief  of 
Police,    come    to    pay    their    respects,    and    the    usual 


amiabilities  are  exchanged,  the  Mayor,  who  is  an 
old  man,  telling  me  that  he  had  been  in  the  navy 
when  Commodore  Perry  made  the  treaty  by  which 
Japan  was  opened  to  American  commerce,  and  that 
he  had  since  been  to  the  United  States,  of  which 
he  was  a  great  admirer.  He  departs  with  his  escort, 
and  shortly  afterwards  sends  flowers  on  board  for 
Mother,  also  illustrated  memorial  postal  cards  and 
stamps,  just  issued  in  commemoration  of  the  fes- 
tivities in  honor  of  the  victorious  ending  of  the  war, 
these  festivities  taking  place  in  Tokio  yesterday  and 
to-day.  It  is  indeed  most  touching  how,  even  in  the 
small  and  remote  places  of  Japan,  people  wish  to 
show  us  some  kind  of  attention,  in  appreciation,  as 
they  always  say,  of  my  services  to  them  in  the  hour  of 
their  country's  need.  We  have  to  remain  in  Moji 
harbor  for  several  hours  to  take  on  coal,  an  interest- 
ing proceeding,  the  coal  being  transferred  from  the 
barge  to  the  steamer  by  means  of  baskets,  handled  with 
astonishing  rapidity  by  a  chain  of  men  and  women. 
Moji  is  the  western  end  of  the  Inland  Sea  and  adjoins 
Shimonoseki,  where  eleven  years  ago  the  peace  treaty 
was  concluded  between  China  and  Japan,  Li  Hung 
Chang  and  Marquis  Ito  being  the  respective  commis- 


sioners.  We  leave  Moji  shortly  after  noon  and  soon 
are  in  the  Sea  of  Japan,  steaming  toward  the  island  of 
Tsushima,  where  hardly  a  year  ago  Admiral  Togo 
dealt  so  crushing  a  blow  to  the  Russian  fleet.  The 
sea  is  high,  regular  English  Channel  weather,  and 
most  of  our  party  succumb,  Mother  alone  saving  the 
honor  of  the  ladies.  Budge  and  I  maintain  ourselves 
likewise,  but  as  the  rain  continues  and  the  sea  remains 
rough,  everyone  retires  to  bed  at  a  comparatively  early 
hour,  hoping  better  things  from  the  morrow. 

Wednesday,  May  2d. — The  sea  has  become  some- 
what more  quiet  during  the  night,  and  on  rising,  we 
sight  the  Korean  west  coast,  the  Yellow  Sea  separat- 
ing Korea  from  China.  The  rain  has  ceased  and 
gradually  the  sky  is  clearing.  We  wind  our  way  be- 
tween many  islands,  all  rising  straight  out  of  the 
ocean;  they  show  little  or  no  vegetation,  and,  with  the 
rugged  coast,  make  an  impressive  picture.  The  day 
passes  quietly  with  writing,  reading,  and  bridge,  the 
ladies  retiring  early,  while  the  men  remain  on  deck 
somewhat  longer,  the  night  being  beautiful,  with  the 
bright  stars  and  the  rising  moon  over  the  distant  coast, 
and  the  open  but  quiet  waters  into  which  we  have 
drifted  on  our  way  to  Chemulpo,  where  we  expect  to 


arrive  in  the  morning  and  where  we  intend  to  land 
to  take  the  railroad  to  Seoul,  twenty-six  miles  distant. 
Thursday,  May  jd. — "  The  Land  of  the  Morning 
Calm  "  is  the  name  sometimes  given  to  Korea.  As  we 
come  on  deck  this  morning  the  ocean  is  as  smooth  as 
oil,  a  hazy  atmosphere  covering  the  coast  and  water  as 
well  as  the  islands  between  which  the  steamer  plies  its 
way.  The  forenoon  passes  rapidly  and  soon  we  are 
nearing  the  harbor  of  Chemulpo,  so  well  known  from 
its  importance  in  the  early  history  of  the  Russo-Japa- 
nese war.  It  was  here  where  the  first  actual  naval 
combat  took  place  between  the  Varijag  and  Coj-- 
leitz  on  the  Russian  side  and  the  Japanese  Fe/les, 
under  Admiral  Uriu,  the  Russian  ships  being  blown 
up  by  their  commanders  to  escape  capture.  But  no 
longer  is  there  any  activity  in  Chemulpo  harbor,  except 
the  considerable  number  of  Korean  junks,  many  of 
which  surround  our  steamer  as  soon  as  it  anchors,  to 
secure  the  transfer  of  passengers  and  baggage.  We  are 
called  for  in  a  steam  launch  on  which  are  the  collector 
of  the  port,  the  Japanese  consul,  and  the  manager  of 
the  First  Bank  (of  which  our  friend.  Baron  Shiba- 
suma,  of  Tokio,  is  the  president),  the  latter  having 
come  on  from  Seoul  to  greet  us.    Upon  landing  at  the 


dock  we  are  greeted  by  the  Mayor  of  the  town,  a 
Japanese;  as  we  have  an  hour  before  the  train  starts, 
we  make  an  inspection  tour  through  the  town,  stopping 
a  short  while  at  the  house  of  the  Japanese  consul. 
Little  can  be  said  about  the  town,  which  does  not  give 
an  impression  of  prosperity.  It  has  a  considerable 
Chinese  and  a  still  larger  Japanese  population,  aside 
from  the  Korean  populace.  The  latter  are  a  new  ele- 
ment to  us,  and  with  their  long  white  coats  and  strange 
hats,  somewhat  in  the  form  of  a  cake  dish,  placed  upon 
the  extreme  top  of  the  head,  make  a  strange  impres- 
sion. The  women  wear  circular  coats,  sometimes  in 
white,  but  often  in  green,  which  they  draw  over  head 
and  face,  so  that  you  can  seldom  recognize  them.  The 
females  we  saw  were  all  very  homely,  which  may  ac- 
count for  the  hiding  of  their  faces.  After  a  while  we 
repair  to  the  railway  station,  where  we  again  find  a 
special  train  awaiting  us,  the  railroad  being  built  upon 
the  American  model,  with  American  cars,  which  form 
a  welcome  change  from  the  narrow  Japanese  cars.  It 
is  only  twenty-seven  miles  from  Chemulpo  to  Seoul, 
the  country  the  road  traverses  being  rather  interesting; 
soon  we  reach  Seoul,  where  we  are  received  at  the 
station  by  Mr.  Gordon  Paddock,  the  American  consul- 


general;  by  Mr.  Stevens,  the  American  adviser  of  the 
Japanese  Foreign  Office;  and  Mr.  Megata,  the  Japa- 
nese financial  adviser  of  the  Korean  Government — a 
Harvard  graduate — and  by  a  representative  of  the  resi- 
dent-general's office — Marquis  Ito — the  resident-gen- 
eral being  absent  in  Tokio.  After  the  exchange  of 
civilities,  we  are  taken  in  Sedan  chairs  to  a  German 
house,  kept  by  a  Miss  Sontag,  where  we  find  pleasant 
quarters.  After  a  while  we  make  a  call  at  the  Ameri- 
can consulate,  formerly  the  legation,  a  kind  of  bunga- 
low, very  pleasantly  situated  in  a  large  garden.  Then 
we  take  a  walk  through  the  town,  which,  with  its  pic- 
turesque population,  makes  a  most  interesting  impres- 
sion, but  is  indescribably  dirty.  Evening  coming  on, 
we  return  to  the  hotel  and  have  a  good  dinner,  retiring 
early. 

Friday,  May  4th. — Mr.  Gordon  Paddock,  the 
American  consul-general,  and  Mr.  Stevens  call  soon 
after  breakfast  to  show  us  the  town,  for  which  pur- 
pose Mr.  Paddock  has  arranged  to  have  a  special 
trolley  car  placed  at  our  disposal,  which  runs  through 
the  principal  streets  into  the  open  country.  We  ride 
the  entire  length  of  the  trolley  line — about  ten  miles— 
and  get  a  very  good  view  indeed  of  the  town  and  its 


immediate  surroundings,  the  most  oriental  we  have 
ever  seen.  The  Neustadts  tell  us  Egypt  is  hardly  more 
oriental  or  more  picturesque.  We  are  told  there  is  no 
such  thing  as  law  here;  he  who  pays  most  gets  what 
he  wants  and  justice  is  made  to  order.  The  Japanese, 
who  since  the  close  of  the  war  have  acquired  a  pro- 
tectorate over  Korea,  have  taken  hold  with  a  firm 
hand  and  are  endeavoring  to  get  order  out  of  chaos, 
a  task  which  is  being  made  as  difficult  as  possible  for 
them  by  all,  especially  by  the  foreigners,  who  hitherto 
have  mostly  been  on  the  make  in  one  way  or  the  other. 
At  one  o'clock  we  go  to  take  luncheon  with  Consul 
Paddock,  who  has  invited  a  few  Americans  to  meet 
us,  mostly  promoters,  except  a  Mr.  Townsend,  who  is 
agent  of  the  Standard  Oil  Company  and  said  to  be 
much  respected.  While  at  luncheon  at  Mr.  Paddock's 
Mr.  Ku,  one  of  the  chamberlains  of  the  Emperor, 
appears  to  call  on  me  on  the  latter's  behalf,  and  to  ex- 
press his  Majesty's  regret  that,  being  slightly  indis- 
posed, he*  will  be  unable  to  receive  me,  but  he  hopes 
that  we  will  accept  an  invitation  to  luncheon  the  fol- 
lowing day  with  his  Grand  Master  of  Ceremonies  and 
members  of  the  cabinet  at  the  East  Palace,  and  that 
after  the  luncheon  the  ladies  of  the  party  will  be  re- 


ceived  by  Lady  Om — who  since  the  death  of  the  Em- 
press, who  was  murdered  in  1895,  has  become  Princess 
Consort  and  does  the  honors  of  the  court.  Soon  after 
we  leave  Mr.  Paddock's  residence  and  are  taken  by  him 
to  the  North  Palace,  a  most  interesting  group  of  build- 
ings, including  the  large  audience  hall,  where  in  years 
gone  by  the  Korean  kings,  standing  behind  a  lacquer 
screen,  which  is  still  there,  received  the  notables  of  the 
kingdom.  The  many  pavilions  and  buildings  forming 
the  palace  have  in  their  architecture  a  strong  Chinese 
impress,  the  whole  being  most  picturesque  and  impress- 
ive, except  that  the  condition  of  the  buildings  is  very 
dilapidated.  It  was  here  that  the  Empress  was  mur- 
dered, and  because  of  this,  we  are  told,  the  Emperor 
has  an  aversion  against  this  palace  and  permits  it  to 
run  down.  Returning  to  the  hotel,  we  have  soon  to 
prepare  to  go  to  the  official  residence  of  the  resident- 
general,  where  the  acting  resident-general,  Mr.  Tsu- 
ruhara,  has  invited  us  to  dinner.  Upon  our  arrival 
there  we  find  a  company,  consisting,  besides  the  host, 
of  Commanding  General  Otani — of  Mukden  fame — 
Mr.  Nabishima,  the  chief  secretary;  Mr.  Megatta, 
the  financial  adviser;  the  English  consul-general,  and 
also  the  French  consul-general,  with  their  wives,   as 


well  as  the  German,  the  Belgian,  and  the  Chinese 
consuls.  The  Japanese  regimental  band  dispenses  ani- 
mating music  during  the  dinner,  which  is  served  in 
fine  style;  Mother  is  placed  between  the  host  and 
Mr.  Megatta,  while  my  seat  is  between  Mrs.  Cock- 
burn,  the  wife  of  the  English  consul,  an  interesting 
lady,  who  was  shut  up  during  the  Boxer  rebellion  at 
Peking  with  the  other  legations  and  tells  me  all  about 
it,  and  Mrs.  Neustadt.  After  dinner  we  are  treated 
to  a  production  by  Korean  dancing  girls,  accompanied 
by  a  native  band,  a  most  unique  and  interesting  per- 
formance. It  is  midnight  when  we  get  back  to  the 
hotel. 

Saturday,  May  ^th. — The  ladies  feeling  the  neces- 
sity of  husbanding  their  strength,  because  of  the  vari- 
ous engagements  the  day  is  to  bring,  remain  indoors 
during  the  forenoon,  while  I  pay  some  calls  on  my 
Japanese  friends.  At  one  o'clock  we  proceed  to  the 
East  Palace,  where  in  an  open  pavilion  we  are  received 
by  Mr.  Ty-Kun-Sang,  the  Emperor's  Grand  Master 
of  Ceremony;  the  Prime  Minister,  the  Finance  Min- 
ister, and  a  goodly  number  of  other  dignitaries,  all 
Koreans,  of  whom  a  number  speak  English  and  Ger- 
man, the  most  intelligent  being  Mr.  Ku,  who  had  al- 


ready  waited  upon  us  the  previous  day.  Luncheon  is 
soon  served  in  an  adjoining  pavilion  in  most  approved 
occidental  style,  the  imperial  military  orchestra  fur- 
nishing most  excellent  regimental  music  during  the 
meal.  A  Mr._  Kettler,  a  German  from  Silesia,  is  the 
instructor  and  leader  of  this  Korean  band,  and  we 
willingly  shower  praise  upon  him  when  he  is  intro- 
duced to  us.  After  luncheon  the  entire  party  starts 
upon  a  promenade  through  the  vast  park,  and  we 
become  specially  interested  in  the  large  number  of 
beautiful  herons  which  have  built  their  nests  upon 
the  trees,  the  impressions  we  receive  being  again 
somewhat  on  the  Arabian  Nights  style.  Toward  five 
o'clock  we  return  to  the  hotel,  the  ladies  having  to 
prepare  for  the  visit  at  another  palace  to  Lady  Om, 
the  Princess  Consort.  Scarcely  arrived  at  the  hotel, 
Mr.  Ku,  the  Emperor's  chamberlain,  appears  again, 
bringing  with  him  a  number  of  messengers,  who  carry 
packages,  which,  as  Mr.  Ku  informs  us,  contain  pres- 
ents sent  by  his  Majesty  with  his  repeated  regrets  that 
he  cannot  receive  us  personally.  The  packages  are 
found  to  contain  for  each  of  the  ladies  two  rolls  of  silk, 
and  besides  this  for  Mother  a  silver  teacup,  and  a  pic- 
ture and  a  leopard  skin  for  me.    We  express  our  grati- 


tude  and  then  the  ladies  depart  with  Mr.  Ku  for  Lady 
Om's  palace.  From  this  reception  the  ladies  return 
after  about  an  hour,  and  Mother  reports  of  it  the 
following:  "We  were  received  in  an  anteroom,  where 
we  found  a  young  boy  about  ten  years  old,  who  was 
presented  to  us  as  Prince  Yung,  a  son  of  Lady  Om  (and 
the  Emperor) .  The  young  fellow  well  understood  how 
to  do  the  honors  and  asked  us  to  partake  of  cakes  until 
his  mother  could  see  us,  he  himself  taking  a  good  share 
for  himself.  Soon  we  were  ushered  into  a  second 
room,  where  we  found  Lady  Om  sitting  at  a  table,  sur- 
rounded by  a  number  of  ladies-in-waiting.  She  is  a 
pure-blooded  Korean,  evidently  very  bright,  about 
forty-five  years  old,  and  is  said  to  have  very  great  in- 
fluence upon  the  Emperor,  her  ambition  being  to  secure 
the  succession  for  her  son,  the  present  Crown  Prince 
being  somewhat  of  an  imbecile.  Lady  Om  was  very 
condescending,  and  after  exchanging  civilities,  we  re- 
tired, the  young  Prince  again  accompanying  us  to  the 
anteroom,  where  champagne  and  sweets  were  served, 
which  we,  however,  declined,  this  making  the  young 
fellow  very  unhappy.    We  then  left  for  the  hotel." 

Shortly  after  the   ladies   had   come   back — during 
their  absence  I  had  gone  to  the  club  at  the  invitation 


of  Mr.  Paddock — another  chamberlain  of  the  Emperor 
appears — this  time  one  who  speaks  German — to  say 
good-by  on  behalf  of  the  Emperor,  and  again  to  express 
the  latter's  regrets  that  he  had  not  been  able  to  receive 
me,  which  he  would  have  done  despite  his  indisposi- 
tion did  not  the  Japanese  resident-general  insist  that 
he  should  have  no  intercourse  with  foreigners  except 
in  the  presence  of  the  resident-general  or  his  repre- 
sentative. It  appears  this  became  necessary  to  prevent 
the  constant  plotting  and  intriguing  the  Emperor  is 
said  to  carry  on  with  Russian  and  other  foreign  repre- 
sentatives, and  this  regulation  on  the  part  of  the  Japa- 
nese being  now  strictly  enforced,  the  Emperor  declines 
to  receive  any  foreigner  for  whom  the  Japanese  resi- 
dent-general may  request  audience. 

We  dine  at  the  hotel  early,  and  after  dinner  we 
leave  for  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Megatta's  residence  to  attend 
a  reception  and  ball  given  in  our  honor.  We  find  a 
large  company  assembled,  including  practically  all  the 
foreign  residents,  the  Korean  finance  minister — but 
no  other  Koreans — and  a  goodly  number  of  Japanese 
with  their  ladies.  Mrs.  Megatta,  the  hostess,  who  had 
only  returned  from  Japan  the  previous  evening,  we 
find  a  charming  lady,  and  we  quite  enjoy  this  social 


entertainment  in  this  strange  land.  The  music  is  again 
by  the  Korean  military  orchestra  and  is  very  good. 
There  is  considerable  dancing,  supper  being  served 
at  eleven  oxlock,  during  the  progress  of  which  we 
leave  and  soon  find  ourselves  at  the  hotel,  ready  to 
retire  for  our  early  departure  in  the  morning. 

Sunday,  May  6th. — Thirty-one  years  ago  to-day 
Mother  and  I  became  united  for  life,  and  therefore 
it  is  our  first  pleasure  to-day  to  congratulate  each 
other  for  all  the  happiness  and  blessings  this  long 
period  has  brought  us.  May  God  long  continue 
it!  Immediately  after  breakfast  we  have  to  leave  the 
hotel  for  the  railroad  station,  our  special  train  being 
booked  to  leave  at  9.30  o'clock.  Reaching  the  station, 
we  find  a  large  number  of  friends,  who  have  come  to 
bid  us  good-by,  including  Mr.  Tsuruhara,  the  acting 
governor-general;  Mr.  Megatta,  Mr.  Nabishima,  Mr. 
Stevens,  Consul  Paddock,  a  few  of  the  Koreans  whom 
we  had  met,  and  several  of  the  American  colony.  Our 
train  soon  starts  on  its  way  to  Fusan,  the  southern  port 
of  Korea,  270  miles  distant,  accompanied  by  the  gen- 
eral manager,  Mr.  Adachi.  This  road  has  only  been 
opened  somewhat  over  a  year,  and  is  entirely  owned  in 
Japan.     It  is  built  like  our  American  roads,  standard 


gauge,  with  American  equipment,  the  entire  construc- 
tion being  very  solid  and  permanent.    The  road  is  no  1 
doubt  destined  to  aid  considerably  in  the  development 
of  the  country,  the  possibilities  of  which  appear,  under 

the    intelligent    administration    the    Japanese    are    no  ' 

doubt  going  to  give  Korea,  to  be  very  considerable. 
The  country  we  traverse  is  rich  in  scenic  variation,  and 
the  ten  hours'  travel  passes  quite  quickly.  We  arrive 
at  Fusan  at  7.30  o'clock,  and  are  much  pleased  to  find 
awaiting  us  there  a  number  of  cablegrams  from  home 
with  congratulations  on  our  wedding  day.  Our  boat, 
the  Ohio  III,  is  in  the  harbor  and  we  are  taken  to 
it  in  a  steam  launch,  but  the  wind  being  very  high,  we 
have  some  difficulty  in  getting  aboard.     The  captain 

deems  it  well  to  wait  some  hours  for  the  going  down  ] 

of  the  wind,  and  we  do  not  leave  Fusan  harbor  until 

after  midnight.    Scarcely  outside,  we  find  ourselves  in  I 

the  midst  of  a  storm,  which,  instead  of  subsiding,  in-  .] 

creases  continually  in  fury.    The  117  miles  (the  length  ■ 

of  the  straits  separating  Korea  from  Japan)  are  at  all  1 

times   subject  to   weather  somewhat   like   that  which 

prevails  in  the  English  Channel,  and  we  are  unlucky  < 

enough  to  find  these  straits  at  their  worst.  i 

Monday,  May  Jth. — Everybody  appears  to  prefer 


to  remain  in  bed,  and  I  find  myself  alone  on  deck  this 
morning  at  about  ten  o'clock.  With  the  turbulence 
of  the  waters,  I  feel,  however,  anything  but  comfort- 
able. No  one  coming  to  luncheon,  and  being  person- 
ally not  in  a  frame  of  mind  and  body  for  a  meal,  the 
day  drags  drearily  on  until  toward  four  o'clock,  when 
the  sea  becomes  somewhat  quieter,  and  gradually  the 
rest  of  the  party  make  their  appearance.  We  reach 
Moji,  on  the  Japanese  side,  at  eight  o'clock,  twelve 
hours  late,  but  are  happy  that  the  ugly,  perhaps  some- 
what dangerous,  crossing  is  behind  us.  We  cast  anchor 
here  to  remain  for  the  night,  take  a  good  dinner,  and 
receive  from  land  a  considerable  mail,  which  has  been 
sent  on  from  Tokio  and  has  accumulated  here,  includ- 
ing letters  from  home,  which  make  us  very  glad,  and 
with  the  perusal  of  which  we  spend  the  rest  of  the 
evening. 

Tuesday,  May  8th. — The  steamer  leaves  Moji  dur- 
ing the  night,  and  as  we  rise  we  find  ourselves  once 
more  sailing  through  the  Inland  Sea.  But  instead  of 
the  beautiful  weather  and  perfect  scenery  we  enjoyed 
during  the  early  part  of  last  week  in  the  same  waters, 
it  now  rains  incessantly,  so  that  the  coast  and  the  islands 
can  barely  be  seen  through  the  mist.    The  deck  is  wet 


and  we  seek  the  shelter  of  the  cabin  and  smoking  room, 
where  the  day  and  evening  are  passed  with  corre- 
spondence, reading,  conversation,  and  bridge  playing 
until  we  retire,  hoping  for  better  things  from  the 
morrow. 

Wednesday,  May  Qth. — We  are  called  at  an  early 
hour,  as  the  steamer  is  to  reach  its  destination,  Osaka, 
at  half  past  seven  o'clock,  and  we  shall  then  have  to 
disembark  to  catch  our  special  train.  Breakfast  is 
hurriedly  taken,  meantime  the  steamer  has  cast  anchor 
in  Osaka  harbor,  we  make  our  adieus  to  good  and  care- 
ful Captain  Jones,  and  are  taken  by  a  steam  launch 
to  the  landing  place  under  the  guidance  of  the  sub- 
manager  of  the  Bank  of  Japan,  who  has  come  on  board 
at  this  early  hour  to  receive  us,  see  us  safely  landed, 
and  take  us  to  our  train.  The  ladies  in  a  carriage,  the 
men  in  jinrikishas,  are  swiftly  driven  along  the  ex- 
tensive fine  quay,  the  city  of  Osaka  somewhat  in  the 
distance  until  it  is  reached  after  a  lengthy  drive;  at 
about  half  past  eight  o'clock  we  get  to  the  railroad 
station,  the  entrance  to  which  is  decorated  with  the 
American  and  Japanese  flags,  while  the  reception 
room  into  which  we  are  shown  is  decked  with  flowers. 
The  Chief  of  Police,  the  Vice-Prefect,  and  a  Deputy 


from  the  Mayor  make  their  appearance  to  welcome  us 
and  to  wish  us  a  pleasant  journey.  Shortly  our  train, 
in  which  we  also  find  handsome  flowers,  moves  out, 
and  we  journey  through  the  green  fields  and  moun- 
tain scenery  to  Nara,  which  we  reach  soon  after  ten 
o'clock.  Here  we  intend  to  stop  over  for  some  hours 
in  order  to  view  the  celebrated  temple  with  its  sur- 
roundings, and  we  are  again  received  by  the  Mayor, 
the  Chief  of  Police,  and  several  dignitaries,  who  take 
charge  of  us  personally  to  show  us  the  sights.  A  short 
jinrikisha  ride  brings  us  to  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
spots  we  have  yet  seen  in  Japan.  We  find  ourselves  in 
an  avenue  of  cryptomerias  and  other  tall  trees,  where 
we  become  surrounded  by  several  hundred  deer,  which 
press  in  upon  us  for  cakes,  which  we  buy  at  a  stand 
near  by  and  which  are  eagerly  snatched  up  by  the 
handsome  tame  animals.  As  we  proceed  into  the 
park  we  find  it  full  of  wistaria  trees,  all  in  bloom, 
of  such  sizes  and  fragrancy  as  we  have  never  known 
before.  The  rich  dark  green  of  the  trees  and  the 
delicate  color  of  the  wistaria,  in  such  abundance, 
make  an  almost  intoxicating  picture.  At  the  entrance 
of  Kasuga  Temple  a  Shinto  priest  receives  us  with 
much  deference  and  takes  us  around.     He  shows  us 


first  the  dignified  Shinto  temples  and  then  orders 
two  dancing  girls  attached  to  the  temple  to  give  a 
performance,  consisting  of  a  sacred  dance,  accompa- 
nied by  the  monotonous  music  of  two  priests.  We 
are  served  with  tea  and  dainties,  and  then  proceed 
through  the  park  to  the  large  Buddha,  the  largest  in 
Japan,  placed  here  a  thousand  years  ago,  though  the 
head  was  removed  some  two  hundred  years  ago,  it  hav- 
ing become  damaged  by  fire.  Again  mounting  the 
jinrikishas  we  are  taken  to  a  charmingly  situated  inn 
where  a  good  luncheon  is  awaiting  us.  The  view 
which  we  enjoy  during  the  meal  is  most  attractive — a 
Japanese  garden,  with  the  typical  pond,  all  set  in  the 
fine  mountain  scenery  in  the  near  distance.  Luncheon 
being  finished  soon  after  one  o'clock,  the  time  has  ar- 
rived to  return  to  the  station  for  the  resumption  of 
our  journey  to  Nagoya,  which  we  reach  after  a  pleas- 
ant railroad  ride  of  three  and  one-half  hours  at  half 
past  five  o'clock.  At  Nagoya  we  are  received  by  the 
officers  of  the  Bank  of  Japan  and  by  the  president  of 
the  Bankers'  Association,  who  welcome  us  to  their 
city,  in  which  it  is  our  intention  to  rest  several  days 
before  we  return  to  Tokio.  We  drive  to  the  Nagoya 
Hotel,  an  inn  one-half  in  European  and  the  other  half 


in  Japanese  style,  and,  as  it  has  become  late,  nothing 
further  is  undertaken,  all  desiring  to  retire  early  after 
the  full  day  we  have  enjoyed. 

Thursday,  May  lOth. — Again  a  rainy  day,  but,  not- 
withstanding this,  not  long  after  breakfast  the  whole 
party  sets  out  in  jinrikishas  (carriages  cannot  be  had 
here)  for  Nagoya  Castle,  the  principal  sight  of  the 
town.  The  castle  is  a  unique  structure  with  a  number 
of  pagodas,  one  above,  the  other,  on  the  topmost  of 
which  two  large  solid  gold  dolphins  are  placed,  each 
valued  at  £35,000.  The  castle  was  built  some  two 
hundred  years  ago,  as  a  place  of  residence  and  strong- 
hold of  one  of  the  leading  daimos,  and  constitutes  a 
regular  fortress.  From  the  highest  floor  a  fine  view 
of  the  surrounding  country  is  enjoyed,  a  large  fertile 
plain,  and  mountains  in  the  distance.  Adjoining  the 
castle  is  the  palace,  with  a  number  of  finely  decorated 
rooms,  by  artists  of  the  different  leading  older  schools. 
We  return  to  the  hotel  for  luncheon,  and  in  the  after- 
noon, as  it  continues  to  rain,  we  can  do  nothing  but 
visit  some  shops,  in  which  nothing  remarkable  can  be 
found,  the  same  being  the  case  at  the  industrial 
museum,  which  we  also  visit  before  returning  to  the 
hotel  for  the  rest  of  the  afternoon  and  the  evening. 


Friday,  May  Ilth. — Nothing  further  remaining 
to  be  done  in  purely  commercial  Nagoya,  we  have  de- 
cided to  return  to-day  to  Tokio,  but  find  that  our 
special  train  cannot  be  scheduled  promptly  on  account 
of  the  overcrowded  tracks.  As  we  do  not  wish  to 
delay  our  departure  for  another  day,  we  ask  the  man- 
agement to  reserve  a  number  of  compartments  on  the 
regular  limited  train,  which  they  promise  to  arrange. 
The  forenoon  is  utilized  in  taking  one  more  look  at  the 
town — the  ladies  going  to  a  silk-spinning  establishment 
— and  after  taking  an  early  luncheon,  we  leave  for  the 
station  to  catch  the  train.  Upon  its  arrival  we  find 
that  the  management  has  arranged  to  make  us  very 
comfortable,  having  provided  for  us  an  abundance  of 
space,  and  we  soon  speed  toward  Tokio,  through  a 
fine  agricultural  country,  enjoying  a  fine  vista  of  the 
ocean  on  the  one  side  and  of  the  mountains  on  the 
other.  The  time  passes  rapidly,  and  in  the  late  after- 
noon Fujiyama  in.  all  its  majesty  comes  into  sight.  The 
snow  in  which  the  mountain  was  clad  when  we  saw 
it  some  five  weeks  ago  at  Mijanoshto  and  Hakone  has 
mostly  disappeared,  the  top  only  remaining  covered. 
The  now  green  mountain  with  its  white  hood,  around 
which  some  soft  clouds  float,  makes  a  most  impressive 


appearance;  it  looks  as  if  it  grew  right  out  of  the 
valley,  and  there  is  something  mystic  about  the  moun- 
tain with  its  cone-shaped  top  stretching  into  the  skies. 
After  having  skirted  Fuji  for  about  an  hour,  it  dis- 
appears, and  soon  the  evening  shades  begin  to  appear 
and  with  these  our  appetite  for  dinner.  We  are  noti- 
fied that  the  dining  car  will  not  be  opened  to  other 
passengers  until  our  party  have  had  their  meal,  and 
not  wishing  to  get  the  passengers  into  bad  humor,  we 
take  an  early  dinner,  which,  for  a  railroad  meal,  is  very 
satisfactorily  served.  Two  hours  remain  after  dinner 
before  we  reach  Tokio,  where  upon  arrival  we  are 
promptly  driven  to  the  hotel,  and  find  comfortable 
rooms  awaiting  us  and  soon  retire  for  the  night. 

Saturday,  May  I2th. — This  is  darling  Gerald's 
birthday,  on  which  Mother  and  I  congratulate  our- 
selves the  first  thing  in  the  morning,  and  then  the  cable 
is  intrusted  with  the  carrying  of  our  congratulations 
and  loving  messages  to  far-away  New  York.  It  is  a 
fine  day  and  we  decide  to  see  something  of  the  parks 
in  their  spring  dress.  Hearing  that  there  is  a  fine 
wistaria  show  in  one  of  the  smaller  parks,  Mother, 
Neustadt,  Ernst,  and  I  repair  there,  and  spend  a  de- 
lightful hour  among  the  trees,  admiring  the  flowers, 


the  groups  of  parents  and  children,  so  fond  of  nature, 
and  we  reluctantly  return  to  the  hotel  for  a  late  lunch- 
eon. In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Takahashi  calls  to  take 
me  to  Count  Inouye,  who  was  away  when  we  were  in 
Tokio  before,  and  to  meet  whom  specially  interests  me, 
the  Count  having  had  charge  of  the  Empire's  finan- 
cial plans  during  the  war.  Count  Inouye,  who  is  a 
man  of  about  seventy  years,  one  of  the  so-called  Elder 
Statesmen,  receives  me  most  cordially,  highly  com- 
mends what  my  firm  has  done  for  his  country,  and 
drifting  into  general  conversation,  we  exchange  views 
upon  the  economic  and  financial  situation  for  fully 
an  hour  and  a  half,  after  which  I  leave  with  the  prom- 
ise that  I  will  take  luncheon  with  him  before  we  de- 
part. The  evening  is  quietly  spent  at  the  hotel,  as 
we  have  announced  that  we  shall  accept  no  further 
invitations. 

Sunday,  May  IJth. — Two  days  having  been  fine, 
it  is  in  the  regular  order  that  a  rainy  day  shall  follow, 
and  it  pours  with  a  vengeance.  Notwithstanding  this, 
we  have  a  number  of  visitors  in  the  morning,  and  we 
do  not  leave  the  hotel  until  after  twelve  o'clock,  when 
we  have  to  drive  to  the  somewhat  distant  villa  of 
Marshal  Oyama,  where  we  had  promised   to  accept 


an  invitation  for  luncheon  before  we  left  Tokio  three 
weeks  ago  and  which  we  found  awaiting  us  upon  our 
return  to  this  city.  Reaching  the  Oyama  villa  we  are 
received  by  the  Marshal  himself,  who,  though  not 
speaking  any  foreign  language,  plays  the  host  excel- 
lently. He  is  a  portly  man,  well  in  the  sixties,  with  a 
bland  expression,  always  amiable  and  smiling.  His 
wife,  a  graduate  of  Vassar,  is  a  most  attractive  lady, 
who  soon  makes  us  feel  at  home  in  her  house.  Miss 
Oyama,  the  daughter — a  sweet  maiden  of  about  nine- 
teen years,  whom  we  had  already  met  at  the  Bank  of 
Japan  garden  party — again  captures  our  hearts  by  her 
natural,  unassuming  manner;  there  are  a  few  other 
guests,  the  Marshal's  adjutant,  Mr.  Matsuo,  Mr.  Taka- 
hashi,  and  three  or  four  others.  The  luncheon  is  a 
very  homelike  affair.  I  sit  next  to  the  Marchioness, 
Mother  next  to  the  Marshal.  The  conversation  is  as 
between  friends  of  long  standing.  After  luncheon  the 
gentlemen  sit  down  together  in  the  hall,  the  adjutant, 
who  talks  English  quite  well,  acting  as  interpreter. 
Marshal  Oyama  tells  us  something  of  his  war  ex- 
periences, and  at  our  request  he  presents  us  with  his 
signed  photographs.  After  having  been  there  almost 
three  hours  we  find  we  should  leave,  and  part  with 


many  amiable  mutual  expressions,  the  Oyamas,  we  be- 
lieve, having  also  taken  a  liking  to  us.  It  is  still  rain- 
ing, but  we  use  the  rest  of  the  afternoon  to  make  some 
farewell  visits,  and  returning  to  the  hotel  for  dinner, 
we  remain  indoors  during  the  evening. 

Monday,  May  14th. — This  is  to  be  the  last  day  of 
our  stay  in  Tokio.  Early  in  the  forenoon  Mr.  Taka- 
hashi  calls  for  the  party  to  take  them  to  a  loan  exhi- 
bition in  Uyeno  Park,  which  visit  I  cannot  join,  as  I 
have  to  go  to  the  dentist.  The  latter,  a  young  Japa- 
nese, who  has  studied  and  lived  six  years  in  America, 
makes  a  very  good  temporary  filling  of  a  tooth  which 
has  given  me  some  trouble,  and  upon  my  asking  him 
for  the  amount  of  his  fee,  he  answers:  "  I  really  don't 
wish  to  take  any  payment  from  you,  Mr.  Schifif." 
While  I  urge  that  I  cannot  consent  to  this,  and  finally 
force  payment  upon  the  doctor,  I  have  found  all  over 
Japan  that  people  who  have  heard  of  me  are  anxious 
to  render  me  any  service  they  can;  it  is  really  touching 
— the  appreciation  and  gratitude  of  these  people.  Be- 
fore luncheon  I  make  a  farewell  call  upon  Governor 
Matsuo  of  the  Bank  of  Japan  and  then  return  to  the 
hotel.  In  the  afternoon,  while  Mother,  with  Ernst, 
is  looking  after  the  final   preparations   for  the   fare- 


well  dinner  we  expect  to  give  in  the  evening,  I  drive 
to  the  Imperial  palace  and  also  to  the  Crown  Prince's 
palace  to  inscribe  my  name  P.  P.  C.  Then  I  make  a 
visit  to  Mr.  Laughlin,  the  secretary  of  the  American 
Embassy,  with  whom  we  have  become  well  acquainted, 
and  returning  to  the  hotel,  it  is  soon  time  to  prepare 
for  the  receiving  of  our  guests,  it  being  the  custom  in 
Japan  for  guests  to  arrive  at  any  time  within  an  hour 
before  the  time  fixed  by  the  invitation.  The  hour  of 
our  dinner  having  been  stated  as  at  half  after  seven 
o'clock,  the  first  guests  begin  to  arrive  at  seven  o'clock, 
and  by  half  past  seven  every  one  of  the  seventy-two 
guests  is  there.  These  are  as  follows:  Count  Inouye 
(Elder  Statesman),  Count  and  Countess  Matsukata 
(Elder  Statesman),  Marquis  and  Marchioness  Niba- 
shima  (leaders  of  Tokio  society  and  related  to  the 
Imperial  family).  Baron  and  Baroness  Shibusawa  (the 
first  banker  of  Japan  and  Korea),  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Nagasaki  (Master  of  Ceremonies  of  the  Emperor), 
Baron  and  Baroness  Mitsui  (head  of  the  renowned 
Mitsui  family),  Mr.  and  Mrs.  H.  Mitsui  (of  the  same 
family),  Mr.  and  Mrs.  S.  Mitsui  (also  of  this  fam- 
ily), Mr.  and  Mrs.  H.  Matsukata  (son  of  Count 
Matsukata),  Mr.  and  Mrs.  B.  C.  Howard   (general 


agent  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company,  the 
leading  American  in  Japan),  Mr.  Bekkey  (man- 
ager of  the  Yokohama  Specie  Bank),  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Sakatani  (Minister  of  Finance),  Mr.  Kato  (recently 
Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs),  Mr.  Matsuo  (Gov- 
ernor of  the  Bank  of  Japan),  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Taka- 
hashi,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gordon  (of  England),  Mr. 
Masuda  (leading  partner  of  the  Mitsuis),  Mrs.  Scid- 
more  and  her  son  Mr.  Scidmore  (counsel  of  the 
American  Embassy,  his  mother  being  eighty-two  years 
old  and  a  fine  old  lady  of  great  activity;  she  has  lived 
in  Japan  twenty  years),  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Biddle  (of 
Philadelphia,  whom  we  had  become  acquainted  with 
on  the  Manchuria),  Mr.  Mori  (private  secretary  of 
the  Finance  Minister),  Mr.  Miller  (secretary  of  the 
American  Legation),  Mr.  Laughlin,  Sr.  (of  Pitts- 
burg), and  his  son,  Mr.  Irving  Laughlin  (attache  to 
the  American  Embassy,  the  father  being  at  present 
on  a  visit  to  the  son,  having  come  with  us  on  the 
Manchuria),  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sakurada  (friends  of  the 
Takahashis),  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Harold  Brown  (of  Lon- 
don, a  well-known  English  solicitor,  whom  I  had 
already  met  in  New  York  and  of  whom  we  have 
seen  considerable  in  Japan),   Mr.  and   Mrs.   Soyeda 


(President  of  the  Industrial  Bank),  Mr.  Dennison 
(an  American,  diplomatic  adviser  of  the  Japanese 
Foreign  Office),  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chinda  (Vice-Minister 
of  Foreign  Affairs),  Marchioness  Oyama  (who  had  to 
come  without  her  husband,  who  had  been  called  out 
of  town),  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Huntingdon  Wilson  (Ameri- 
can Charge  d'Aflfaires),  Mr.  Ozaki  (Mayor  of  Tokio), 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sonoda  (President  of  the  Nobles' 
Bank),  Mrs.  Morton  Grinnell  (of  New  York,  with 
whom  we  had  become  well  acquainted  on  the  Man- 
churia), Mr.  Fukai  (Secretary  of  the  Bank  of  Ja- 
pan), Mr.  Okura  (the  merchant  prince  of  Japan), 
Baron  and  Baroness  Kaneko  (Japan's  unofficial  repre- 
sentative in  America  during  the  war).  Baron  Komura 
(ex-Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  who  conducted  the 
peace  conference  at  Portsmouth),  Mr.  Hirai  (manager 
of  the  government  railroads),  Mr.  Nakano  (chair- 
man of  the  Tokio  Stock  Exchange),  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Kitashima  (delegate  of  the  Bank  of  Japan  to  accom- 
pany us  during  our  entire  stay  in  Japan),  and  Mr. 
Asaua  (President  of  the  Oriental  Steamship  Com- 
pany). Carte  blanche  having  been  given  by  us  to  the 
manager  of  the  Imperial  Hotel,  the  banquet  hall  had 
been    splendidly    decorated    with    flowers,    American 


and  Japanese  flags,  etc.,  the  dinner  itself  being  very 
creditable.  Mother  was  seated  between  Count  Mat- 
sukata  and  Count  Inouye,  my  own  seat  being  between 
the  Marchioness  Oyama  and  Countess  Matsukata. 
The  guests  appeared  to  be  in  good  spirits  and  time 
passed  quickly.  Toward  the  close  of  the  dinner  I 
make  the  following  address: 

Your  Excellencies,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen: 

It  is  very  good  of  you  to  have  done  Mrs.  Schiff 
and  me  the  honor  to  accept  our  invitation,  so  as  to 
enable  our  friends  and  ourselves  to  meet  you  once  more 
socially  before  we  have  to  return  to  our  own  homes. 
Let  me  thank  you  for  the  beautiful  hospitality  you  have 
shown  us,  for  the  endeavors  some  of  our  particular 
friends,  whom  we  have  the  pleasure  of  having  with 
us  this  evening,  have  made,  to  add  to  the  enjoyment 
and  to  the  interest  of  our  visit,  wherever  we  wend  our 
way.  Now  that  our  visit  draws  to  its  end,  we  leave 
with  much  regret,  and,  I  assure  you,  with  a  feeling  of 
cordial  attachment  for  your  country.  While  here  I 
have  been  asked  repeatedly  what  impressions  we  were 
receiving,  but  not  wishing  to  express  prematurely 
formed  views,  I  rather  sought  until  now  to  avoid  a 


reply,  I  know,  however,  I  shall  be  asked  the  same 
question  as  soon  as  we  land  upon  our  own  shores,  and 
in  parting  from  you  I  think  I  may  tell  you  what  my 
reply  will  be.  I  shall  say  that  the  inherent  character- 
istics of  the  people  of  Japan  appear  to  be  simplicity, 
frugality,  and  loyalty — loyalty  to  their  sovereign,  loy- 
alty to  their  country,  loyalty  to  one  another.  I  shall 
speak  of  your  piety  and  of  the  touching  reverence  the 
young  have  for  the  aged,  of  the  love  with  which  the 
aged  dote  upon  the  young.  I  shall  say  that  in  my  opin- 
ion your  people  derive  their  strength  and  self-reliance 
from  their  early  and  systematic  practice  of  manly 
sports,  developing  themselves  physically  and  at  the 
same  time  becoming  accustomed  to  control  and  to  sub- 
jugate their  passions,  and  from  thirst  for  learning,  edu- 
cation having  been  made  almost  as  accessible  and  as 
free  as  the  air  they  live  in.  I  shall  also  feel  justified 
in  saying  that  Japan  having  just  been  victorious  in  one 
of  the  greatest  wars  in  history,  its  people  have  not  be- 
come overbearing,  but  have  modestly  returned  to  their 
daily  occupations,  evidently  resolved  to  secure  by 
peaceful  means  compensation  for  the  sacrifices  which 
have  been  brought,  by  opening  new  markets  for  their 
commerce   and   industry — willing,   however,   to   share 


these  markets  with  the  other  nations  of  the  world,  and 
that  because  of  this,  Japan  should  have  the  good  will 
of  the  other  nations  and  the  recognition  of  leadership 
in  this  hemisphere,  which  now  of  right  belongs  to  it. 
Thus  I  shall  speak  of  Japan  and  its  people.  You  have 
your  faults;  who  has  not?  You  have  your  curio  deal- 
ers, but  even  these  appear  to  be  willing  to  let  one  keep 
just  enough  to  pay  for  the  return  home.  And  now 
this:  Two  months  ago  we  came  here  to  visit  you  in 
order  to  become  better  acquainted  with  your  country, 
your  people,  and  their  customs.  We  came  as  strangers, 
but  you  received  us  with  open  arms  and  soon  we  were 
strangers  no  longer.  I  know  you  desired  to  show  your 
appreciation  of  the  serxnce  it  was  my  good  fortune  to 
be  able  to  render  your  country  at  a  time  when  it  needed 
friends.  But  now  that  this  account  has  been  so  liber- 
ally balanced  by  you,  may  I  not  express  the  hope,  if  we 
should  come  again,  or  if  it  should  be  our  still  greater 
privilege  to  welcome  any  of  you  in  our  own  homes, 
that  no  other  motive  will  then  be  needed  for  our  hearts 
to  open  to  each  other  than  that  friend  meets  friend! 
By  no  word  in  our  own  language  can  I  so  adequately 
express  what  I,  and  with  me,  no  doubt,  Mrs.  Schiff 
and  our  friends,  would  wish  to  say  in  this  parting  hour 


than  by  your  own  "  Sayanora  " — ''  /'/  it  must  be."  And 
now  I  lift  my  glass  to  your  health  and  to  your  happi- 
ness and  to  the  prosperity  of  your  country — Sayanora! 

The  toast  is  received  most  kindly,  and  at  its  close 
a  Japanese  flag  in  flowers,  which  had  been  placed  over 
the  mantel  in  the  center  of  the  room,  is  electrically 
illuminated,  the  orchestra  striking  up  the  Japanese 
national  hymn,  the  entire  company  rising.  The  ad- 
dress is  then  rendered  again  in  Japanese  by  Mr. 
Fukai  for  the  benefit  of  the  guests  who  do  not  un- 
derstand English.  Count  Matsukata,  who  is  well  in 
the  seventies,  a  most  dignified,  stately  gentleman,  then 
rises  to  make  a  reply  in  Japanese,  eulogizing  me  per- 
sonally, and  dwelling  upon  the  value  to  Japan  of 
American  sympathy  and  friendship,  his  toast  being 
translated  into  English  by  Mr.  Fukai.  The  orchestra 
strikes  up  the  American  national  hymn,  the  entire 
company  again  standing.  After  this  the  dinner  soon 
comes  to  an  end,  Neustadt  and  Budge  first  saying  each 
a  few  words,  and  the  company  adjourns  to  the  recep- 
tion rooms,  the  men  smoking  and  conversing  animat- 
edly, until  gradually  the  guests  take  leave  at  about 
half  past  eleven  o'clock,  all  expressing  pleasure  at  the 


pleasant  evening  spent,  and  assuring  us  that  our  visit 
to  Japan  would  not  be  soon  forgotten.  We  are  all 
specially  impressed  that  our  coming  to  Japan  and  the 
exceptionally  open  manner  in  which  we  were  received 
by  Japanese  society  meant  considerable  for  the  ladies 
of  Japan,  who,  as  we  were  repeatedly  told,  had  before 
never  appeared  so  frequently  in  social  gatherings  until 
our  coming.  The  hour  having  become  late  and  the 
morrow  being  the  day  of  our  departure  at  an  early 
hour,  we  retire  soon  after  the  guests  have  left,  at  about 
midnight. 

Tuesday,  May  I^th. — We  have  to  rise  somewhat 
earlier  than  usual,  as  Mother  and  I,  with  Ernst,  in- 
tend to  visit  Kamakura — where  the  rest  of  the  party 
had  already  been — before  removing  to  Yokohama. 
We  leave  the  hotel  at  half  past  nine  o'clock,  and  reach- 
ing the  railway  station,  we  find  a  number  of  friends 
awaiting  us  to  say  good-by,  among  them  the  Mar- 
chioness Oyama  and  her  daughter,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Soyeda,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sonoda  and  their  daughter, 
Mr.  Okura,  Mr.  Nakano,  the  President  of  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Takahashi,  and 
others.  Soon  we  are  ofT,  and  arrive  at  Kamakura  at 
about  eleven   o'clock.      Here   we   take   jinrikishas   to 


the  temple,  which,  however,  offers  nothing  of  great 
interest.  It  is  the  immense  bronze  Buddha — the  most 
beautiful  in  Japan — which  is  the  great  attraction  of 
Kamakura  and  calls  forth  the  admiration  of  the  visitor. 
This  wonderfully  impressive  image  is  some  fifty  feet 
in  height;  its  face  expresses  the  most  sublime  resig- 
nation and  contentment.  We  remain  a  little  while  in 
contemplation  of  the  great  work  and  then — from  the 
sublime  to  the  ridiculous  being  only  one  step — we  ride 
to  the  hotel  to  take  luncheon.  The  inn  being  located 
close  to  the  seashore,  we  remain  at  the  latter  for  a  short 
time  after  luncheon,  as  the  day  is  bright  and  the  marine 
scenery  attractive.  Toward  three  o'clock  the  jinrik- 
ishas  are  again  resorted  to  and  we  are  taken  to  Mr. 
Takahashi's  country  place,  about  an  hour's  ride,  which 
we  have  promised  to  visit  en  route.  It  is  a  nice  Japa- 
nese villa,  with  a  fine  vista  over  the  ocean,  facing 
Fujiyama,  of  which  one  gets  a  perfect  view  from  the 
front  piazza  of  the  villa,  though  the  atmosphere  being 
somewhat  misty,  we  have  to  content  ourselves  with  the 
outlines  of  the  mountain.  Returning  to  the  railroad 
station,  we  take  the  train  for  Yokohama,  which  we 
reach  shortly  after  five  o'clock,  and  we  join  our 
friends  at  the  Grand  Hotel.    Being  somewhat  fatigued 


from  the  day's  travel,  dinner  is  taken  quietly,  and  we 
retire  for  the  evening  soon  afterwards. 

Wednesday,  May  idth. — I  have  to  go  back  to 
Tokio  early  to-day  to  fulfill  a  number  of  rather  im- 
portant engagements,  Mother  and  the  rest  of  the  party 
preferring  not  to  leave  Yokohama  again  prior  to  our 
embarkation,  and  having  therefore  declined  an  invi- 
tation to  luncheon  from  Count  Inouye;  this  they  now 
regret,  as  they  have  since  learned  that  the  Count  pos- 
sesses one  of  the  most  important  collections  of  old 
China  and  curios,  which,  everybody  says,  would  have 
been  greatly  worth  while  seeing.  Getting  to  Tokio  at 
eleven  o'clock,  I  find  Mr.  Takahashi  at  the  station  to 
take  me  to  the  official  residence  of  the  Prime  Minister, 
Marquis  Saionji,  who,  having  returned  from  Man- 
churia the  previous  day,  wishes  to  get  my  views  on  a 
number  of  subjects,  particularly  of  a  financial  nature, 
before  my  departure  from  Japan  (an  invitation  to 
luncheon,  which  the  Marquis  Saionji  upon  his  return 
extended  to  us  for  the  morrow,  we  had  to  decline  owing 
to  the  proximity  of  our  departure).  I  stay  with  the 
Prime  Minister  for  almost  two  hours,  Mr.  Takahashi 
being  present  and  acting  as  interpreter,  Mr.  Sakatani, 
the  Minister  of  Finance,  also  coming  in  later  by  invi- 


tation,  to  join  the  conference.  Marquis  Saionji  assures 
me  that  the  views  to  which  I  give  expression  will 
go  far  to  mold  his  own — particularly  in  regard  to  the 
financing  of  the  Manchurian  Railway  and  the  manner 
of  its  control  and  operation  by  Japan  and  China. 
At  the  close  of  the  conference  the  Marquis  orders  some 
champagne  to  be  brought  in,  and  he  drinks  to  a  pleas- 
ant homeward  journey  of  our  party,  after  which  I 
leave  the  residence  of  the  Prime  Minister  and  drive 
with  Mr.  Takahashi  to  Count  Inouye's,  where  we  are 
expected  for  luncheon.  Here  I  find  the  Marquis  Ito, 
who  has  come  on  purpose  from  his  distant  country 
seat  to  meet  me,  and  also  Count  Matsukata,  Baron 
Iwasaki,  Baron  Shibusawa,  Mr.  Sakatani,  Mr.  Soye- 
da.  Baron  Mitsui,  and  a  number  of  other  gentlemen. 
Count  Inouye  takes  particular  pleasure  to  display  at 
the  luncheon  table  some  of  his  rarest  old  Chinese  and 
Japanese  porcelains,  and  expresses  much  regret  that 
he  cannot  show  these  and  other  rare  things  he  pos- 
sesses to  the  ladies,  but,  in  true  Japanese  liberality, 
he  hands  me  one  of  his  fine  pieces  to  take  to  Mother 
as  a  souvenir.  After  luncheon  Marquis  Ito  asks  me 
to  retire  with  him  for  a  little  while,  as  he  wishes  to 
learn  something  of  the  impressions  I  had  received  in 


Korea,  of  which  he  is  the  resident-general,  and  the  des- 
tiny of  which  country  is  now  in  his  hands,  and  also 
to  make  me  acquainted  with  his  own  views  upon  divers 
matters,  especially  the  Manchurian  Railway  and  the 
policy  of  Japan  in  the  new  lands  and  markets  which 
have  come  under  its  influence.  The  old  statesman  is 
full  of  youthful  vigor,  most  liberal  and  advanced  in 
his  views,  and  particularly  impressive  when  he  ex- 
presses himself  upon  the  imperative  necessity  that 
Japan  maintain  to  the  furthest  its  pledge  of  the 
"  open  door "  in  Korea  and  Manchuria.  He  also 
speaks  of  the  relations  between  China  and  Japan,  in 
which  he  foresees  no  difficulties,  except  that  China, 
for  the  present,  appears  unwilling  to  follow  Japan  in 
its  liberal  policy  toward  the  commerce  of  other  na- 
tions, but  he  expresses  the  belief  that  this  in  time  will 
adjust  itself.  Again  joining  the  other  company,  the 
reflection  forces  itself  upon  me  how  fortunate  I  am 
to  meet  together  Count  Inouye,  Count  Matsukata,  and 
Marquis  Ito,  the  triumvirate  of  creators  of  modern 
Japan,  and  to  be  honored  with  their  confidences. 
Upon  leaving  to  return  to  Yokohama,  I  first  drive  to 
the  German  Embassy  to  visit  Baron  von  Mumm,  the 
new  ambassador,  who  has  just  been  transferred  from 


Pekin  to  Tokio,  and  who  had  visited  me  in  New  York 
when  he  passed  through  some  four  years  ago.  The 
ambassador  receives  me  most  cordially,  and  we  talk 
not  only  of  far  Eastern  conditions,  but  also  of  our 
beloved  common  native  town,  Frankfort  on  the  Main. 
I  can,  however,  not  stay  very  long,  as  I  have  to  catch 
my  train,  and  at  five  o'clock  I  find  myself  back  in 
Yokohama,  Mother  having  spent  the  day  completing 
her  purchases.  The  evening  is  spent  at  the  Oriental 
Hotel,  where  Budge  and  Neustadt  have  invited  us  for 
a  sumptuous  farewell  dinner  among  ourselves. 

Thursday,  May  IJth. — This  being  the  last  full  day 
in  Japan,  a  great  many  minor  matters  have  to  be  at- 
tended to,  which  occupy  most  of  the  day.  In  the  af- 
ternoon Mother  and  I  go  to  take  tea  with  old  Mrs. 
Scidmore,  who,  notwithstanding  her  eighty-two  years, 
makes  a  very  entertaining  hostess,  and  having  resided 
here  for  over  twenty  years,  she  tells  us  much  of  interest 
about  the  American  colony,  both  in  Yokohama  and 
Tokio.  We  have  promised  to  spend  the  last  evening 
in  Japan  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  B.  C.  Howard,  agent  for 
the  Pacific  Mail,  and  one  of  the  most  respected  for- 
eign residents  of  Yokohama.  We  meet  there  at  dinner 
Mr.    Koopman,    representative   of   the    Standard    Oil 


Company,  and  his  daughter;  also  Consul-General  and 
Mrs.  Miller,  very  pleasant  people,  the  evening  passing 
very  sociably. 

Friday,  May  l8th. — The  day  of  our  departure 
from  Japan  has  come.  We  leave  behind  us  eight  most 
interesting  and  instructive  weeks.  We  have  been  re- 
ceived in  Japan  probably  with  greater  cordiality  than 
almost  any  foreigners  who  have  come  here  in  recent 
years;  we  have  made  a  large  number  of  friends  and 
acquaintances,  through  whom  we  have  learned  much 
of  life  and  conditions  in  this  wonderful  land.  Now 
time  is  up  and  we  are  glad  to  return  to  the  dear  ones 
whom  we  have  left  behind  in  our  own  beloved  coun- 
try. Visitors  come  in  early  to  say  good-by,  and  a  con- 
siderable number  await  us  at  the  pier  and  on  the 
Empress  of  Japan,  which  is  to  carry  us  across  the  Pa- 
cific. Mr.  and  Mrs.  Takahashi  and  members  of  their 
household  have  come  to  bring  their  young  daughter 
Wakiko,  of  whom  we  are  to  have  charge  for  the  next 
two  years,  the  girl  being  desirous  of  getting  an  Ameri- 
can education.  She  is  just  fifteen  years  old,  knows 
no  English  or  other  foreign  language,  and  is  a  typical 
Japanese  maiden.  Mother  believes  it  somewhat  of  a 
responsibility  we  are  undertaking  in  assuming  charge 


of  the  girl  and  her  education,  but  Mr.  Takahashi  has 
shown  himself  so  good  a  friend,  and  it  appears  so 
tempting  a  problem  to  introduce  this  young  Japanese 
maiden  into  a  new  world  of  speech  and  thought,  that 
we  have  decided  to  endeavor  to  assume  the  responsi- 
bility. Among  others  who  have  come  to  say  good-by 
are  Count  Inouye,  Baron  Shibusawa,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Biddle,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Howard,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gordon, 
Mr.  Laughlin,  on  behalf  of  the  American  Embassy; 
Mr.  Beckey,  manager  of  the  Yokohama  Specie  Bank; 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Soyeda  and  their  daughter,  Mr.  Mori, 
Mr.  Fukai,  Mr.  Kitashima,  and  many  others,  among 
whom  is  also  the  Governor  of  Yokohama  province. 
Telegrams  are  received  from  almost  everyone  we  know 
in  Tokio,  also  flowers  in  great  profusion,  many  of  the 
state  ministers  sending  a  goodly  supply.  Punctually 
at  twelve  o'clock  the  steamer  weighs  anchor  and  amid 
cheers  we  are  off  upon  our  journey  homeward  bound. 
The  boat  is  pleasant,  more  like  a  very  large  yacht; 
its  rooms  are  large  and  comfortable,  and,  if  the  weather 
remains  favorable,  we  shall  be  satisfied  with  her;  for 
an  agitated  sea  she  appears  somewhat  small  in  com- 
parison with  the  big  steady  Manchuria,  upon  which 
we  came  hither.     The  boat  is  very  full  and  we  find 


some  acquaintances  among  the  passengers.  As  most 
of  our  party  are  somewhat  fatigued,  especially  Mother, 
who  is  just  beginning  to  feel  the  considerable  strain 
of  our  many  doings  during  our  stay  in  Japan,  we 
retire  after  a  luncheon  for  a  "nappy"  afternoon,  to 
meet  later  at  the  dinner  table.  No  one  surrenders 
to  the  wiles  of  the  ocean,  all  coming  to  the  evening 
meal  and  appearing  to  enjoy  it,  after  which  we  soon 
seek  the  comforts  of  our  bunks. 

Saturday,  May  IQth,  to  Monday,  May  28th. — 
Nothing  eventful  having  happened,  it  is  needless  to 
record  daily  our  doings  and  experiences  on  board 
the  Empress  of  Japan.  The  journey  across  the  Pa- 
cific, which  in  these  northern  waters  is  said  to  be  at 
all  seasons  wet  and  unpleasant,  has  been  quite  satis- 
factory. While  we  did  not  have  very  much  sunshine, 
one  could  be  on  deck  every  day,  and,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  two  or  three  days,  when  the  sea  was  somewhat 
choppy,  the  journey  was  quite  smooth.  The  boat  be- 
haved admirably,  going  at  all  times  very  steady,  while 
the  food  and  general  arrangements  were  also  quite 
satisfactory.  The  company  on  board  was  rather  un- 
interesting and  there  was  little  social  life.  My  own 
daily  round  consisted  in  breakfast  at  nine  o'clock,  a 


visit  to  Mother  in  her  cabin  for  a  morning  chat,  an 
hour's  walk  on  deck,  and  reading  until  luncheon  at  half 
past  one  o'clock.  Then  another  short  walk,  a  little  nap, 
reading  and  writing  until  after  six  o'clock,  another 
hour's  walk,  and  dinner  at  half  past  seven  o'clock. 
Toward  nine  o'clock  a  game  of  bridge  with  Budge, 
Neustadt,  and  Ernst  Schifif,  lasting  about  two  hours, 
and  to  bed  not  far  from  midnight.  This  was  the  daily 
routine.  We  expect  to  reach  Vancouver  to-morrow, 
Tuesday,  May  the  29th,  and  shall  then  have  completed 
our  interesting  journey  to  the  Far  East.  It  has  been 
most  satisfactory  in  every  respect,  as  the  foregoing 
record  amply  proves.  I  am  truly  grateful  that  every- 
thing has  passed  off  so  smoothly  and  that  we  are  again 
about  to  reach  the  North  American  continent  in  per- 
fect health  and  fine  spirits. 

Tuesday,  May  2Qth. — On  rising  in  the  morning 
land  is  in  sight,  and  we  are  rapidly  nearing  Victoria, 
B.  C,  where  the  steamer  is  to  make  its  first  landing. 
Before  docking  we  are  delayed  for  some  little  time 
to  pass  the  quarantine  inspection,  which  is  particularly 
strict  against  Japanese  and  Chinese  immigrants,  of 
whom  we  have  quite  a  number  on  board,  not  to  speak 
of   Hindoos,   of  whom   there   are   likewise   a   number 


among  the  steerage  passengers.  It  is  a  strange  pic- 
ture to  see  these  different  races  crowded  together  upon 
the  lower  decks  preparatory  to  the  inspection  by  the 
authorities.  After  some  time  this  inspection  is  fin- 
ished, and  we  soon  make  fast  to  the  dock,  where  a 
small  number  of  passengers  disembark.  The  agent  of 
the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Company  comes  on 
board  to  inform  me  that  two  private  cars  are  awaiting 
our  party  at  Vancouver  and  that  all  arrangements  have 
been  made  to  move  us  at  our  convenience  promptly 
over  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway.  I  am  also  visited 
by  the  agent  of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Com- 
pany, who  offers  his  services,  which  I  utilize  by  send- 
ing a  number  of  telegrams  and  cable  messages  announc- 
ing our  safe  arrival  to  children,  relatives,  and  friends. 
Soon  the  steamer  is  en  route  again  for  Vancouver,  a 
distance  of  some  six  hours  from  Victoria.  It  is  a 
beautiful  sail,  the  weather  being  perfect,  and  we  reach 
Vancouver  at  about  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  We 
repair  to  the  Hotel  Vancouver,  a  very  satisfactory 
hostelry,  where  it  is  our  intention  to  remain  until  the 
following  evening.  We  are  made  very  happy  by 
letters  from  our  children  and  beloved  ones  in  New 
York,    reporting   upon    the   events   of   several    weeks, 


and  we  also  receive  telegrams  advising  us  that  all 
are  in  good  health  and  condition.  The  hour  has 
become  somewhat  late,  and,  after  taking  dinner,  we 
retire. 

Wednesday,  May  30th. — This  is  the  feast  of  Pen- 
tecost, but  so  far  away  from  home  the  day  is  unfor- 
tunately wanting  in  impressiveness.  We  are  told  that 
the  park  of  the  town  is  worth  while  visiting,  and  we 
leave  the  hotel  soon  after  breakfast  for  a  drive  into 
the  park.  The  latter  occupies  an  island,  connected  by 
a  short  bridge  with  the  town,  and  while  this  park  is 
somewhat  primitive,  yet  it  is  quite  attractive,  with  its 
tall  trees  and  fine  vistas  upon  the  bay.  Ernst  SchiflF 
and  I  leave  the  carriages  and  the  party  about  midway 
in  the  park,  the  party  desiring  to  drive  back,  while 
Ernst  and  I  walk  home,  a  distance  of  some  three  miles. 
We  reach  the  hotel  in  time  for  luncheon,  after  which 
the  preparations  for  our  departure  are  made.  We 
leave  at  five  o'clock  for  the  railroad  station,  where  we 
find  two  very  commodious  private  cars,  sent  by  the 
Union  Pacific  Railroad  Company,  awaiting  us,  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Hudson,  one  of  the  trusted  and  ex- 
perienced superintendents  of  the  dining  service  of  the 
Union   Pacific  Company,  who  had   taken  charge  of 


us  on  our  outward  journey.  We  make  ourselves  com- 
fortable, and  soon  are  moving  eastward.  The  evening 
advances  rapidly,  but  we  can  yet  enjoy  some  pleasant 
scenery  before  it  gets  dark.  Dinner  is  served  toward 
eight  o'clock,  and  later  a  game  of  bridge  is  indulged 
in;  before  long  it  is  time  to  retire. 

Thursday,  May  J  1st. — Upon  rising  we  find  our- 
selves in  the  midst  of  the  grandest  mountain  scenery. 
The  railroad  passes  one  picturesque  canyon  after  the 
other,  the  snow-capped  giants,  the  rushing  streams 
widening  at  places  into  large  lakes,  forming  a  con- 
tinuously changing,  impressive  picture.  We  pass 
Mount  Donald,  Mount  Stephen,  then  the  celebrated 
glacier  at  Glacier  Station,  and,  as  evening  comes  upon 
us,  a  day  of  the  most  wonderful  scenic  effects  has  been 
enjoyed.  Our  train  is,  however,  several  hours  behind 
time,  and  as  it  is  not  expected  to  reach  "  Banff,"  where 
we  intend  to  remain  for  two  days,  until  two  o'clock 
in  the  morning  (instead  of  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening), 
we  direct  our  cars  to  be  detached  upon  the  train's  ar- 
rival at  Banff,  and  retire  for  the  night. 

Friday,  June  1st. — Here  we  are  at  Banff  Station, 
and,  after  taking  breakfast  on  the  cars,  we  repair  to 
the  Banff  Springs  Hotel,  one  of  the  many  inns  the 


Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Company  has  planted  along 
its  line  from  Vancouver  to  Montreal,  and  all  of  which 
seem  to  be  kept  in  a  superior  manner.  Banfif  is  a  beau- 
tifully situated  mountain  resort,  the  surrounding  snow- 
capped mountains,  the  Bow  and  Spray  rivers,  which 
unite  here,  the  former  leaping  into  the  latter  over 
steep  rocks  and  thus  forming  a  picturesque  waterfall, 
make  this  a  very  beautiful  and  attractive  spot.  The 
Canadian  Government  has  reserved  this  entire  area 
as  a  national  park  and  is  doing  considerable  to  make 
accessible  the  natural  beauties  of  the  park.  After 
luncheon  we  take  carriages  and  drive  into  the  sur- 
rounding country.  We  visit  the  buffalo  herd,  consist- 
ing of  some  fifty  of  these  now  almost  extinct  animals, 
mostly  very  large  and  fine  specimens.  We  also  visit 
the  Sulphur  Water  Cave,  said  to  demonstrate  in  its 
formation  how  geysers  develop.  A  long  subterranean 
passage  leads  to  a  cave  into  which  a  mild  sulphur 
water  wells  from  the  earth,  the  cave  itself  receiving 
its  light  and  ventilation  from  a  hole  in  the  dome- 
shaped  top,  which  opening,  we  are  told,  has  been  made 
by  the  gases  and  water  forcing  themselves  through,  and 
in  years  gone  by  having  been  the  outlet  of  a  geyser. 
Having  enjoyed  our  outing  to  the  full,  we  return  to 


the  hotel  toward  evening,  and  with  dinner,  conversa- 
tion, and  reading  the  day  is  soon  at  an  end. 

Saturday,  June  2d. — This  we  decide  to  make  a  day 
of  perfect  rest.  We  take  a  short  walk  in  the  morning 
and  a  somewhat  longer  one  in  the  afternoon.  Toward 
evening  Otto  Schifif,  who  several  weeks  ago  had  come 
from  England  to  visit  Canada  on  business  matters, 
arrives  to  meet  us  and  to  join  us  on  our  journey  East; 
he  brings  us  welcome  news  from  New  York,  which 
he  passed  through  some  three  weeks  ago.  The  even- 
ing passes  in  conversation  with  the  newcomer,  and,  as 
is  now  the  habit,  a  game  of  bridge  is  indulged  in 
before  we  retire. 

Sunday,  June  jd. — Our  stay  at  peaceful  Banff  is  at 
an  end.  Much  recreated  by  the  two  days'  idyllic  rest, 
we  return  to  our  cars  at  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing and  have  them  attached  to  the  "  Imperial  Limited  " 
en  route  for  Montreal.  Shortly  after  leaving  Banff 
we  pass  out  of  the  mountain  region  and  emerge  upon 
the  great  plain,  which  extends  some  fifteen  hundred 
miles  to  Lake  Superior.  We  pass  many  towns,  vil- 
lages, and  hamlets,  all  sprung  up  quite  recently,  but 
nothing  of  special  interest  ofTers  itself.  The  day  is 
passed  with  reading,  talking,  and  a  bit  of  bridge  play- 


ing,  not  to  speak  of  the  meals,  which  form  the  mile- 
stones in  the  daily  routine  of  railroad  travel,  and,  being 
ten  at  table,  always  form  a  pleasant  and  entertaining 
gathering.  In  this  northern  country  darkness  at  this 
time  of  the  year  sets  in  very  late,  and  the  evening  being 
short,  before  we  are  aware  of  it  the  hour  to  retire  has 
arrived. 

Monday,  June  4th. — This  is  a  quiet,  uneventful 
day.  We  are  traversing  the  wide,  unbroken,  and  to 
a  great  extent  yet  uncultivated  prairies  of  Western 
Canada,  in  the  forenoon  the  Province  of  Alberta,  and 
Manitoba  in  the  afternoon.  It  is  worth  while  to  ob- 
serve the  many  new  hamlets  and  villages  springing 
up  along  the  line  of  the  railroad  and  which  so  point- 
edly mark  the  march  of  empire  and  civilization.  To 
me  in  particular  this  development  is  fascinating. 
Having  been,  to  some  extent,  connected  some  twenty 
years  ago  with  the  early  financing  of  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Railway,  over  which  we  are  traveling,  and 
having  at  that  time  frequently  had  to  hear  the  prophecy 
from  pessimistic  opponents  of  the  enterprise  that  the 
principal  traffic  of  the  road  would  be  snow  and  ice, 
I  again  become  impressed,  as  I  have  been  so  often  be- 
fore, that  there  is  no  room  for  the  pessimist  and  cheap 


prophet  on  this  great  continent,  the  hope  and  the  fu- 
ture of  the  millions  who,  driven  from  the  narrow- 
ness of  the  Old  World,  are  turning  the  North  Amer- 
ican wilderness  into  God's  paradise,  a  happy  haven 
for  a  goodly  part  of  the  human  race.  We  reach 
Winnipeg  toward  evening,  and  soon  the  day  is  at 
an  end. 

Tuesday,  June  jth. — This  morning  finds  us  at  Fort 
William,  near  the  northwesterly  corner  of  Lake  Su- 
perior. The  station  master  brings  the  mail,  which  has 
been  sent  him  for  us  from  New  York,  and  we  are  made 
happy  with  the  good  reports  the  letters  convey.  Soon 
we  are  gliding  along  the  north  shore  of  Superior.  It 
is  not  only  a  fine  view  this  expanse  of  the  big  lake 
with  its  many  islets  at  our  feet,  but  we  also  admire 
the  wonderful  construction  of  the  railroad,  which  is 
literally  hewn  into  the  rocky  border  of  the  lake,  fol- 
lowing like  a  snake  its  many  windings.  This  goes  on 
for  hours,  the  lake  scenery  continually  changing  and 
opening  new,  fine  vistas.  Interest  is  thus  kept  alive 
almost  the  entire  day,  and  before  we  are  aware  of  it 
the  time  has  come  for  the  evening  meal.  This  being 
the  birthday  of  our  son  Mortimer,  the  entire  party 
gladly  embraces  the  opportunity  to  empty  a  glass  of 


champagne  to  his  health  and  happiness;  another  day 
has  gone  by. 

Wednesday,  June  6th. — As  we  expect  to  reach 
Montreal  toward  evening,  the  day  suffers  somewhat 
in  sociability,  everybody  being  on  the  qui  vive  for 
the  arrival.  A  little  reading,  some  talking,  a  couple 
of  hours'  bridge  playing  in  the  afternoon,  and  we  get 
to  Ottawa,  the  capital  of  the  Dominion.  We  get  a 
good  view  of  the  Parliament  buildings,  picturesquely 
located  on  a  high  blufif,  overlooking  the  river.  On  we 
pass  through  old  Canada,  and,  as  evening  arrives,  we 
reach  Montreal,  where  we  have  decided  to  remain  for 
a  day  before  we  proceed  to  New  York,  completing  our 
journey.  Consequently,  we  leave  our  cars  and  drive 
to  the  Place  Viger  Hotel,  take  dinner,  and  after  a 
short  walk,  we  retire  for  the  night. 

Thursday,  June  //A.— Having  been  four  days  on 
the  rail,  the  comforts  of  a  steady  bed  and  a  refreshing 
bath  are  much  enjoyed  by  all.  To  start  the  stay  in  the 
larger  town  properly  the  ladies  decide  to  go  on  a  shop- 
ping expedition,  and  during  their  exploration  of  the 
bargain  counters,  I  visit  Mr.  Clouston,  the  general 
manager  of  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  an  old  business 
friend,  who  receives  me  most  cordially  and  explains 


many  interesting  matters  in  connection  with  Canadian 
banking.  I  then  call  upon  Sir  Thomas  Shaugnessie, 
the  President  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Com- 
pany, to  express  appreciation  of  the  courtesies  received 
from  his  company  in  the  transportation  of  our  cars 
from  Vancouver  to  Montreal.  Remaining  with  Sir 
Thomas  for  some  time  we  talk  of  olden  times  and 
events  during  the  infancy  of  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway,  as  well  as  of  the  men  who  built  up  this  great 
system,  which  has  contributed  so  much  toward  the 
political  consolidation  and  strength  of  the  Dominion, 
and  at  the  same  time  has  so  greatly  helped  to  make  it 
prosperous.  Leaving  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
offices  I  return  to  the  hotel  to  call  for  Mother,  Otto, 
and  Ernst  Schifif  to  drive  to  the  residence  of  Sir  Wil- 
liam Van  Home,  from  whom  we  had  accepted  an 
invitation  for  luncheon.  Sir  William  Van  Home, 
the  early  general  manager  of  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway,  later  its  vice-president,  then  president,  and 
now  chairman  of  the  board  of  directors,  is  a  man  of 
high  artistic  taste.  He  has  built  a  spacious  residence 
filled  with  art  treasures,  his  paintings  including  fine 
examples  of  the  old  masters  and  also  of  the  early  Eng- 
lish school.     He  is,  moreover,  an  amateur  painter  of 


no  mean  caliber,  some  of  the  landscapes  he  has  painted 
showing  considerable  originality  and  strength  of  color. 
His  collections  of  Japanese  and  Chinese  curios,  as  well 
as  porcelains,  include  many  exquisite  examples,  and  it 
is  a  matter  of  much  regret  to  us  that  we  have  not  the 
time  to  give  these  collections  more  than  a  cursory  in- 
spection before  and  after  luncheon.  At  the  latter  we 
meet  Lady  Van  Home,  the  son  and  daughter  of  the 
house,  and  also  Sir  Thomas  Shaugnessie.  We  leave 
toward  four  o'clock  and  call  at  the  hotel  for  the  other 
members  of  our  party  to  drive  to  the  Victoria  Hospital, 
which  Mr.  Clouston  (of  the  Bank  of  Montreal),  one  of 
the  hospital's  active  directors,  has  invited  us  to  inspect. 
The  Victoria  Hospital  is  located  upon  an  elevation 
at  the  foot  of  Mount  Royal  Park  in  a  square  contain- 
ing twenty-seven  acres,  was  constructed  at  the  expense 
of  Lord  Mountstephen  and  Lord  Strathcona,  has  been 
very  liberally  endowed  by  these  men — sufficient  to 
support  its  entire  annual  expenditures — and  presented 
by  them  to  the  city.  It  contains  300  beds,  a  training 
school  for  nurses,  and  is  equipped  in  the  most  approved 
modern  manner.  To  have  the  means,  the  heart,  and 
the  public  spirit  to  carry  out  so  beneficent  an  under- 
taking must  in  itself  be  a  great  happiness  and  a  blessing 


both  to  the  generous  givers — with  whom  I  have  the 
satisfaction  to  be  personally  acquainted,  especially 
with  Lord  Mountstephen — and  cannot  but  serve  as  a 
stimulus  to  others  to  be  public-spirited  and  to  do  good. 
From  the  hospital  we  drive  into  Mount  Royal  Park, 
which  in  its  fresh  green  verdure  looks  most  beautiful. 
We  have  a  fine  view  from  the  observatory  terrace,  over- 
looking the  city  and  its  surroundings.  The  afternoon 
having  meantime  far  advanced,  we  return  to  the  hotel 
to  get  ready  for  our  departure,  and  we  find  ourselves 
again  on  board  of  our  cars  at  half  past  seven  o'clock, 
sitting  down  to  dinner  while  the  train  moves  out  of 
the  station.  This  being  the  parting  meal  before  our 
expected  arrival  at  New  York  in  the  early  morning, 
Neustadt  and  Budge  both  wax  eloquent,  and  in  warm 
sentiments  express  their  appreciation  of  Mother's  and 
my  own  hospitality  and  of  all  the  many  interesting 
sights  and  attentions  we  have  procured  for  them  dur- 
ing the  three  and  a  half  months'  journey,  now  so  hap- 
pily ended,  by  God's  mercy,  in  good  health  and  with- 
out any  mishap.  Dinner  over,  the  ladies  retire  to 
prepare  for  an  early  rise,  and  soon  we  have  all  sought, 
for  the  last  time,  our  beds  before  we  come  once  more 
into  our  own  home,  as  we  hope  to  do  to-morrow. 


Friday,  June  8th. — We  rise  early  and  take  a  last 
breakfast  upon  the  cars,  which  have  brought  us  so 
comfortably  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic.  At 
about  eight  o'clock  the  train  rolls  into  the  Grand 
Central  Station  and  our  long  journey  is  ended.  Felix, 
Mortimer,  and  Adele  are  awaiting  us  with  other 
friends  at  the  station,  and  we  are  as  happy  to  see  the 
dear  faces  again  as  they  are  to  see  us.  Leaving  the 
station  we  drive  to  the  boat  at  Forty-second  Street  and 
North  River,  which  conveys  us  to  the  Atlantic  High- 
lands, where  we  take  the  train  for  Seabright.  Arriv- 
ing at  Seabright  shortly  after  eleven  o'clock,  we  find 
Frieda,  Carola,  Frederick,  and  Gerald  (and  also  Eda 
Loeb)  awaiting  us,  all  smiles  like  ourselves;  we  are 
rapidly  driven  to  our  own  dear  country  home,  where 
Baby  Paul  likewise  welcomes  us  home.  "  East  or 
west,  home  is  best.  "  Thus  is  ended  our  journey  to 
the  "  Far  East,"  covering  20,000  miles  during  an  ab- 
sence of  fourteen  weeks.  Successful  from  start  to  fin- 
ish, we  are  grateful  to  God  for  the  good  health  all  of 
us  have  enjoyed  throughout,  for  having  indeed  blessed 
"  our  going  out  and  our  coming  in."  It  has  been  the 
most  interesting  episode  of  our  lives,  to  which  we  hope 
to  be  permitted  to  look  back  for  many  years  to  come. 


and  when  we  have  passed  away,  perhaps  this  record 
of  the  enjoyable  journey  of  the  parents  and  grand- 
parents may  stimulate  the  interest  of  children  and 
grandchildren  in  a  civilization  which  is  now  so  rap- 
idly changing,  and  in  countries  destined  to  play  a  most 
important  role  in  history  yet  unwritten. 


PRINTED    BY 

THE    NEW    YORK    CO-OPERATIVE    SOCIETY 

358    FIFTH    AVENUE,    NEW    YORK 


L  006  160  033  4 


UC  SOUTHERN  REGIIMAl  LIBRARY  FACILin 


D    000  677  963    1 


